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About Torques

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    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 04/02/1970

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    R33 GTST (97) S2
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  1. You should possibly ask about that in the forum .. I have no experience with these boxes, but it might be worth looking into buying a GTT gearbox (and the clutch conversion) For R33 S2, the gearbox was changed 05/1998. The part number is 32010-21U60!
  2. OK, thanks for that. I would assume that with development of the car (S1/S2/GTT) design changed would have been made. I read somewhere that the late S2 (so 1998) gearboxes have larger synchros .. (no confirmed)
  3. What would be the differences between the gearboxes for S1/S2/GTT? Are they interchangeable, is one stronger than the other? I noticed that rebuild kits for S1 and S2 differ.. Thanks
  4. Aren't they selling it anymore?
  5. The car's odo is genuine. I bought it at 63K 6 years ago as the first owner. I got the Japanese factory logbook, exporter certificates and so forth. Though paperwork can be falsified the physical appearance support that. Headlights and windscreen are in mint condition , so is the interior (pedals, fabrics, etc) Car looks mint from below as well .. You don't have that with higher mileage cars. I doubt the gearbox was ever touched, but of course you never know.
  6. I recently changed over to the OEM gearbox oil. The gear changes were never as smooth before, I'm very happy with that oil and it's not expensive either.
  7. My gearbox developed a whining sound in all gears. (louder under load) I changed the oil and there were metal shavings at the magnet. (more than what you'd expect to see ) After the oil change the whining noise almost halved and is barley noticeable. Shifting is smooth. I suspect either the counter shaft or input shaft bearings, is that a common thing with these transmissions? Any other usual suspects? The box has about 70K on the odo, has never been abused except for the occasional drag run. Power wise the engine makes about 290ish rkw Cheers Attached the picture of what the magnet caught.
  8. Electric boot (trunk) release R33? Is there a drop in part available (from another Nissan maybe) that I could use to open / unlock the boot of my car via my alarm system remote? I already retrofitted the passenger side door actuator from a Micra ... so just wondering if there is a part that fits right in.. Thanks you ...
  9. I was trying to get some information since got a new turbo capable of [email protected] 6500rpm which is a big step from the 15PSI of the old turbo. While being on a roller I found that the power curve went through some strange 'ditches' and I was wondering if that might be due to valve float. Valve float was not of any concern to me before simply because my old turbo was running less boost. I'll dial in 20PSI and run more timing to get a good baseline, from there I can work it up should I feel the need.
  10. OK, thank you ... I'm usually not revving the engine highly , it rarely sees 6500 rpm. The limiter is set to 7000 rpm. The engine has 70k km on the odo, and poncams installed. I'll take your advice and will run 20PSI for the time being, other than on a dyno how can you tell you get into valve float territory?
  11. RB25DET max 'safe' boost for valve springs? What would be the safe boost level before I get valve float? (intake valve not reliably closing anymore) Thanks
  12. Thanks ... That's a shame but as you said it's better to use an after market rail then
  13. Thank you, I was hoping the NEO rail would just fit in and save me the work of rerouteing fuel lines etc.