Sayajin

PM sent on injectors! -Sayajin

FMIC Located. Thx. Still REALLY need this other stuff! -Sayajin

How about the underhood snorkel? You know the little black thing that goes from under the hood into the airbox. -Sayajin

I am interested in just the snorkel portion. PM me a price please! -Sayajin

Still have the stock RAM Air Intake piece? You know the black plastic thing that runs under the hood into the airbox? If so I want it! -Sayajin

Still have the stock RAM Air Intake piece? You know the black plastic thing that runs under the hood into the airbox? If so I want it! -Sayajin

Hey guys. Well I have been reading multiple posts on multiple boards about these air filter options and still have not REALLY found a definite answer. What I am trying to decide is do I buy the ARC Induction Box or go with 2x Cone Style Air Filters? Now I know from my research that the main concern people have with the cone style filters is heat soak. However, I also read that as long as you have some type of heat sheild made up for it they work perfectly. Conversly, I have ALWAYS heard excellent things about the ARC intake box. That is until I started getting into GTR's. I have heard many people say that the induction box is only good for about 350rkw. I am just trying to figure out what route to go with. I mean do I go with the ARC Induction as I had planned? Or go with a Cone style filter and just have a heat sheild made? I am looking to put dowm about 400-450rkw in my GTR33. Any help you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated. -Sayajin

Interested in Catch Can. PM Sent. -Sayajin

Fc-Datalogit located. Thx. Keep it coming! -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am in the process of doing a pretty decent build on my GTR33 and I consequently need a bunch of parts. Before I went out and bought everything new, I figured I would see if the guys on the boards had the parts slightly used to get a better price on them so I can buy more of them. lol. I am looking to get most of this stuff pretty quickly so if you have it let me know and I will buy it ASAP. Thx. Anyway, here is a list of all of the stuff which I need for my build. While as I stated above, I would really prefer to get this stuff used in good to mint condition, if you have it new for a good price let me know and I will buy that too. Thx guys. I dont really expect to get all of this used, but I figured it doesnt hurt to try! Well here is the list: Engine: Greddy Front Extension DP Nismo or Greddy Inlet Plenum ARC Induction Box Kit HKS SSQV BOV Tomei PonCam 260/260 HKS or Tomei Cam Gears N1 Oil Pump Upgraded Oil Sending Unit Upgraded Pistons/Rods (?) Upgraded Rod Bolts Tensioner Idler Pulley Fuel System: Nismo, SARD(prefer) or Apexi Fuel Pump 770CC Injections Z32 AFM X2 w/ plugs and wires Electronics: FC Datalogit Greddy Profec B Boost Controller Greddy Turbo Timer AEM Wideband Cooling: Upgraded Race FMIC (open to brands) Koyo, Fluidyne, or Greddy Radiator Nismo Thermostat Greddy or HKS or ARC Oil Cooler w/ Relocate Interior: Nismo Gauge Cluster Thanks guys. -Sayajin

PM sent on Profec B -Sayajin

Hey guys. I know that recently HKS released a new version of the 2530's that have more potential power. I am in the process of possibly buying a set of 2530's from a friend however I want to make sure that they are the second version before I do. If anyone could tell me any visual differences or markings that I can look for to ensure that these are indeed V2 ones that I am buying and not V1 then I would greatly appreciate it! Also please bear in mind that I do not have a V1 and V2 sitting side by side to directly compare, so please dont say bigger wheel or something like that. Thanks for all the help guys. -Sayajin

To make a long explaination short. The VIN system you are using is for US Vin's. The JPN vin system is completely different as there is no such thing as a VIN number in JPN. They use Chasis codes over there. Hence, the system you are trying to use will not work. Post your chasis code up here and when I get home I will put it into the Nissan FAST software and tell you about the car. -Sayajin

So I just got off the phone with ATS/Carbonetics and they tell me that I SHOULD NOT use the Nismo slave cylinder with their clutch. From what they tell me, it will not work properly and will actually sacrifice performance. I had no idea of this as I had always heard the upgrade was a good thing. Any opinions? On a side note, with ATS/Carbonetics you actually DO the pull to push conversion. They send you everything you need in the box in order to do it! I had NO IDEA of this until I talked to the guy again. -Sayajin

Hey guys. Well I FINALLY got in my ATS/Carbonetics Clutch, however I have not received my Nismo slave cylinder yet. I am wondering how difficult is it to change out a slave cylinder? I mean can I get my shop to change out the clutch now and then I install the Nismo slave cylinder at the house myself in a few days? I would not think it is a very difficult job, however I could of course be wrong as I don’t really know what is necessary to do it. Any info you guys can offer would be greatly appreciated. Also if it is indeed a DIY job, if you guys can give quick instructions I would appreciate that as well. Thx a lot. -Sayajin

Hey guys. Well I was initially looking at the Greddy T517z's for my twin turbo setup, but after some more research I discovered that this turbo will not be sufficient for my HP goals so I have to go back to the drawing board. I have been searching on the boards for info however not many people are looking to do what I am. Either they want 600+WHP for drag, or a 500+ Street Setup. Also I have looked at the turbo chart over and over, however as that only talks about HP and not responsiveness, that is not sufficient information. Here is what I am looking for: A Twin Turbo bolt on setup capable of 600WHP however as I am looking for a street setup I also need it to be as responsive as possible with the least amount of lag. Now of course I know that with increased power comes increased lag, however I am trying to find out what turbo will be the ideal compromise. I also plan on keeping the stock 2.6L and not going stroked. I will however, have all of the necessary supporting mods. Since I am keeping the 2.6L that means I need a turbo that is also not prone to shuffle, which means that the HKS GT-RS is out of the questions as they are infamous for shuffle. Other than that I am open to suggestions. Also before anyone says to switch to a single setup, I have considered this and decided to stay with the twins. Now please keep in mind that this will be a street setup and not a drag setup when you make your suggestions. Thanks a lot for all of the help guys. -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am in the process now of deciding between three different turbo options. The 2530's which everyone uses, the HKS RS turbos, and the Greddy T517Z's w/ .8cm housing. After doing much research and deliberation I had decided on the T517Z's for a few reasons. While I realize they are oil cooled and not water cooled, with a proper oil cooling setup, you should not have any issues with them. Also not being ball bearing you eliminate turbo shuffle, can maintain the low mount manifold, and have a bit more power than the 2530s. Anyway, my goal is 600WHP or 448KW, whichever measurement you use. When reading up on the UK boards about the Greddy T517Z's the guys over there are making an EASY 600+WHP with the proper supporting mods. However reading the AU boards I see guys struggling to get into the 530+ WHP range. I am just trying to figure out why the discrepancy? I mean they are the same turbos, so why the drastic difference. Also let me say I am not talking about 1 or 2 guys, I mean the majority of the people using the Greddy T517Z's. Hell in the UK they look at these things like they are the truth, superior to the HKS 2530s. I am just trying to find out what the real deal is before I invest in a turbo setup that will not get me to my goals. Any information you guys can provide will be greatly appreciated. Thx. -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am in the process of changing my broken stock clutch out for a Carbonetics/ATS Across clutch. Obviously it will come with the clutch, flywheel and pressure plate. However I figured that while I had the crap apart I might as well do everything down there all at once. Any information or suggestions that you guys can give will be greatly appreciated. While in there I plan to: Bleed the ATTESSA System (obviously) Put in Redline Shock Proof Fluid ??? btw, I am shooting for about 750WHP, I dont know if that makes a difference in what I should do down there. Thx. -Sayajin Edit/Delete Message

Well in my quest for an Exedy Triple Clutch for my GTR33 over here in the states I had someone contact me about a company called Spec Clutches. They are supposed to be a US company that makes economical clutches that can handle crazy horsepower. The guys is trying to convince me to go with one of these over an Exedy, the price coupled with the fact I can damn near get it today, makes me curious. Opinions? Can anyone vouch for them? Btw here is the site: http://www.specclutch.com/ One more question, the company only makes the clutches and pressure plate, not the flywheel. Will a resurfaced stock flywheel hold 750WHP or do I need to get a new one of those too? Thanks guys. *edit* As an aside, I also had someone i trust very much contact me about a Company called Carbonetic Clutches. They were formally ATS Across. From what he was telling me they make top of the line clutches. Also they use a full carbon composite plate instead of the woven plates that Exedy uses, meaning you get a more streetable feel and no need to warm it up. From what he is telling me the Carbonetic Double will actually hold a bit more than the Exedy Triple. Now it costs a little more, but seems worthwile for the benefits. Anyone ever heard of this company, either with its current or old name? *edit* -Sayajin

Hey guys. Well after much research it seems that I will be needing an Exedy Triple clutch instead of a double to handle to 750WHP goal that I have for my GTR33. The only problem that I am having is finding one! I am over in USA, so of course they are hard to find over here, so I have decided to just get one for the best price wherever I can find it from and get it shipped to me if necessary. If someone could point me to where I can find a competively priced Exedy Triple Clutch that I can get sent to me in USA, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks a lot. -Sayajin

Okay guys. Well last night I fully killed the clutch in my 96 GTR33, so I need to get a replacement one. Ideally I really want to get an Exedy Stage 2-3 clutch. I need it to handle about 750whp and be streetable, well as streetable as a 750whp capable clutch can be. I had an Exedy clutch in my EVO IX MR and loved it to death so I wouild really like to go with them again. If anyone can reccomend where I can get one from, ideally in the USA, I would greatly appreciate it. Also I would like to get it as cost effectivley as possible seeing as how I wasnt expecting to have to shell out for this upgrade till later. Thanks guys. -Sayajin

Hey guys. When I purchased my GTR33 it came with a Kakimoto 3" Cat back exhaust. I am shooting for about 700-750WHP when I am done with my R33. Now I of course realize that I also now need to upgrade my downpipe which appears to be stock size or very close to it. However my real question it this. I have been told that Kakimoto makes 2 different kinds of 3" exhaust, a racing one and an every day one. I am told I have the every day one. Is this true? Are there 2 different types? My exhuast appears to be 3 inches from the cat back, has manderal bends, a resonator, cat and muffler. Now I am used to running straight 3" pipe with only a muffler so I would of course remove the cat, but I was unsure about the other stuff. Is mine a decent 3" or would a different 3" be necessary? I have also heard that a 3.5in exhaust is ideal for a GTR33 especially with my power goals, so would a 3.5in make a signifigant difference? I guess I am just trying to find out if my 3in Kakimoto catback exhaust (as I said I would also upgrade Down Pipe) is sufficent for my 700-750WHP street car, or If I need to upgrade to a different 3" exhaust or even a 3.5". Thanks guys. -Sayajin

Hey guys. I am looking for a few Misc. Parts for my GTR33. If anyone has them it would be greatly appreciated. I know a few (1 or 2) can be found on eBay however I would REALLY prefer OEM. Thanks. - Drivers Side GT Badge (you know the little red and white badge on the side of the car that says GT) - Rear GTR Badge (yes I know I can get it from eBay but I would prefer OEM) - Drivers Side Overhead Visor (the one WITH the JDM sticker on it) - Leather Shift Boot (shifter not brake) - Trunk/Boot Carpet (the one actually IN the trunk/boot) - OEM RAM induction piece (you know the peice that goes into the airbox and then comes out by the hood for cold air induction) If you guys have this stuff I would GREATLY appreciate it! Thanks a lot. Please either send me a PM or call if you have it, I need these parts ASAP. -Sayajin 678-855-1030

Well came back from the shop today and it appears that my HICAS motor is dead. It SEEMS that the rest of the system works however. So now I am in the market looking for a HICAS motor. (You know the little black thing in the back under the car in the middle of the rear axle?) If anyone has one, or knows where I can get one decently priced any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks a lot. Also I have indeed heard from quite a number of people that it would probably be best to just eliminate the HICAS system all together. However, I would really like to get it back up and running first. I at least want to experience the system and then make an informed decision for myself on wither I want to eliminate it or not. Especially with the problem being something as simple as just the motor. That is just a few bolts and then im done. So while I do appreciate the opinion to remove the system all together, I would appreciate it even more if someone could either point me to where I can get a new HICAS motor or tell me that they had one available (im sure some of you do since you have locked your systems). Thanks a lot for the help! -Sayajin

Hey guys. I looked in the FAQ section of the SAU forum in order to test out my HICAS system to make sure that it is working properly. I successfully made it go into diagnosis mode however I can not tell exactly what code it is giving me. I was hoping that you guys could help? Here is what I get in diagnosis mode: btw, my HICAS light does not stay on. The only reason I checked it was to make sure it worked. The light only comes on when I start the car then goes off. Now to the business 10 short pulses for 5 seconds (as stated in FAQ) No pulse for 5 seconds (also as stated) One 1 Second Pulse (?) 3 short Pulse (?) Repeat Based on my reading of the other diagnosis thread (the one I initially read only went up to 9) I THINK the code I am getting is Number 13, HICAS Motor Output not Present. I was hoping that you guys could confirm wither I have the diagnosis correct or not? Also if I am indeed correct in my process and diagnosis, how the HELL do I fix the problem!? I would REALLY like to have my HICAS working properly and will appreciate any help that you guys can give. Thanks a lot for the help! -Sayajin