Fanta R33GTR

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yeah...... it has a 3 year warranty from the dealer, so I dropped it into them and will let them sort it out. Not much i can do. Thanks

is there a easy way to test if to see if it is the pump at fault ?

this car has no additional fans. Only the one big one attached to the engine. I know some cars also have another one on front of the air con radiator, but this car only has the one.

My 250gtm is overheating .. .help. this is what happens. when driving with load on the engine (e.g air con on or going up long hills) , the temp get up to about 3/4 way. Normally sits at around just below 1/2 way. Under normal driving without the air con on and flat motoway / city driving it stays at normal temp. You can sit on idle without overheating. Doesn't seem to be related to the air con as I can replicate the overheating by driving around with the brakes slightly on to simulate load. I've had the car 2 years. Engines done 55K and been serviced regularly It just had a full service a few weeks before the problem occured. New oil and oil filter and air filter etc. Didn't touch the cooling system. Oil is the same thats been used for last two years - magnatec and level is good. I flushed coolant after the over heating problem occurred. My wife got it so hot going up hill with 5 ppl in the car that the coolant overheated started to pour out steam from the top of the expansion/reserviour tank. checked all the fuses and coolant pipes. no leaks. this 250gt has no additional radiator fan part from the main one attached to the engine. what could it be ?

I agree , if you can take the calipers off, do it. 1) I couldn't - they were to tight 2) I had just done all the brake fluids not long before and i didn't want to do it again I haven't noticed any drop in braking performance. Even if you do get paint and paint remover on your pads and rotors, first session of aggressive driving you do with heavy braking is just going to burn the stuff right off. I know this, because I got some serious paint on my rotors while painting the center hubs black a few week after this project and it just took about 5km of driving with heavy braking for all the paint on the rotors to get scraped off by the pads.

the orginal logo is a high temp paint job, but it liiks like the clear coat on it starts to chip pretty easily after a certian age. get a signwriter to make you a negative image (masking) Same logo as this fronts = 8.5cm x 1.7cm rears = 5cm x 1cm

1) I tried and i couldn't , too hard. 2) I had just bled the entire brak system and changed all fluids about a month ealier to this project and did not want to go through it all again I think the dark suits the car. It's a white GTR, if i'd made it anything else like blue, red, or yellow you'll just look like a douche It's personal preference I guess. This project was more about restoring the Brembo's to the orginal state as oppossed to pimping it out. If your car is yellow then the yellow might suit... personally I think anything apart from black or grey gives off a rice boy racer vibe and gets you the wrong kind of attention Get good quality spay paint. Doesn't have to be hi-temp nessesarily. If you just drive around the city and motorways the acutall calipers don't get that hot. Just amke sure to cure it properly before taking it out for a drive. otherwise all that hard work will be ruined

took around 2 hours per wheel , including preptime. The whole project took a few days because it's important to let the paint cure

it is very hard to take the calipers off, and get the pads back in and refill the brake lines. Trust me is was easier to just mask off and paint.

happy to report, i;ve has the installation for about 18 months and all is good, no sagging what so ever and i've painted it all nice and sanded it.

I had a KnN wet oil pod setup but changed it to HKS I had the green HKS pods with hard pipes for a while and they were OK. But I have now changed to simota urathae pods. They are a dry type pod that is molded from a single piece. they work great. Just wash them in soapy water every 6 months and put them back in. They are much bigger then the HKS ones so more surface area for the air to be drawn in from. http://www.simota.com.au/ go to air-filters, page 3 2 of these fit a R33 GTR perfect Can't remember what size my ones are, i think the larger ones Thanks

thanks guys, epic stuff. the temp sensor for the GTR is on the plenum so some of the heat from the block would sink into the plenum the longer the car is run. Thats for clearing that up. Feel ok about my temps now. This morning i went for a long drive and it didn't go above 35, so I guess i should be happy

After a year and a half of my power FC sititng around in my attic, i finally got soichi to install and tune it. Questions my intake air temp is getting to 40c-45c degrees , is that normal. other power fc users, what is your water and air temp reading? I have pods and a heat shield. I even have water sprayers on my intercooler. I live in auckland and on a hot day you can expect the outside temp to be 20ish at best. The water temp gets to around 85c degrees max. I think this is normal and ok. Specs. R33 GTR Mods : Forged internals - unknown brand HKS Split Dump Pipes Trust Front Pipe Custom bent 3" tripple muffler exhaust Tomei Adjustable intake and exhaust cams Blitz heat range 8 racing spark plug Dual urathane Pod Filters Trust 100mm thick intercooler Trust 9 row oil cooler Apexi Boost controller Kit Apexi Power FC with Commander Everything else is stock Turbos, fuel pump, injectors etc.. Power went up from 183 awkw to 264awkw

After a year and a half of my power FC sititng around in my attic, i finally got soichi to install and tune it. Specs. R33 GTR Mods : Forged internals - unknown brand HKS Split Dump Pipes Trust Front Pipe Custom bent 3" tripple muffler exhaust Tomei Adjustable intake and exhaust cams Blitz heat range 8 racing spark plug Dual urathane Pod Filters Trust 100mm thick intercooler Trust 9 row oil cooler Apexi Boost controller Kit Apexi Power FC with Commander Everything else is stock Turbos, fuel pump, injectors etc.. Power went up from 183 awkw to 264awkw Questions my intake air temp is getting to 40c-45c degrees , is that normal. other power fc users, what is your water and air temp reading?

I've got a 250GT, and i've just done an oil change using magnatec 10w-40. The users manual recommends 10w-40 for the widest range or external conditions, so i figured it was the safest bet. What do you guys reckon.

I had the same problem a while back. I just cut off a 2cm long piece of standard garden hose and shoved it in the latch. Works a treat and you don't even have to remove the lid to push it in.

Any shop that can make decals will be able to make this stencil. Most signwriters that use vinyal cut lettering etc. I got a local signwriter to make them for me. Thanks

So, I decided a few weeks ago to paint my brembo brakes on my GTR. They were all chipped due to stones, it is a 1996 after all. The last 2 years on NZ roads probably did more damage then it's entire life in Japan To begin, mask off everything, and wash down the calipers with hot soapy water. You'll need some Brembo stencils. Any shop that makes decals will be able to do this for you. Paint Stripper Brembo Stencils After the first application of the stipper You may need to apply the stripper several times to clean off the factory paint. After all the paint is off, sand back the calipers with 400 grit wet and dry FRONT REAR You can either use hi temp paint or caliper paint. I've gone with a metallic charcoal. 2 coats should do the trick FRONT REAR Important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LET THE PAINT CURE FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU PROCEED The stencil may damage the paint if you don't Attach the stencil mask Peel back the top protection of the stencil mask. Ready to spray the logo FRONT REAR About 3 coats are nessary as the metallic charcoal is quite dark. Hi Temp White You can apply a clear coat for a more glossy finish and extra protection. FRONT REAR It takes a few days for the paint to cure properly so, best to avoid driving for a few days if you can.

So, I decided a few weeks ago to paint my brembo brakes on my GTR. They were all chipped due to stones, it is a 1996 after all. The last 2 years on NZ roads probably did more damage then it's entire life in Japan To begin, mask off everything, and wash down the calipers with hot soapy water. You'll need some Brembo stencils. Any shop that makes decals will be able to do this for you. Paint Stripper Brembo Stencils After the first application of the stipper You may need to apply the stripper several times to clean off the factory paint. After all the paint is off, sand back the calipers with 400 grit wet and dry FRONT REAR You can either use hi temp paint or caliper paint. I've gone with a metallic charcoal. 2 coats should do the trick FRONT REAR Important !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LET THE PAINT CURE FOR A FEW DAYS BEFORE YOU PROCEED The stencil may damage the paint if you don't Attach the mask Peel back the top protection of the mask. Ready to spray the logo FRONT REAR About 3 coats are nessary as the metallic charcoal is quite dark. Hi Temp White You can apply a clear coat for a more glossy finish and extra protection. FRONT REAR It takes a few days for the paint to cure properly so, best to avoid driving for a few days if you can.

That bracing does add a little stiffness, but is only a real advantage if your driving hard. It won't straight into a GTS, but you may be able to modify it fit in. Not sure.

The sub is an 8" Kicker square sub. It provides around th same punch as a 10" or 12". It's a dual coil sub so it's a little more expensive but needs less volume. the volume of the sub is around 30 litres and molded to fit around the computers in the boot. The amp is a Alpine 350 Dimensions Width 9.5 in. Depth 10.5 in. Height 2.31 in. It's actaully really easy to get the sub and amp in and out (after you've undone the 20 or so bolts for all the rear bracing and struts)

Thats the reason why I went for a very well known brand of amp. The P4004 has a huge heatsink surface and plenty of heatsink mass. I've measured the temp, using a infared thermometer, after a 90min drive with the music pumping and the hottest part on the heatsink was only 32deg, so even in summer I don't expect the amp to get above 40deg. I was initally going to go with the jaycar 100x4 amp, but it's more compact and runs much hotter.

The middle MDF is supported on the left side by the amp base and on the right also by the false floor base. To stop it sagging I have run 2 pieces of 2cmx2cm square aluminium tubing along the backside of the middle piece (in the photo's you can see 2 lines of screws that run along the middle piece, these fix the aluminium to the mfd) You can put enough weight on this setup to push the suspension on the car down without any sag. I used 9mm MDF. The middle board clears the cap by about .5cm, no weight is supported by the cap. Mounting the MDF to the boot floor without making any unreversible changes was a real challenge. The left side (amp) - There are 2 bolts that come up throught the floor. They are holding up the heatsheild for the muffler. I replaced these bolts with longer ones to give me something to bolt the floor base to. Right side - On this side also there are 2 small bolts that come up through the floor. These are not long enough to mount the board onto, so I made up a metal plate that bolts onto the existing bolts. The plate has longer bolts attached to it so I can mount the floor to it. I know it sounds a little confusing.. i'll upload more pics to clarify tomorrow.

Really.. I always thought that was standard R33 GTR equipment ? Thanks