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rorz

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Everything posted by rorz

  1. Couldn't agree more. Owning a performance car is about personal preference, which comes down to speed, style, feel, etc etc. Of course everyone will have different opinions when it comes to that. I personally love the sound and style of Skylines, and i don't think i will change for a hell of a long time.
  2. Mate there are a huge number of threads regarding this issue, unfortunately the new search function doesn't seem to be working properly. Sift through the NA forum pages and you will see hundreds of exhaust threads. I did a huge amount of research and it actually seems 2 1/4 inch is the best for all round driving, 2.5 for slightly better top end with a sacrifice in low end, and 3" is straight up too large (unless you want a nice power figure on the dyno with f**k all drivability). You could install some things yourself if you purchase them off the shelf suited for your R33 (e.g. cat back will just bolt up, as with headers). Extractors may not give you a higher power figure but help in the respone of the throttle. More snappy. As for the varex, i personally think they sound awful - open or closed. I would get a nice twin-tip that sounds throaty but not too loud but that's just me. *NOTE TO MOD: i think it would be awesome if you could bundle together all the exhaust size threads into one big sticky becuase it is clearly a common topic.
  3. oh i didn't even think about that i just assumed the turbo would come out with a larger exhaust from factory?
  4. Hey guys, i'm sure this has been covered somewhere but i couldn't find anything using search. I'm also not used to the new search function on the website. Does a Stock R33 25det exhaust fit on a R33 Rb25DE from the cat back? If so, has anyone done this with noticable gains? Thanks
  5. Hey guys, i'm trying to purchase some pads for my R33 Non-turbo RB25DE 1996 RWD, but Supercheap thinks that my car doesn't exist and only gives me the part numbers for the 4WD model (which may have different pads?), they also say there are 2 types, pinned and non-pinned. Repco just gave me 1 part number, which confused me becuase they didn't ask about the pins. I live in New Zealand so we don't have Autobahn. Can anyone please help me? A part number for the front pads and rear pads would be helpful e.g. DB1222 or something Thanks
  6. I can actually shed light on the original question here rather than talking about my girlfriends shitty pulsar sss or my magna with an exhaust system which is of NO HELP in ANY of these threads.. I have driven all 3 of those cars, my friend had a R34 2.5 NA manual (i have a R33 2.5 NA manual - pretty much the same), my flat mate has an s15 Autech, and i have driven/been in a NA supra about 6 times. The fastest was the autech for sure, maybe not in numbers but it felt the fastest for sure, pulled MUCH harder. The R33 and R34 NA are just slow as hell, whereas the supra is a heavy beast but has got power, although not the type of power you want to go back to time and time again - it's pretty timid. In terms of modding, the autech is tuned from factory and shouldn't need to be touched. The Supra and Skyline respond pretty well to intake/exhausts as a starting point but i wouldn't bother to go much further. I'd say all 3 of those cars are quite reliable in their own right. My advice would be to get something average like a RB20DE r32 coupe until you are off your P's, becuase those 3 cars mentioned above are so expensive for what they are. If you would like to know more about how each of those cars drive you can PM me, i can say out of the 10 cars i have owned since i started driving 5 years ago, the turbos (and my old Soarer V8) are the only cars i miss and crave to drive.
  7. Really? I would think you would notice a difference straight away with a new exhaust? That puts me off getting one installed on mine
  8. Non-turbo skylines are generally quite slow. I'm not surprised the BMW beat you to be honest. I'm sure everyone here has sped from time to time man maybe just don't tell everyone you had an illegal race.
  9. Just remember the more mods you do to the NA the less drivability it will have in terms of comfort (especially when it comes to cams). I recommend the 2.5inch exhaust and good intake then maybe weight reduction and spend the rest on good maintenance until you can afford a faster car (if that's what you want). My favourite NA car i have owned was a V8 toyota soarer, very quick, very cool.
  10. I have a 96 R33 manual with the Rb25 and it's ok. It rides nicely and has just enough power but don't expect it to be fast. You will lose to most Vtech honda's such as b16a civic and integra not to mention type-R. Minor power gains can be made from a good air filter (expensive panel filter) or boxed pod, with extractors + exhaust. My advice would be to wrap some good tyres on it and keep it maintained until you are off your restricted plate and can afford something faster if that's what you want. The Rb25 has been the slowest car i have owned but then again i'm no 'P' plater (we can drive whatever we want in NZ, even on our restricted license - which is your P plate). One thing to look for when viewing your R33, listen for gearbox/clutch/bearing noises at idle when you engage/disengage the clutch. If you can hear audible noises such as rattling or scraping something could be on it's way out. Obviously look for any oil/water leaks from underneath and make sure the bodywork is all straight under there (no damaged chassis)
  11. She has an S14 Silvia with a turbo sized exhaust and CAI. Mind you, Rb25DE neo is the only NA skyline i havn't driven, my R33 is just the VVT model. At the very least, her SR20DE is miles ahead of the RB20DE.
  12. On the topic of fast N/A's, i have owned a RB30E skyline, RB20DE and RB25DE skyline and i can say that my girlfriends SR20DE can beat any of them. Maybe they are the way to go for a faster NA?
  13. Agreed, speaking of the fins....has anyone done anything interesting with them before? maybe painted them a seperate colour?
  14. Here's my RB25DE Manual R33. Swapped it for my old GTS-T R32 which had stuffed rings. I love it although the Rb25DE's are disguistingly slow. Also you may notice i took the spoiler off, that's becuase i like the fins it leaves behind. It's becoming a trend with these R33's over in NZ. Looks more aggressive. Definately not the best looking NA here but tidy enough!
  15. I'd be SERIOUSLY interested in watching/hearing a video of a NA RB with 200rwkw. Good luck with it mate, make sure you keep us posted!
  16. Ok thanks for that mate i'm going to assume based on what you have said and what i have read elsewhere on the forum that i can leave it be for some time while i save up for a replacement of some description. Cheers
  17. Nope it just has a rotating sound as if there is like a marble in the gearbox somewhere with a sort of scraping background noise although it's not hugely loud. It's unfortunate becuase my exhaust is extremely loud so quite hard to diagnose the severity of the problem. Im draining the oil out tomorrow so till be interesting to see what comes out!
  18. Well i just went to a specialist and he said that if i leave it the input shaft bearing will break up and run through the gearbox and i could destroy something else in my gearbox (the teeth i think he said) and that he can fix it up for me for $2000 NZD. I said no thank you. Does anyone here have experience with loud input shaft bearings and how long theirs lasted (or didn't last) before something happened? I am too poor to afford a new box let alone a rehaul.
  19. ok cheers for the help mate but the main question i guess here (that can help everyone and not just me) is: at what point do you decide that the noise level is loud or rough enough to justify taking out the gearbox etc? I mean does it have to be popping out of gear to justify this or just be really noisy? My gearbox in particular has no crunches and shifts really well it just has noisy bearings, hence my problem with determining the health of the gearbox.
  20. Is it worth throwing in some nulon 70 additive in there before i fork out $1000 for a refurbish? Just trying to get a grasp on the necessity of this procedure.. *on a side note, if i did get some oil additive can i just throw it in the top where the gear stick comes out? It's a RWD not 4WD
  21. Hey guys, my R33 Rb25DE manual has a really loud input shaft? becuase when i lift my foot off the clutch i can hear a rattling scraping noise. I have owned other RB's and the sound is usually a slight whirring which is fine.. The sound is also audible while in gear driving the same rattly scraping rotating sound, which DOESN'T sound normal to me... My question is, how do i know when it's time to pull the gearbox out and get the bearings done? i have searched and most people talk about getting the bearings replaced but not what happens if you chose to ignore it? Thank you
  22. i have just been using the search function here and google extensively and i cannot for the life of me find a nice solid set of instructions for checking/setting timing using a timing light for rb20det. Could someone please make a sticky and lay down the basics? i know for a fact i have set my timing wrong becuase it's pinging hard even though it 'should' be at 15degrees. i believe this basic check could help a lot of people with flat spots. Thank you
  23. Thanks for the replies guys.. here's an update.. i have replaced the coil packs and replaced spark plugs with 0.8mm gap. This made bugger all difference to the power curve, so i then clutched at a straw and fiddled with the timing (by advancing it without a timing light haha) and it now runs a bit better through out the rev range. Still blows considerable smoke. My mods are: - No cat That is all. I have been searching how to do the timing properly as i can borrow a mates light but people seem to have different answers so could you please clarify? I tried hooking the light around the wires coming out of coilpack #1 and it gave good signal so i just used that and set it to what i believe to be around 17 but that made it worse so i put it back to where i had it with my trial and error timing. Cheers
  24. That would be really helpful, cheers mate
  25. Great thanks for the reply, looking again i do see what you mean, the ones without the carbon conductors have springs that are wound at the end anyway. May i ask how you 'bench test' a coil pack? I'm considering buying some cheap second hand ones to fix my flat spot but i've heard mixed results about testing them with a multimeter.
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