skybarge

yeah i'm doing my retrofit slowly at the moment just spend $4k on a holiday over New Years for me and the gf, so yeah :S it'll be January before I get the testing done on them I'll get some more pics up in the next couple of weeks, just waiting for a new grinder blade and some plexiglass for the lenses/shrouds, then the cutting will begin

what about an auto electrician? They get paid about the same as mechanics, in some cases more Do an apprenticeship basically start off with the small stuff, installing alarms, stereos, speakers etc Then you move onto wiring up engine looms, powerFCs etc Then you get to go into tuning them eventually I reckon do that, that'll keep your dad quiet about the "electric cars" thing, because you'll be positioned to move straight onto those if that ever becomes common place over the next 20-30 years, which somehow i doubt at the moment, but I could be proven wrong

yeah go the GTS, it'll be cheaper and for that amount you should be able to pickup a 4-door non turbo R34 The R33 GTS4, which I guess you are looking at, is very very heavy and slow, the R32 only have a 4wd turbo GTS4, otherwise if you were lucky you could find the 2.6L Autech skyline, GT-B i think it was called, 4wd rb26de, quite quick apparently, but you won't get one for cheap :S and it'll be too hard to find, i don't know of anyone with one in Australia or New Zealand :S So either R33 GTS or R34, depending on budget and if you want 2-door coupe ro 4-door sedan

I use a laser mouse, i'm part nerd due to my job Nah, seriously though, if you want a mouse that works on every surface, is extremely reliable and uses one set of batteries every 6 months try a laser, I've got a laser desktop, wireless keyboard and mouse set, only cost just over $100 http://pcpacific.net/product_info.php?products_id=1786 There is no cool red light like an optical, but when you have an optical running on batteries and change them once a week or so, it gets pretty annoying

Yeah i think you are definitely right, 2.5" sounds the same size as my old ones, I'll see if I've got the old lense lying round at home tonight I know my new ones are only 2" each so pretty small. I'll have to make some custom shrouds for each of them to stop the light coming though. Damn, I hope my cutoff is as sharp as that, with maybe a hint of blue towards the top, I love the way it illuminates everything, that HakNSlash is crazy, I had a look as his 4wd, he has such a wide angle on those lenses, no wonder rally drivers are starting to use them imagine 4 of those in a pod on the bonnet, without the shield

Yeah Adam is right, The reason you are getting the glare/hotspots is because your bulb is too far from the lense in the halogen style setup, the lense is a different shape from an HID lense and your glass headlight cover has flutes in it. I'm creating plastic lenses with no flutes(lines) in them, to try and get rid of all hotspots, I've gone for 4 OEM projectors out of a Nissan Murano, which after a bit of cutting are nearly fitting in the standard headlights: The second one is too far forward in this photo, it needs some cutting Not quite even here, but you can see how clear the HID lenses are and how small they are, most halogen ones are quite large and pretty flat when you look at them sideways, these are about twice as thick as my old ones This is the old shroud, which I'm keeping, basically creating another circle where the rectangle hole is out of plastic, in the same shape as the circle on the right, then off to the plastic metalizer to get chromed I should have it done in a few months, after I've paid off some bills, so I'll post up a full tutorial of it, you can always keep the hid kits for now, then later on when you want to retrofit, buy the projectors, then get a D2S or D2R bulb to suit the HID projector and use the kits ballast to keep costs down, or sell it and buy an OEM ballast and bulb

haha yeah you can see the hotspot in the middle :S that's what mine were doing, bought two kits oh well you live and learn just recieved 4x bi-xenon projectors, so I'll write a tutorial up soon kind of like ronins, but with twin HID projectors, custom shrouds, hopefully plastic metalized to get the chrome look, then with custom perspex covers Be good to finally get them done, just waiting for some more $$$

sell it or risk getting defected or losing your insurance

Sorry dude, there is no way you'll be able to concentrate the light to the correct spot it'll have hotspots and glare with almost anything to you do to it The only way to properly fix it is to install HID projectors, I've bought a set of 4x FX45 ones for mine, with high/low in each lense and I'm making custom clear perspex covers. It's the only way to go sorry man, check out Ronins HID thread, do a search for HID Conversion and you'll find his, he's done a nice job or check out HIDplanet.com/forums

wierd, R4's are the 4speed, that's that the 4 stands for Jatco RE4R01A which is standard in most skylines, are you sure you haven't got that? Which shop are you talking about? Might be good to talk to MV Automatics or Knox Automatics, they'd know what fits your box. I think they use a manual valve body upgrade from a Nissan Patrol in their kits with some welsh plugs to block off some of the holes If you have the 5-speed it's be: Jatco JR507E transmission which is what come in Cimas, Presidents and a few other V8s and things and possibly some skylines, if you've got the 5 on your box number, then maybe someone put int a v8 box, changed the bellhousing, tailshaft and a few other things to get a longer drive ratio, it's a tad strange though

yeah that's right :0 they all have the same bolt patterns on the waterpump just make sure the clutch fan is still ok, because the rb30s are old and some of the fan clutches might have worn out, causing it not to spin properly

oh you mean the 4-speed auto standard is 4-speed with OD - whoops i mean't 4 speed in this changed it now not sure why the shift kit won't fit in it though? as they are the same model number? and have mostly the same parts? what number is on the box itself?

hahahaha, i've done that too i had to use a bottle cap to secure the hole till i could get home to fix it :S mine ended up snapping off a bolt , must been partially worn in the first place to go as bad as it did though

Alright here goes, sorry about the crappy pics, must bumper, ligths and other things are off at the moment, because i'm stripping it fora respray Here are the existing bolt holes, with bolts removed, I drilled through to the rear of these These are how the bolts sit now, backwards to where they were, with the radiator still fitting in nicely This shows my radiator, if fits with the stadnard one, but that one is a 240sx(180sx) radiator from the states, 55mm thick triple core, best of all if only cost me $220NZD plus a $10 top pipe from a commonwhore from stupidcheap auto, very cheap and good upgrade, fully recommend it do a search for aluminum 240sx radiator on ebay and get one All i had to do was tap a hole for the water temp sender and the thing never even gets over 1/2 way even without hte fan running sitting at idle for 30 minutes Bottom pipe lines up perfectly, goes into existing radiator holes what it looks like now, see how the bolts are at the back and the catch is about 1"(2.5cm furthur back) Testing the latch Clicks closed perfect Test subject - R32 GTR Fibreglass replica bonnet with intake vent and radiator vent

Yep what they said the coils are the same, the shocks are different :S the rear shocks have an eyelet on the GTS4 while the GTS-t are the wrong way round and have a different joiner get some nice coilovers to suit a GTR and set it low and hard

i'd go full auto in power mode, tiptronic would just slow you down

hey man i got your PM, I'll get a pic up tonight when i get home Basically here's a rundown: remove current latch you'll see the two bolt holes, get a drill say a 10mm drill piece, drill straight through the bolt holes to the back of the reinforcement bar, then you move the latch about 1" towards the engine and bolt it to the new holes you use the bolts inside the engine bay in exactly the opposite way of when you have the latch in it's normal position, I'll post up the technique and what it looks like tonight

oh yeah more than my car is worth at the moment :S

yeah go with a JVC headunit round $250-280 for a stnadard MP3 one $350-450 for a DVD one then all the music you can handle + if you add in a screen, mobile movies I've got the DVD one in mine, but I need a decoder to support 5.1 surround oh well, 4 speaker + sub is fine for now

yeah Felix got dicked with his engine, 1 year wait then POS http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/80137-r3...html#post721920"]RB30 SydneyKid build for Felix://http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/upload/8...build for Felix Infact Felix paid $8000AUD, he could've converted that to NZD last year and go just over $10k which is the starting rate for a RIPS forged package :S RB30 Bare forged bottom ends (short block), start at NZD$10,450 (suit minimum 750hp and 8000 rpm) Ripsltd.co.nz oh well, you live and learn, could've paid a bit extra and gone to RIPS for an RB30, as for suspension and brakes and other things SydneyKid definitely knows what he is doing, I can definitely see why Felix is pretty pissed, that's a lot of money :S

yeah I've heard the same about sunroofs, somethign to do with the UV treated glass already being put in, so it blocks most of the UV rays and is factory tinted not sure about it cracking though :S never seen it crack, it just looks ultra crap when they are tinted beyond the factory spec

yeah the break in period is fun If you are going Naturally aspirated, usually don't rev it too hard for the first 1000km, use a mineral based oil, good quality but definitely not synthetic If you are going turbo, the easiest thing to do is just remove the wastegate actuator flap, so it's open, or the spring if it's external I think after the break in, drain the oil and put a good synthetic in there then get a better tune and crank out the fun 4th gear burnouts with vids FTW

these should do the trick $7.39USD + $18USD shipping so so round 35AUS not bad http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Car-Vehicle...sspagenameZWDVW

hey man, Lights are the same, as long as you have bugeye with GTR grille connectors or the N1 lights as for the bonnet catch, you can either use a GTR one like above, or get the GTS-t one, move it to the back of the support so drill holes behind hte exist holes and move it about 1-2cm furthur back did that when I got my GTR fibreglass bonnet, works very well

It only does it on the 33s they have a clear plastic panel you can do it on the 32s, but you'd need to cut out the skyline lettering and replace it with a light in behind it and perspex or create a custom EL one I'd go for the custom EL one