rorz

Hey guys I just removed my coil packs from my RB20DET and noticed that 3 out of the 6 coil packs are missing the little conductor at the end of the spring. Is this a performance issue? I don't seem to have any audible missfires but i do have a bit of a flatspot betweet 4500-redline. I imagine the spring still conducts fine by itself but not as well as if it had the conductor.. What are your thoughts? Cheers

bump. Sorry, im going to take it into mechanics tomorrow arvo but just seeing if i can potentially spend this money on one of your suggestions rather than paying the mech huge labour fees. Cheers

hey guys, My rb20det r32 Gts4 manual stock really struggles to rev high, i know the stock turbos run out off puff a bit after 5rpm but i have now been in someone elses stock rb20det and it seemed to pull almost to redline (6500), at any rate it was much faster than mine. It has no cat so runs 11psi due to that. The engine has a fair amount of blow by (it uses oil), no catch can. I have: -replaced my old iridium 1.1 spark plugs with standard at 1.1 gap (becuase stock boost) -taped up the coil packs with pretty average insulation tape -changed fuel filter -cleaned AFM with CRC AFM cleaner -replaced ECU with another stock one -sprayed brakecleen around intake to look for leaks (it holds boost till 5rpm then drops off to about 9psi close to redline which is normal i presume) -put the factory airbox back on instead of pod -blocked off BOV i cant really get to a dyno which is what i know most of you will suggest. Could this be R&R? I don't know if r32's have that and if it was R&R it's not sudden it just feels quick from 2-4500 rpm then really feels like an NA after that ( My last idea is that the coil packs are no good even though the car runs smoothly with no missfires, is there a way to test these? Unplugging them is no good becuase it idles fine. Or could be timing but don't have a timing light. Thanks guys i know this is a lot of information but i'd really like to sort this out so if anyone has any ideas i'd be really grateful. I have done a search on similar problems and people end up taking their car to the dyno then never explaining how it went or what the problem was To sum up my questions: - Does anyone know what could be causing this (R&R?, timing?) - How do you test coilpacks using multimeter (i have searched and people have different explanations 0-1ohms between what 2 points?)

Yep that sounds like R&R, 14psi is too much for the stock ecu and you will need a tuned/new ecu to fix that (or lower your boost right down)

Hey guys, yes i did do a search but noone seems to have a definate answer as to what is normal and what is leaking noise.. My car when in 3000+ revs or boosting at all has a constant venting noise (like shhhhh) that turns into a CHSSS when i change gear, so i blocked the BOV off with a can and the 'venting' sound went away to some extent (can still hear the shhh intake when boosting but not as loud, and no 'chss' when changing gear obviously). How do i know if my BOV is leaky or if that's how it's supposed to sound with a pod filter? My BOV is stock but has a Mitsubishi symbol on it if that makes a difference. My rb20det is also stock. When i say 3000+ revs i mean my boost guage will be reading -5 (vacuum) but i can still hear a slight venting. This is also when driving at 100 in 5th gear i can hear the venting noise. Cheers guys.

Mine has done 155,000 kms and it only started doing it recently. I struggle to see how a whole litre can be in the intake system in just one week but thanks i'll have a look tomorrow anyway cheers

Hey all, As above, my car is using oil somehow. There are no marks on the driveway so not leaking, and it only blows a bit of blue smoke sometimes when giving it some boot. Otherwise hardly ever see smoke from the exhaust. Does that sound right? To use 1 litre of oil in 1 week from town driving? i would think if it was using that much it would be pouring smoke from the exhaust all the time? Stock Rb20det r32 No cat Pod 11psi Feels like N/A after 4-5 RPM Cheers for any input.

Hey Bill, Could you please let us know what the problem was eventually? I'm having the exact same problem, my R32 GTS4 feels slow. I took it one step further than you and installed a boost guage and it reads 11psi through the whole gear so it's not losing boost but still feels like an NA after 4-5 RPM. Anyone else have a known solution to this kind of problem?

Hey sorry to bring up an old thread but is that stuff still called Selleys 401? I went looking for it at Bunnings, Placemakers, and Mitre 10 and noone have it. I noticed the original post of this was in 2006 so it could have changed name? Also i live in NZ which may have something to do with it.

Ah sorry, noob here. Coil cover then. Yeah nah i tried doing that didn't work out. People cut the end of the cover off and keep it to mount the ignitor i know i could get it cut for me professionaly but i'd rather try do it at home it's just my tiny hacksaw isn't up to it

Hey guys, I just took off my valley cover today to try and keep my coilpack temps down, but now there is nowhere to mount the ignitor pack. People have said it's best to cut the valley cover to have this mounting point. Just wondering what's the best way to do this at home? Will a hacksaw do the job? Or can i just leave the ignitor pack loose? Cheers

Yep i cant do that mate no boost controller, it's boosting at 11psi becuase i have no cat

It has no cat. It has done 153,000 kms. Timing belt done at 90,000 Yeah maybe it is just the stock exhaust. Will look into it. Cheers guys.

The pulling feeling in my car is around 3000 im not entirely sure but the point of my post is that that pulling feeling dissappears soon after and the rest of the gear feels like an NA Rb25 if you like. I'll try the fuel reg thing anyway and let you guys know how it goes tomorrow arvo.

I've had the car about a week so yeah it's always been like this. At first i just assumed the rb20det is slow but after a bit more driving i decided it's definately lacking top end. In your test you say 'see if it does anything', what should i be looking for here? Thanks for the replies

Hey guys, Are rb20det's really slow or is it just me? I recently got a r32 gts4 converted to RWD, Stock turbo Stock airbox No cat 11psi boost Stock zorst At about 2500 it starts getting up to 11psi which holds till about 6000 then trails down to about 9.. My issue is, it only seems to give you that 'turbocharged boost' feeling at about 3-3500 then the rest of the gear feels like a NA despite the bost guage reading 11. After doing a lot of searching on these forums most people complain about no low end but good top end, where i seem to be the opposite.. I used to have a SR20det silvia which was slow in low revs then kept getting faster as the revs climbed higher which is the feeling i like/expect from a turbo car Any ideas? I could be paranoid and just have a slow 6 cylinder 20det. Cheers

I got the boost guage done it's reading -20 at idle and +10 at full boost and doesn't fluctuate so that seems all normal, Must just have some issue with one of the intake items being blocked/restrictive when cold

That's the thing though, i'm not trying to boost it when it's cold. I just try and drive nice and slow but the turbo spools up hard even if my foot is 1/5 on the accelerator pedal. The turbo makes noise but the car isn't actually boosting if that makes sence I bought a boost guage today just need to figure out how to fit it.

Ok thanks for that, assuming the factory BOV or some other part of the intake has a leak, why would this only have a large effect when the car is at cold temperature?

Hey guys, i recently purchased a Rb20det R32 coupe (GTS4) converted to manual, When the car is cold it doesn't want to boost.. i can hear the turbo spooling up hard but the car doesn't go anywhere, then all of a sudden (sometimes) it just hits and goes. i can feel the turbo responding to my throttle and i feel like if i floor it when it's cold the turbo will just explode (even though the car is hardly accelerating) Additionally, it feels like the car is overboosting. When the car is warm the turbo is really loud and it spools really hard from like 2500 to 4000 then drops off a lot. Unfortunately i havn't got a boost guage to measure this. Any ideas? The car is stock however the cat is removed. Even has factory airbox. Cheers!

Hey i was wondering if someone could tell me my options with these 2 things i need before i can renew my W.O.F. (i did an auto to manual conversion) 1. im using the manual gearbox crossmember and only 2 of the 4 bolts go in ( i still have the old auto one lying around) and 2. my speedo is way out becuase of the auto diff, but i dont want to have to get a whole new diff just so my speedo is right?! thats a lot of work and money. The auto speedo cable was manual i think and the manual speedo cable was electric? i think? i cant remember but thats why i cant just swap over. Any ideas or suggestions? cheers ay

ok cheers for the link i musn't have searched hard enough Yeah sometimes when i go aroudn corners and straighten up it cuts out and jerks then comes back to normal again. So maybe my AFM is stuffed? OR maybe its just becuase its sitting a bit loose becuase of the pod filter moving around when i corner

Hey guys, i've been searching the forums about air flow meters becuase i just put a Poddy on my RB30 and i've noticed a power loss in the high RPM and i am led to believe it must be my AFM, So what actually makes an AFM stop working properly? Like people always say "oh yer mate yer AFM's had it eh" But how does this happen? And why are they so prone to stuffing up whenever they like? Someone please put the legendary myth of the stuffed AFM to rest! Cheers Rorz

Sweet as cheers for the replies. And quickly, what is the incriments in which the timing marks go up in? (how many degrees between each timing mark on the belt? 2 degrees isnt it?) Cheers

Hey mate my car looks exactly like yours, but can i ask what size mags/wheels you're using and how did you lower it? cheers