skybarge

weird, do you have the exact weight of the car? I've got a G-Tech pro RR at home, that's the one with the serial cable to download the data? basically what i do is, plug it in: put in car weight first then calibrate the RPM then do the axis calibration(what a pain in the arse to do) then put in a shift light, i have it starting at 7000(so two lights hit on), then 7500 the four lights go on and I change gear 183hp sounds really shifty though :S I got 194 on my GTS4 auto!!! and a 14.6 1/4, so there must be something odd going on

did anyone test their work connection? mines crazy :S

first time takes round 30 minutes a shock, after that, takes me round 5-10 at the most now two bolts on the top of the suspension, one big one to crack on the bottom basically, undo wheel, undo bottom suspension bolt, 17mm, undo top two 14mm at the front, 12mm at the rear, i think or it could be 12 and 10, then drop the old shocks out, put the new shocks in, bolt them up with a little locktite and you're ready to go

oh gutted, yeah i thought it was a bit complicated, I was trying to follow the autospeed plans, but not totally sure if they'll work yet :S As for the dude asking about the switch above, all you need is a missile 12v switch and some 12v wire say 10ga or 8ga, either get a broken fuse and solder onto each fuse terminal to the switch or cut the wiring, I reckon use a broken fuse, that way it can be easily reversed at anytime

did anyone watch the video? it sounds terrible, pretty sure he'll snap the shaft sooner or later with that much excess drag on the exhaust wheel

Oh true if if had the factory HID xenon lenses then it should be sweet , probably just lense flare off the cellphone it's when people start putting them in halogens when the problems happen , i've seen quite a few 32's and 33s round here blind the crap out of me with HIDs :S

haha looks like it? is that an HID kit? because that is quite a lot of glare, you sure that's not on fullbeam? you must get flashed all the time This explains why they are illegal: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVuSSdZNsZw You could alwasy get GTR R34 Xenon lights for yours and sell off the PNP kit and headlights, or go custom retrofit www.hidplanet.com/forums/ Like Ronin09 did, he did a very nice job too, no glare and a sharp cutoff

haha not here in NZ oh yeah states in our warrant of fitness checks(hid are illegal unless retrofitted with an OEM projector ) I think HIDs standard are illegal in Australia too? well ones without self levelling and washers(R34 xenons etc) the only cars that are allowed them would be the european cars?

all illegal sorry dude, you'll risk others safety, your safety and void your insurance/get pulled over retrofitting to HID is the only option, which involves taking the projector from a factory HID car and putting it into your headlight housing I'm doing mine at the moment, I'll be using a 4300k bulb(white light)

Yeah i was thinking of doing something similar, but using the potentiometer, it's just the costs that are setting me back at the moment Would love to turn it up to like 30-40% Front bias in the wet though and not have to worry about it stepping out slightly when I kick the throttle

Awesome I'll be changing my switch to the front fusebox then, well maybe i"ll have two switches: one connected to dash fuse - for doing burnouts and warming the tyres prior to drags one connected to under bonnet - for general RWD fun and daily driving Yeah I love the feeling too, being that much heavier than the T and the front end being a few kg heavier it's much easier to hold the drifts and it just sits there, although it does drift a lot slower than my T, so I won't be using it on the big drift circuit, only the local drift track we have here

Since you are running it on an rb20 you should be able to run 16-18 pounds safely, on the RB25 it's limit is around 1bar, depending on the wheel specs, as long as you have the ceramic and not the nylon wheel, you'll be fine coils are quite expensive, you might only have one or two bad ones, you can get second handers quite cheap, or go for a wasted spark setup using VL coils and I used VN leads, works fine total cost was $140-160, or you could go splitfire for round $500 As for the spluttering, I think it does sound like an incorrect tune on the SAFC You should: Crank the boost Get it tuned Replace any coils if need be Don't tell your mate Also if you are running the standard dumppipe you might be restricting the flow, you could always opt for a 3"incher to the cat or a 2.5" with a seperate wastegate elbow which joins up somewhere down the front pipe What sort of cat are you running? i've you've only got a catback exhaust with standard cat, you won't be gaining the full potential of your exhaust, I suggest if it's all stock, replace it with a higher flowing cat, or if it's legal in your state - rip it out I've done that to all my cars here in NZ

Greddy/Trust do one from memory, houses 2x 60mm gauges and costs round $86AUS Try Nengun or Greenline(i'd go greenline, nengun will make you wait like 2 months)

yup he's right, it's a circlip, it holds it in just where the rubber oil protecting gearboot is, use two flat headscrew drivers or circlip pliers to remove it

I'll drink to that, a 25 would be a nice change Here's a vid off youtube: I could only find three i slowed it down when it flicked between things and it's definitely a T51R kai, not sure about the engine though --Gazee just pm campbell and ask him yourselves lol-- Haha i might have to he's done a top job

Yep I own a 1989 GTS4 one of the earlier ones, I run mine in 2wd mode quite a bit, just for the hell of it, it drifts nicely, not quite as good as a T because it's heavier but yeah, And it is the same system that the GTR uses as GTST says above, the GTS4 is in RWD mode a lot of the time, try flinging it into a corner(when no one is around and preferably on a closed road or driveway) and you'll see that it slides nicely for a few seconds then the FWD will kick in and you'll get a lot of grip I'm not too sure about the Stagea, I always thought the R33 GTS4 & R33 GTR, Stagea all versions and the R34 GTR didn't like going in with the fuse pulled because the weren't using the same clutch system as the 32 model and their clutch packs start to wear...

Haha you should be fine if you are only pushign round 260-280kw The GTS4 gearboxes are strong as unlike the standard GTS-t ones They are similar strength to the GTR but different ratios apparently, but yeah RIPS and a few others over here in NZ regularly run the GTS4 gearboxes with no trouble, It's basically 3rd gear that you have to be easy on, but that goes for the GTR boxes as well, they tend to strip them if you don't change gently down the strip :S that being said, mines still fine for now...although it's off the road for 6 months for "modifications"...

It's an R33 GTS25t with a T51R bolted to what sounds likr eitehr a 26(possibly stroked) or a 30? Although i could be mistaken it could just be a modded 25?

no it'll be fine just be aware though with the fuse removed ABS stops working, so don't hit the pedal too hard

someone post the video I want to see it!!!!

i think mine was $20 from stupidcheap onsale, seems to work ok Although I'm using a laptop with consult on it to double check my timing afterwards

oh scotty, here is a replacement for the "torque" box you referred to before: Although if you put one of these on, you could get defected made my intake louder than my 3" exhaust, damn the boxer grumble was sexy though

yeah the subarus are slightly different, i had a legacy wagon for a year I think the thing Scotty is thinking of is a resonator in the intake pipe which only subies have, I ended up buying a replacement style pipe for mine, which was a reducer type thing with a pipe off the side, made it much louder. As for the POD problem, I'm going with the guy above: Could be the oil, i know some of the cheaper pods use nasty fish smelling oil which does clog the afms, remove your pod, check your AFM, they usually have a self cleaning device, but the pod oil someones sticks and burns on it, if the wire and metal is not clean, get some brake/carb cleaner and spray it till it's shiny again, give it a few seconds to dry out, then put it back on. The K&N and Apexi filters are better, because they use nicer oil, but if you get the cheap ones some of the time you'll be fine, some of the time you'll have problems.

yeah one set My new lights have arrived too to replace those, you need 2 ballast per headlight, because I'm having two high and two low beams per side It'll look damn good though and Adam is right, the cut off is seriously so nice and sharp, totally worth it for the bling factor, plus with some custom lenses it'll look damn nice it means the front and back will look very similar in terms of lights, both twins

don't buy it they are crap get a dual action orbital one atleast($60+) Or one of the little mothers car polishers Those big 10" ones totally suck, they ruin your paint and leave swirl marks in it