skybarge

Hey man, yeah, those were teh very last of the series 2, i think some people even refer to them as series 3 really hard to find the lights though, I found some but they wanted $1800USD for them :S so screw that, I'd rather spend them on a new car Also the bonnet is a different shape for the xenon ones, they do look mint though, they are found on most of the later model R33 GTRs but only a few of the GTS25ts :S

The way I do it is, drain a bit of the water out of the radiator by turning the bleed valve at the bottom of the radiator then putting in some radiator coolant flush then completely removing the radiator bleed valve wait till it's all gone, then undo the bottom radiator hose it'll leak a lot still so be careful once empty, put it back on, put in a mix or 50/50 coolant/water or 100% coolant if you really want to, although I think 50/50 is a better idea to be honest then squeeze the top radiator hose a few times, bubbles will come out and there won't be too much air in the system. Start the car with the radiator cap off, remove the inlet bleed screw(where the 3 water lines connect) and wait about 1-5 minutes the thermostat will click off and the water will drop a bit, top it up, then redo up the bleed screw Then you should have it all clean again take it for a thrash leave it for 30+ minutes to cool down, then undo the cap and check the level, it should be nice and clean --- Oh and don't ever use cold water in a hot engine, you could crack the head/block if it's too hot and cold water enters the galleries, or so I've been told----

Here is a pic of some on a Silvia http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C.../p-45517123.htm They are ok wheels, but I'm from NZ and they are too common here basically every 2nd car as them, silvias, rx7s, skylines..

oh yeah I didn't see the 25det part you can rewire the rb20 ecu to see it, but I'm not too sure how to get the VVT working, I know there is a way, also if you've got a Wolf, why are you worrying about an rb20 ecu? why not just use that, the 4wd ATTESSA controller should be seperate and not connected to the main ECU?

I've had issues with mine in the past, seem to be a common occurance Usually 3-4 days with WD40 left soaking, put on each morning gets them out If not though, be careful, they break easily, I'd suggest taking one of the bolts to a bolt/washers shop and get them replaced with the same thread I think the reason they get jammed up is a heat and expansion thing, so best option is to replace them, I paid like $0.30c for a bolt the same thread and height, in black too

yeah dude, the sensor is behind the steering wheel, think its an 18 or 22mm nut? It's round 8-10cm in diameter and 2-3cm thick It's basically a round thing which moves left/right, it's black with a brown plug on it If it's not there, sounds like someone might have to taken it out If that's the case, get a lockbar kit and lock the rear steering up If it is there, it's possibly not plugged in or faulty, check the plug is in, if it is, unplug and replug it If you want hicas, just get another sensor, there should be a few available after people upgrade to non-hicas boss kits and remove their hicas The above info is for an R32, which I'm assuming you have? it will be similar for an R33, but I'm not sure about an R34

Hey dude Same ECU on both cars The 4wd controller for the GTS4 is on the right hand side kick panel i think? well at least it is on mine so you can use the ECU from a GTS-t in place of the stock passenger side one

hmmm autogauge are ok, quite cheap though: Boost = wouldn't trust it, mine bent the needle and didn't work Oil, Water temp = fine Oil pressure = seems ok, pretty close to factory, not 100% though A/F ratio = wouldn't trust, I'd get something better to be honest Volts = yeah, not that important You can usually pick them up off trademe here in NZ for round $30-$40 each or ebay for $12.99 plus shipping To be honest though, for the ones that are critical to your system spend your money on something better, DEFI, HKS, Apexi or Autometer The Apexi EL gauges are round $140AUS i think and you can get the standalone ones that don't require the control, mechanical boost

hey man first place I'd seriously check if it's smelling in the interior is the fueltank to fuelpump holder o-ring These tend to fail or not be installed properly on most(well the past 3 I've had) Bascially undo the 6 nuts, lift it about 2-3cm, feel around for the grove and seal the seal usually is either not there or has moved from the grove It it's moved push it into the groove If it's not there, you need a new one from nissan :S can't remember the part number to be honest, to replace it, remove the fuelpump holder put the seal in, then put the pump back in If it's fine, yeah as above, leaky injectors, fuel filler cap or leaking lines

No worries I redid one on my project car today, I didn't use a helper, just a trolley jack My method was: Trolley jack to support the door Undo 4 bolts Push jack up until the door lock is about 1cm above the lock on the car then Tighten, and done, I have a flush fitting door now But my drivers side has rust on the hinge

Yeah it sounds like air in the lines Unless you didn't remove the lines to do it? Usually when isntalling the pads I undo the bleeder to push the caliper in, that way it doesn't force fluid back into the master If you removed the hoses, then yeah, air in the lines Had a bit of an experience yesterday, I forgot about mine, brakes were working fine on my drive, started driving it to my new house, got on a very steep hill, no pedal :S straight to the floor :S Ended up using the handbrake to stop, took about 10 meters though :S luckily no one was around to laugh at me

if it didn't come with the gasket it's meant to, just use gasket goo, CRC Gasket Maker works fine don't use a coke can, since they are rounded, the gasket won't seal properly

RB20det and 20de ones fit, or you could get an R33 RB20e one, they fit as well The difference is: R32 RB20/R25 have on extra rib on the power steering belt, apart from that they fit R33 has one less rib for the power steering belt, you could always try buy from Trademe over here in NZ, there seem to be a lot around. What sort are the Sliding Performance ones? I don't think I'd trust anything apart from Stock or ATi balancers

Yeah I've made the mistake of buying the same cable :S It's ultra crap, I've bought a USB adapter for it, I've got mine partially working, but not totally. It's an ATX cable, I miht get the circuit diagram and post info on how to make it, it'll save everyone paying $60 for it the software they send is only a trial version too, available here: http://eformance.info/consult129.zip It's only a trial too, all for the ripoff price of $68 USD :S But oh well, it's only to get my timing running and idle proper, I think I'll have to start saving for a PowerFC

wow!!! That is awesome the lights aren't LED, do a search for Gattling gun Q45 7 HID lenses in one headlight :S they are crazy as The interior is mint as well same colour as mine, but i doubt mine will look anywhere near as good

oh crap, whoops, that was top speed 347kph not 0-300 :S

Very nice good to see the old R32s still getting publicity so fastest 1/4 mile street and drag, fastest 0-300 oh yeah For the dude above, the Veilside car was an R34, did it over here in NZ, just below Taupo, think the same year a Porsche crashed spectacularly on the same circuit GTR: Couldn't find the porsche crash though

Just use Dot 4 cheaper and works

Cut the flanges off and get pipes made up with some new rubber won't cost that much as to get second hand pipes the person will make you pay for the lower half of the plenum 20-50 take it to an exhaust or fab shop, get them to jimmy one up , the paint it, because they'll probably make it out of steel

it's all good dude, your learning i used to know nothing when i first bought mine didn't even know what a turbo was, i had just turned 18, thought i had a GTS, hit the gas, though man this is slow, turbo kicked in, ripped me to the seat, 3 skylines later, about to buy my 4th

look man, sell the car and pay it off Your lucky you haven't been taken to court earlier, I mean crashing into someone and not paying and not having insurance... That's just plain dodgy, if you can't afford insurance, you can't afford a car, simple as that, most insurance companies have options to pay once a month so that's $33 at the most, you probably spent more on petrol per week that that!!! If you don't sell the car or get it repod, the courts will order you to pay back the money till it's gone and bankrupt you. Meaning 7-years and beyond... no bank will let you get a credit card, mortgage, loan... You've basically screwed someone elses pride and joy and haven't paid them for screwing them over, so you will get what you deserve mate.

keep your chin up dude I know the feeling, i've had just over 10 cars in the past 2 years, and recently bought a house(i bought it for the garage and because the missus needed a place to live and I didn't want to go flatting) But yeah, don't get a house, you'll have even less money, What do you do at the moment? Get a higher paying job, there are heaps going round the place :0 or get a weekend job to match the job you have Don't worry about only 426 in the bank, i'm - $1500 on credit card + -260k on the mortgage :S but i'm not worried, money is only an object and I keep paying it every month anyway. I think you should just take things easy, pay back the money in the bank before you do anything else To keep you busy, do the free stuff, I can't afford to do anything now, I work at a uni, so luckily I've got access to a few things, I got a few computer parts off a colleague and I'm getting some dry ice to strip my sound deadener out... That'll keep me busy for a few weeks at least, have you got a buffer and some polish? if not get a chamois and a buffing rag and spend a few days cleaning your car spend a few hours on each panel and you'll love the look, it's cheap to free as well if you already have the things

DAMN!!! looking good man, if only i was over there and not living this side of the ditch Where did you get the rear guards from if you don't mind me asking(PM Me if you need to)? Also damn good idea with the sr20 in there near 50/50 weight split, must be a very flexible car

Yeah definitely sounds like the cooler pipe Double check all connections, vacuum hoses and the AFM connection Unplug the + terminal of the battery, then hit the brakes for a few seconds, then plug it back in it should be back to normal, if it's not, it could be a lot of other things

Even though it won't have the handle specs, just a guestimate on the times and so on, it should have the engine noise I hope If so i'll be buying or ripping it off a mate as soon as it comes out