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Upgraded clutch fork kit any good?


Torques
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I'm about to change my clutch and came across this upgraded clutch fork kit:

https://conceptzperformance.com/czp-upgraded-heavy-duty-clutch-fork-kit-nissan-skyline-89-92-gt-r-95-98-gts-t-r33-30531-cd000-build_p_14924.php

Would that be something to consider while the clutch is out or waste of $$?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

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The standard pivot points have been known to snap with a combination of heavy clutch and heavy foot, and it is a quick/easy thing to change if the gearbox is off (and a real pain if not)

No idea whether this one is actually stronger than factory, and I've never heard of anyone having a fork issue.

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No, it's a very good idea. I run one in the blue R32, I sourced mine from Kudos Motorsports a few years ago.

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/heavy-duty-clutch-release-fork-suit-nissan-300zx-skyline-081989-021993-gts25-p-2123.html

In a nutshell it is a factory Nissan 350Z CD009 cast alloy push release fork and boot with a shorter custom height Chromoly pivot ball specific to suit the RB box. The cast alloy release fork is dimensionally very similar to an R33 GTR pull release fork which are heaps more rigid than a stock push. The pivot ball being shorter also decreases the likelihood of snapping and seem far beefier than a stock or Nismo unit.

I've never seen a standard release fork break, but what I have noticed is they a soft as shit and flex a lot. They tend to bend out of spec very easily and wear quite a lot on the release bearing carrier finger area, which causes travel inconsistencies and decreases how much clutch release travel movement you get. If you compared a brand new stock push release fork to a well used one, which I have, you'll notice how flogged out they get after lots of use with heavy pressure plate clutches.

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@BK

Thanks for the input, it's not a lot of $$$ and my only concern was that the throw at the release bearing end would be different compared to the OEM setup.

I think they used the shortened pivot ball to get the travel right.

This is for an R33GTST .. and after 25 years a refresh wouldn't hurt.

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9 hours ago, Torques said:

think they used the shortened pivot ball to get the travel right

It's not the travel distance per se, it's the pivot point angle of the release fork as it is not correct to try and change the travel with the pivot height. Factory fork is around 4mm thick and the cast around 15mm so of course you need to reduce the pivot height. The angle of the release bearing face vs the slave cylinder push rod needs to be brought back into the factory plane. If you use a longer than required pivot ball the release bearing fingers on the fork are not flat on the bearing carrier, which causes other sorts of dramas like side load on the release pivot and chewing out the bearing carrier fork release face.

As mentioned these are good when running high clamp load pressure plates with a substantial increase over the factory 600 -700kg clamp, but will offer little to no benefit if not. I would consider high clamp to be at or in excess of double the factory clamp load, so think NPC 1650kg singles or the Jim Berry full monty which can be 1800 - 2500kg ! Big capacity singles are always the worst offenders as their clamp load is increased far beyond what a multiplate clutch requires.

I run multiplate ATS twin/triples with 1350kg clamp so not stupid high, but still heavier than most Jap clutches like Nismo or OS giken as their clamp loads are generally only in the 1000 - 1100kg region.

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  • 4 months later...
8 hours ago, FiXtUrE said:

Sounds pretty fancy in description, but for 65 bux I doubt it’s better than Oem.

The fork is oem - a 350z oem. If it wasn't better Nissan wouldn't have changed it would they...

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24 minutes ago, BK said:

The fork is oem - a 350z oem. If it wasn't better Nissan wouldn't have changed it would they...

Admittedly, when dealing with an OEM.....it could just be 75% of the cost for 99% of the good. Normal value engineering bullshit.

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