skybarge

check your battery too, if the voltage is slipping below 12v say 11.5 most cheapish kits will start to flicker on one side or both, charge the battery, or even start the car then try the lights, if that's not it, check the connections, after than it'll be the ballast :S

haha who did you lend it to? I'll give him the bash next time your over or i'm over

sorry for the late reply :S sits exactly the same as the standard bonnet no lower or higher, changing the bolts to the other side doesn't hit the radiator eitehr perfectly cheap mod also if you need a cheap 50mm core radiator, go like the one above, same height, mounting points as the R32, just different top pipe location

they are just cheap ones off Ebay, they do look good though, usually cost round $12-$15 each but i wouldn't trust them to do accurate readings If you want good ones try Apexi, Blitz or HKS gauges

yeah the metal sheet Decim8's talking about is in all 32s, 33s and 34s, it's held in by about 8x 10mm threaded bolts, makes a huge difference once you pull it out I don't think it really serves a purpose other than being the rear firewall, which i guess helps stop flames if your fuel tank explodes for long enough for you to get out. not that it really matters though...once your cars on fire you are F**ked anyway

just keep your H1 bulbs and trim the housing down to suit the D2S housing of the HID lights put the H1 bulbs into the HID housing, it'll look ok still, they do it all the time when compliancing, make sure you keep the ballasts and HID bulbs with you though, or the compliancer has every right to destroy them Get the cert, then put the lights back in at home Not sure about the guards/bonnet though, i mean your whole car will be fibreglass at the front, there must be a way round it though, maybe borrow an R34 bonnet in steel for the compliancing? I'm sure someone won't mind driving with your CF bonnet for a weekend while you use theirs

yeah i guess it depends how experienced you are and if you'll ever use the gear again, if you are only doing 1 car it's probably not worth it i've done 3 cars so far and have another 2 to do(my final two skylines before i get a C35 Laurel), the last two will be black, I'll only use my gear for my new cars bodykit, but it's done me well, plus I use it for jobs round the house, you can use the primer guns for spraying garage doors and the other nozzles for blowing dust out of computer cases, you can also buy impact wrenchs, rattle guns, etc, you can also help your mates out if you wanted to, spray their cars for them, get a few $$$ on the side, although losing your garage for a couple of weeks at a time is a bit of a pain

haha i think that's normal, i like the way you describe it as a fart I get it all the time here in NZ, basically the fuel goes in cold, the day gets warmer and it pressurised the tank, if i open it then, it'll try to blow the cap off into my hand but if it goes cold overnight and frosts, it does the same thing you are describing, although I've removed and blocked both my carbon canisters off. because after something like 80000k they are useless anyway and we have no EPA here in NZ....yet.

I got the DX10 version of the demo running from the X64 bin file, so 64bit and DX10 in Vista 64bit and it's amazing!!! I've got it set to low though becuase my 8600GTS sucks has anyone else thought of getting an 8800GT the new one thats just come out? and is much faster than all versions of the 8800GTS and just a margin off the 8800GTX? i like the way in the DX10 version you can shoot trees with the boat and they fall over and crush things, man I'm buying it too Seriously a good reason to upgrade to Vista if only for this game, or you could do the patch thing above

That is some good advice You are right about the gun from supercheap, the nozzle is too big, you'll want about a 1.6-1.4 for spraying the other coat you can get nozzles though I bought a gun off ebay, professional spray HVLP for $150, works mint, I got a cheapie 2.5HP 40L compressor, which is ok, but a tad annoying having to wait for it to refresh every minute or so You'll need a garage, don't do it outside, i did mine outside, it turned out ok, but then when i went to colour sand it, i noticed the tree next to my car had been sinking pollen into the newly done paint leaving craters in it after the sanding, it did shine very well though after a few rubs, but I'm redoing it in my garage to get no pitting. If you do it in your garage, make sure you use the following: - 3M respirator, automotive paint style, comes with 2 dust/paint filters, they work really well cost about $80 - A few old ventilation fans, you want air moving through the garage, not too much, but enough so you don't die, say 2 fans at each end with filters, get them off Ebay.com.au for cheap, or goto a hire place and hire them out. This will also help stop orange peel from occurring. 2k is quite good due to the fact it doesn't need a clear coat most of the time, it can be colour sanded straight down. Gutted about it being illegal, not illegal here in NZ luckily But it is harder to get a good finish on straight away, due to the nature of the paint and the way it's mixed with the thinner, hardener and sticks to things like a son of a bitch Acrylic laquer works well too, but you'll need a clear coat, it's easier to spray and sand, but be prepared for a bit of orange peel and a longer drying time. If you don't have a compressor, gun, fans or any of the other stuff, it might work out cheaper to hire it. Get some mates in one weekend, have a mad sand down of the car, I've got a dual action air sander, which i do mine with, which takes me about 8 hours for the full car, so that's not too bad and the circle sheets of sandpaper aren't too expensive.

hi, i'd say sand it down to about 200 grit, primer 2-3 times, then 400 grit do about 3-5 coats colour clear coat as soon as possible after the colour coats, definitely don't sand it down, unless you wait for the paint to completely harden first(a few days at least) then sand it, basically put the clear over the paint, that way you can clean up any orange peel by sanding back the clear, not the colour coat use 800 grit for bad orange peel, 1200 for standard orange peel, 1500 for low and go all the way upto about 1800 grit, you can then start to buff it, have a rough pad and a polishing pad, it should look mint I'm doing my 3rd car next weekend, I might be able to take a few pics for a full DIY

hey Flash, THose projectors will fit but ask them to send you the RHD ones, not the LHD ones, otherwise your light output will be facing the wrong side of the road, so instead of lighting up cateyes, you'll be lighting up peoples houses I've almost finished one of my headlights now, it's taking a while longer than expected, due to budget reasons, but I'll post a picture up of my first one finished. I might only ever get one finished though, because I'm going to be selling both my cars and going for a C35 Laurel, then modding that, just to save money on petrol at the moment, has the base RB25 Neo engine though, so I'm sure i could RB30 it later on

They gasket you are looking for is called the "Collector" gasket I think usually round $20 from Ripco, although mine wasn't in stock when I went to get an Rb20det one so I ended up buying 0.8mm thick gasket paper and used that since I needed the AAC and throttle body gaskets too

Nice guide here's the 32: R32 1. Pull out ashtray like below, undo two screws behind it 2. Flathead screwdriver under the rear of the center console, push up, it will pop out 3. Flathead screwdriver under the top half of center console, pops out, remove center console, or turn it around 4. Undo 4 screws, two either side of headunit, pull headunit out 5. Undo cage holding onto headunit, refit to new headunit, finish wiring off and put back in hole 6. Refit going backwards from 4

not worth it man, I had a set, $1250NZD didn't bolt straight on had to dent my underpanels to get it to fit + cut the guard. I took them off in the end, they look terribly rice, won't comply with any regs, I had to get a cert if i wanted to use them $320 not sure what you'd do over there with the ADR Regs. Also, you don't save much space and if you park that close to cars, then you shouldn't be driving if someones parked bad in a carpark, i just park mine as close to their drivers door as possible, so i've got space to get out they can get in through their passneger door if they need to. So yeah, if you want to spend $2500(incl fitting and install) go for it

Keep the current one What most people do for stock exhaust 2.25" GTS-t round 2.75" for a GTR is replace it form the catback, GTR/GTS-t catbacks are the same, it's only the front pipe which is different. Your 3.5" exhaust is definitely large enough for the power goals you are chasing, even a 3" would do for that power

That's not bad, nice install, pity about the gear though Maybe sell the gear, get a nice 1000watt RMS amp and a IDQ12 for some real kick arse sound Also lose the farrad capacitor on small systems like that they don't do much at all to be honest

pull the fuel pump fuse, remove your sparkies, fill with oil and crank for 30 seconds definitely replace your fuel and fuel filter, otherwise it'll run rough if at all Just started mine up after 2.5 years sitting in my garage Runs ok, just need to get the timing sorted

oh yeah this and Crysis next month w00t I can see myself not leaving the house for a bit

hmmm, in that case yeah, take the one with the better zoom, get some shots of the girls standing round the cars if there are no skylines

Take the FE220, it's an ok camera, good for personal shots and things, the other one is a bit old, round 4-5 years i'm guessing? and only 4MP vs 7.1, not that MP matters, it's all about image quality, optical zoom and ISO, both have pretty low zooms 3x and 4x, So i reckon the FE220 If you are looking into getting into real good photography later on, I'd recommend if you're on a budget of say $500 get the FujiFilm S5700 and a 2-4gb SD card + some rechargable AA batteries, it takes nice quality photos 10x optical zoom, good for point and shoot work or hardcore styles a Canon 30D or 40D then say a 35-200mm lense, will easily set you back a few grand, usually round 3k Make sure you post the pics up of any good skylines at the show have fun dude

damn hope something like this comes to NZ, it's still way too expensive for me

Are they still calling it Colin McRae Dirt? I heard they were just calling it Dirt now? well in the UK and US they are, due to the accident

Haha i like the 2nd paragraph which states: By 1996 the 2.0L engine was producing 160hp and the Skyline won more than 50 races in the next 3 years.... Sounds like a badly written Herald article, your brother doesn't live in Auckland or Hamilton does he?

to sort the leaning out problem, get the injectors flow tested put the largest flowing injector in the 6th cylinder, second largest in the 5th etc all the way to the lowest flowing injector in the 1st cylinder should fix the leaning out issue