Daboss

I understand that that s why I removed fuel pump and cranked the engine with the fuel rail removed and no fuel comes from any cylinders. As soon as fuel pump is connected and primed a few times, still no fuel rail connected, and engine cranked fuel gushes from number 5. When I say remove I mean the fuel rail is disconnected from the plenum and moved by the throttle body with the injectors facing out the bonnet. No lines have been blocked, only reroute is to a fuel pressure regulator I have an aftermarket greddy copy plenum with and aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. It is setup like this: after coming from the filter it goes to the fuel rail, exits where the stock regulator use to be, have an adapter there that has a fuel line connected to the side of the regulator and then a fuel line from the bottom of the regulator to the return line.

Yea I have completely removed the fuel rail,injectors and fuel is still getting into the the cylinder. Positive it isn't coolant, liquid is clear and smells like gas plus coolant has not moved a millimeter since the idling of the car and still has not now during the troubleshooting stages. Exactly my point that's why I did it over so many times to make sure that's what was happening. I thought the only way for fuel to get in the cylinder would be through the fuel rail as well, but somehow when priming the fuel rail the fuel escapes into cylinder 5 and it is only number 5 cause that's the only cylinder that gushes fuel after priming. Think you are confused I am stumped, have no idea whats going on anyone with any kind of explanation throw it out there and I will try to test it out.

No it isn't I had the fuel rail completely removed, only thing I did was prime the fuel pump with the rail REMOVED and no. 5 filled with gasoline. Got all the gas out by cranking it with fuel pump disabled and rail not connected to plenum. When that was done replaced fuel pump fuse so that pump can prime again fuel rail still removed and no. 5 filled with gas again. Removed fuel pump fuse cranked car so that excess gas is removed from no.5, after no more gas came out the cylinder cranked car a few more times with no gas coming out that or any cylinder. Replaced fuse Primed fuel pump again with no fuel rail attached and after I had primed it a few times cranked it and fuel came gushing out of no.5 again still no fuel rail attached.

Ok both test were done and everything checked out perfectly. Even disconnected the fuel rail from the plenum and cranked the car with everything wired up all the injectors pulsed and none stayed open or shut. Now continued my test and think I have found the problem. Remember I told you pressure in the fuel rail didn't even slowly dissipate, it went from priming at 40 psi to no pressure as soon as the pump stopped. Well that is the problem, somehow the fuel is getting into cylinder number 5. After I had checked the injectors I noticed that when cranking the car fuel gushed out of 5 and that was impossible as the fuel rail was out and I had not touched the car in a few days, thinking it could have been left in there I finished rolling the car over with the fuel pump disconnected to let the excess out. Now the cylinder was dry I even cranked it a few times to make sure,..... no fuel coming from the cylinder. I then replaced the fuel pump fuse primed the line a few times and cranked the car...................... bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!! all kinds of fuel gushed out of number 5 and only number 5. So I removed the fuse and proceeded to force the fuel out through cranking the car all the fuel came out and the cylinder was cleared. Replaced the fuse primed it again and just as before cylinder 5 filled with gas. Now the problem has been found hooooooooooorrrrrrrrraaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now the difficult part,.................... What the hell is wrong and how do I fix it?

Will do and keep you guys posted.

Yea did that have the values at like 30% for some high flowed stock injectors there value is 650cc and still nothing. Do you guys think that I burned the valves running it rich all that time and now that is my problem, valves burned so not seated properly therefore compression is off and car wont start and on top of that all that fuel may have messed up the rings as well. Do burned valves stop a car from starting? Wouldn't it still start but just run horribly?

Ok here goes again!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Replaced oil in sump and the old oil was basically gas, thin and brown, no body to it at all. After I replaced oil poured less than a teaspoon into each cylinder. Now all the gas should have been out cause I changed the oil plus if compression was a prob the oil should bring it up a bit, at least that's my assumption. Unplugged the injectors, took the plugs out and cranked the car to get any fuel that was in the system out. Ok good all that done put everything back to how it suppose to be except I didn't plug injectors in, Cranked the car and it bubbled like it was gonna start, but instantly died. So am thinking well injectors aren't in so it should start when I plug them in, so I plugged them in and gave it a crank............................... It did a little bubble then....................Nothing. I went through all the test again and everything passed. Have spark, fuel, timing and compression, but the car just will not start. Tried to get it started maybe three more times with no luck checked the oil again and would you believe it gas is in there again just like last time. I am stumped is there anyway for gas to get in the sump besides draining past the rings, I mean for the amount of gas that seems to be in there, there is noway that much got in there from the 3 or 4 times I tried to start it. The injectors can not be dumping that much fuel. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Damn just what I didn't want to hear, I just spent all kinds of money getting the engine rebuilt. Can I just change the oil and tow it in gear as trident suggested? Then check for compression and ride it like that until I can afford a new rebuild or until I get a sign that the bearings or rings have let go. I am worried as hell , but really can't afford a rebuild again and I really need my ride.

No fuel is seeping out from what I can see now as I removed the fuel rail and primed the line. What do you mean by a faulty check valve, where is it located and how would it cause fuel to get in the sump?

Wasn't really to bed the rings in just started it to make sure all was good every couple a days. Don't know if all the cylinders are flooded but number 4 for sure, I am thinking that the rings in four got scored and from the continuous cranking ,changing of injectors and running rich fuel seeped past those rings or maybe all and ended up in the oil sump. How else would fuel end up in the oil sump? Also didn't say the fpr wasn't responding to vacuum, I said when you initially prime the system, turning the car to on without turning the key to ignition and the pump primes for that 5 second period, usually pressure stays in the fuel rail. I noticed that for my setup it does not. As soon as the pump has finished priming fuel pressure falls off. Exactly what I want to know. How did so much fuel get into the oil and how do I solve this problem?

Damn good news and horrible news. First the good news, got the car to almost start today. It tried to start for a second then just died off. Now for the horrible news, with the rail out noticed fuel was still getting on the plugs so cranked car with plugs out and heaps of fuel came from cylinder four. All the other holes had spark plugs in them. So decided to check the rest of plugs and what do you know they were covered in fuel also.For the hell of it I decided to check my oil dipstick and guess what, it was covered in fuel, so much that no oil was even present on the stick. I just had the engine rebuilt and like I said it started and idled fine every time I started it. Didn't have a dump pipe installed so only idled the car and drove it probably a total of 2 miles. This starting problem just occurred over the past week. Oh I also noticed that the pressure in the fuel rail does not stay there as soon as it is primed and the pump stops the pressure falls off. What do you guys think is the problem? Please, please, please for god sake do not say rings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Checked afm on pfc and it was at right setting, set for vg30 which I have installed. Ok so I fully charged the battery overnight and continued with my troubleshooting. Removed fuel rail and disconnected injector harness and proceeded to check if any leaks or if injectors were firing somehow with harness disconnected. Everything fine with injectors. Now decided to take a look at spark plugs to see if wet, cause there should be noway they would be wet as rail was disconnected. 1&2 were dry 6 was suspect could not really tell while 3,4 & 5 were wet as......decided to clean them off and try again. This time all were dry except 4 & 5. Took all out gave engine a few cranks to see if I could get rid of excess gas then replaced plugs and cranked again. Again 4 & 5 were wet so decided to leave them out so gas can have a chance to vaporize and come on here to report my findings. So what do you guys think??????? Cause as of now the only thing I haven't done is check the cams to see if they are broken and that's it. I am tired as and bummed out cant think of anything else. Ready to throw in the towel on my baby !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok will take a look. It is worth a shot. Running a z32 by the way. Here is an update, got a new set of plugs, added two gallons of fresh gas with a gallon of xylene and a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Car still will not start. Took out fuel rail with injectors installed primed system and noticed number six was leaking, changed that for another injector made sure that one was not leaking along with the other five. All were sealed properly and fired when cranking the car. I also took out the coil packs and cranked the car and observed all the spark plugs firing. Mistakenly pulled out injector while the rail had fuel in it and was attached to plenum so number six was filled with fuel, while the spark plug was out i cranked system to get rid of excess fuel in number six cylinder and left open to air for awhile. Fitted plugs and cranked system without injectors and when I removed the plugs, 1&2 were dry 3,4,5,6 were wet assumed it was fuel from previous cranking and proceeded to dry all cylinders, by cranking system with no plugs attached and leaving all cylinders open to air. Was in the process of testing the plugs again to see if they got wet with fuel while the injectors were unplugged, but the battery died so have it charging now and will proceed tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes.

Well according to the pfc voltage is present to all the sensors that need them guess I will have to see if I can find someone to swap a z32 afm, have series 2 so no ignitor and checked spark by grounding spark plugs and spinning CAS. No adjustable cam gear. That same gas was sitting in the car for at least eight months or so. So even though it started and ran the car previously that same batch of gas could also be the cause of it not starting?

Okay here is an update bought six new plugs, installed them and same outcome car will crank but will not start also after trying to start inspected plugs and they were soaked with fuel. Checked wires behind turbo exhaust they are fine, checked water temp sensors, they are both good the one in the radiator and the next one in the manifold. Checked both CAS on another car and they both started the other car. Checked fuel, spark and fuel pressure all are present. I am about to throw in the towel cause this is way past my knowledge on this car, I have tried everything suggested and what I can think of and nothing works. I am stumped. Went from running, to a slight misfire at idle to not starting at all. Are there any other suggestions cause right now the obvious isn't the problem, so whatever idea you have throw it out there see if you can help me get my car started. Checked all sensors on pfc and everything is good, changed injectors still no luck. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

No will do that also, good thinking did not even think of that. Changed injectors, fuel still soaked the spark plugs and scent was very strong in the air.

I tried another CAS, I have a spare, with no luck will have to find another just in case the two are bad. Will have to look at the water temp sensor wires and get a new set of plugs. Will do the checks mentioned and let you guys know how it goes. Tanks for all the suggestions keep emm coming.

Have not posted in awhile because car was off road waiting for a dump pipe install, but still passed through to read the topics. Whats up everyone? I am having a little situation and all the expert advice, theories and suggestions are welcome. Here goes. My car was awaiting a dump pipe install after a rebuild so it was off the road I started it every other day just to keep it in order and make sure it ran. Now when running it would sometimes smoke a little which I assumed was just a bit of oil burning off from the freshly installed journal bearing turbo. It went away after awhile anyway. The car was running pretty rich as I would smell gas as the car was running, but no way to tell as the dump wasn't installed so no wideband or normal O2 sensor. On Sunday i decided to change the number six spark plug as it was missing on that cylinder. I did, noticed that plug was covered in carbon and miss went away after new plug installed. Now I did my every other day routine of letting it run to operating temp but this time there was that subtle miss you get when the plugs are gapped to tight, I paid no mind to it and continued to let it run. I could smell the car was running rich so decided to lean the tune out at idle to see if that would help, No matter how much I leaned it out, which was only maybe 10 down presses on the pfc it didn't really stop the rich smell.........so I put it back to normal. Car ran this way for about 10 to 15 mins.Cut the car off, went out came back and decided to run it again. As it started it ran for about 20 secs did the little pops and then just died. Tried to restart the car and nothing, it would roll over but not start, could smell gas vapors with every attempt to start. Tried a few more times with no luck so decided to do some test in short everything is ok except the car will not start. Timing is good, have fuel, spark and compression on each cylinder is 120 psi. But car will not start and when removing the plugs they are soaked with gas and with every attempt to start, gas is smelled very strongly. What do you guys think it can be??? If the valves are burnt will it stop the car from starting? All help appreciated, Thanks.

Bump gt35r kit for sale $1800.00 Aud Kit includes: 1) Gt35r ball bearing internal gate 14psi actuator .63 rear. 2) Brand new jecs high flowed 550cc injectors. 3) Brand new low mount turbo manifold with spacers. 4) P.I.T bcu electronic boost controller with built in turbo timer and everything needed for install. 5) Front/Dump pipe heat wrapped. Everything is in perfect working order, turbo has about 7000km on it only boosted to 18psi. No shaft play at all

Bump gt35r kit for sale $2000.00 Aud Kit includes: 1) Gt35r ball bearing internal gate 14psi actuator .63 rear. 2) Brand new jecs high flowed 550cc injectors. 3) Brand new low mount turbo manifold with spacers. 4) P.I.T bcu electronic boost controller with built in turbo timer and everything needed for install. 5) Front/Dump pipe heat wrapped. Everything is in perfect working order, turbo has about 7000km on it only boosted to 18psi. No shaft play at all

Bump gt35r kit for sale $2200.00 U.S. SHIPPED. Kit includes: 1) Gt35r ball bearing internal gate 14psi actuator .63 rear. 2) Brand new jecs high flowed 550cc injectors. 3) Brand new low mount turbo manifold with spacers. 4) P.I.T bcu electronic boost controller with built in turbo timer and everything needed for install. 5) Front/Dump pipe heat wrapped. Everything is in perfect working order, turbo has about 7000km on it only boosted to 18psi. No shaft play at all

Thanks for the response! That is half of what I wanted to know, how it would spool and what power figure it might make. I still do not know if the rear housing I have in the shed will fit it cause if it is a simple bolt on case, I could still acquire it put it together and pass it on to someone with bigger displacement. I have decent turbos, the gt35r and hx40, and if you remember from a previous post I had bought the wrong housing for the 35r and since I had a brand new housing sitting around doing nothing I just wanted to know if the housing would simply work and if it was a bolt-on case. Just was doing this as an experiment and wanted you guys opinions on what kind of power and spool time a turbo like this would have on a rb25det. My car is up and running fine with the hx40 just in the tuning process. Sure you can ask and of course I realize I can get a brand new turbo to meet my rwkw goal for $1500 plus. The answer to your question is,... to learn, If you read my first post you would see why I am posting about this random turbo, to reiterate it I came across this turbo for a dirt cheap price without a rear housing. I had a rear housing that I had bought previously just collecting dust and was wondering if that housing would fit this turbo and if it was worth the time. The only info I had on it was that it is a t4 ptrim rear and wanted to know if anyone knew if the housing I have sitting up would just simply bolt on to this turbo and the spool time and rwkw it would produce.

I have a turbo setup on my car already and was just buying this as an experiment as it is dirt cheap and I had a rear housing just lying around and wanted to know if it will fit and work. Ok all the specs he has on the turbo according to him are its a garret ball bearing turbo, Comp side: 67mm inducer, 82mm exducer, Turbine side: t4 ptrim thats all the info on the turbine side, the rear housing I have is a garret 1.00 t4 divided housing with the numbers in the first post and I was just wondering if it will fit and what the turbo will produce as an experiment and what spool would be like. I was thinking it would be ok as it is ball bearing and the comp wheel has the same specs as 35r just the inducer size is a bit bigger so it should flow more and I was thinking it would have the same spool. What I wanted to know is how does the turbine attach to the housing is there a backing plate or clamp that I would need to buy in order to attach them? Pics of turbo are attached.

Hey there forum what's up? I need an answer to a few turbo assembly questions. All help is appreciated. I need to know what all is involved and how do you match up a turbine housing. I have the opportunity of getting a turbo that has no turbine housing and I am very interested just need to know what all I need to assembly the rear. The owner has no idea and says all he knows is that the rear is a T4 ptrim and the turbo has no identifying numbers. How would I know what rear to get? The turbo is also a ball bearing turbo. Now my dilemma is a have a turbine housing sitting around and wanted to know if it will fit a t4 ptrim turbine wheel. The number on the housing is 410401-0036. Can this housing be used with that turbo and also what else is needed in order to assemble the turbine of the turbo? Do I need a plate for the rear of the turbo to attach to the turbine housing? I am lost when it comes to this and would like some assistance please.

Never dynoed, on my own tune and I am far from being a tuner I had around 410rwhp at 18psi, which is child's play for this turbo, according to the g-tech pro. That is with pfc.