R33LIN
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Posts posted by R33LIN
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hey all
not sure if i am posting in the right section, but i just need some advice.
i just got the timing belt and all the other anxillary belts changed. the belts are new, so the mechanic decided to tension the belts a little abit more.
my question is: is it ok to tension all the belts a bit more? would that cause any adverse effects?
and also after the timing belt has changed is there any 'rules of thumb' like you should drive it easy for the next 100km or can you just drive how you normally do?? i ask this because i know with clutches and brakes theres that "bedding" in stage. i was just wondering do i have do the same with the timing belt.
i'm just after some advice,
hopefully someone can help, cheers in advance
Kind regards,
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My extreme XHD 9puk ceramic with the std flywheel went for ~40,000km's before I started noticing slip on hard gear changes. Slip to the point where you have to back off the throttle and then jump back on it for it to hook up. At 60,000km's and it slips like buggery.
And it was only making ~200rwkw but a fair bit of torque as that was around 4500rpm. :S
The XHD is stupidly heavy. I curse it every time I'm in traffic, not because of the ceramic grab but because of how heavy the bastard is.
cheers for that cubes,
i do hope my clutch lasts for a while though. its only 10,000kms old
the costs of a clutch and the associated labour is painful, definitely dont want to fork out that amount of money anytime soon.
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Cheers for the link EUG,
thats an awesome write up you got there. looks neat and very professional
good work mate,
kind regards,
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damn!!!
thats a mess.
just out of curiosity was that a r32 box? and was this a High RPM clutch dump?
hope no one was injured
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all that means is that you havent built up enough revs when selecting the next gear... hence the thud. if your skipping from 1st to 3rd make sure you have the revs and speed built up otherwise it will always thud... 1st to 3rd with revs under 3rpm will thud.
does it happen from 1st to 2nd?
often when i see some ppl tring to do a cook through the gears they change gears to early... thuding in between shifts
wouldnt be to good on your running gear... clutch too!
^^^^^ Agreed.
i get this thud at times too, its only when i am changing at lowish revs though.
cheers
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I'm not too sure for you, I'm getting the cushioned button as I still want some drivability for my daily, but need a lot more bite than an organic. Have driven an Extreme cushioned button and it was nice.
hey mate,
ive got an extreme HD cushion button and i can vouch its a definitely nice clutch to drive, clamp well... and definitely not too heavy either. As BAMR33 has said, they are quite bitey and need to be engaged without riding it. pretty much need to be on or off.
though i am not too sure if it will be able to hold 300rwkw. anyone who has tried and test want to shed some light on this.
btw BAMR33 how long have you had your clutch for, How many KMs? how much power are you running? i hope my clutch lasts for a while still.
cheers
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hey mate,
it depends on what your after either a custom set up or a aftermarket jap brand. if your after custom, i would pay your local exhaust shop a visit as they can tailor an exhaust system to what you want:
style, noise level, performance etc... but if your after a japanese brand i would try the for sale section as there tends to be second hand exhaust systems floating around. Or as members have said up there try the sponsors such as justjap etc...
hope that helps,
cheers
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Doubt it. ATF is basically a hydraulic fluid, gearbox needs a lubricant.
+1
i personally wouldnt be using ATF. ive read on here its definitely not good for the manual box. just use castrol vmx80 (i think thats it!?)
cheers
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Just talking to a mates dad who is a ex cop and he was saying a cop must hand out 50 fines a year and now its gone up 20%
its a sad fact! but unfortunately not really much we can do about it.
but ive heard this as well. something about cops have to meet quotas or esle they are get into trouble. i guess these days the police business is not about catching the crims and serving the community but more becoming about meeting "quotas".
definitely, a revenue-raising operation.
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Adelaide crows!
then again i dont mind the Power.
and yes i do agree the crows are in alot of trouble atm. i fear they may miss the finals with their current poor form. the crows vs eagles game was shocking! poor skills and poor execution.
just an update: Basset is out for a minimum of 6-8 weeks..
meh... theres always next year.
Carn the crows!
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hey guys
does anyone know how much do the oem skylines and bendix ulitmate pads go for? and where can i get these
cheers in advance!
cheers!
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Are there any legal issues with removing the brake light in the wing and replacing with a drift wing?
I dont have a brake light in the rear parcel shelf so if i put a drift wing on the only brake lights I will have will be the stove tops.
Anyone ever been pinged for removing the brake light in the wing?
Cheers
hey mate,
not sure what the rules are in other states, but in SA. you need a brake light at eye-level. so either a light in the spoiler or a brake light in the rear parcel self. so i suggest to go to your transport place in your state, ask them if its a defect and yeah go from there.
but i have a feeling you'll need one. they can be bought from places like supercheap auto etc... and are easily wired.
hope that helps!
cheers
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Well i tried Pauls idea.. No go..
So It got the better of me so with no other idea i removed all coil packs and plugs
gave them all a big kiss put it all back together and now its al fine..Fixed
hey mate,
glad to hear that you sorted your problems out.
my friend had the same problem as you. purred like any rb should when cold, but when it reached the operating temp, the car would pop, splutter and sound like a rexxie. this problem seemed to caused him poor fuel economy as well.
all in all the problem was a shot coilpack. since then, its been replaced and no more dramas,
cheers
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got around to modyfying my snorkel so its still usable. required a bit of measurement and math but in a nutshell...
1)i just cut out the left hand side of the snorkel.
2)bent some titanium to match the width of the hole i cut out. (bent the ends in, then screwed it to the plastic)
3)then used a high temp silicone to glue it and 100% seal.
4)then painted..
nice work mate, cheers for the pics. defintely looks the goods,
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WTF? what retard told you that?
Regardless, the question should be 'why do you want to change the pod filter?' it's going to make stuff all performance difference.... save your money
+1
LOL...how about keeping the original air flow meter, with a Apexi Pod Filter head?
does it do the same induction?
any performance drop or whatsoever? :sorcerer:
hrms the pod filter screws on at the air flow meter. irregardless of whether you use a panel filter or a pod i am pretty sure u have to have the afm (correct me if i am wrong!). with the pod, you do hear an induction noise. if sounds/noises is all you want then you could always take off the stock air box cover. that should give you some induction noise
hope that helps!
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hey mate, are the pods still for sale?
any chance you got pics of the pods on your car? would love to see how they look.
very interested
cheers.
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I think we should have a thread for stolen cars and parts,like a crimestoppers for SAU. I know calaisturbo.com.au have one and it has help them out
+1, agreed!
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Hey guys, just wondering what clutches/flywheel combos you have for a car running close to or near 250rwkw, and how you'd rate it, jim berry not included(reason being im in new zealand, so its cost too much in shipping for me).
Id like something near stockish in feel, good in day to day traffic(daily driven to work in rush hour all the time), and can handle on its own. ive got an r33 rb25det auto, soon to go manual, and car is making around 200rwkw atm. Please help
cheers
when my clutch went, i went for an xtreme heavy duty cushion button, its slightly heavier than stock but the clutch feels pretty stockish and firm. good for daily street, and the odd spirited drive, drift, drag. before i went for this clutch, the clutch place advised me it could hold 250rwkw comfortably.
you could also try kudos motorsport on here, they sell exedy heavy duty clutches at a good price.
hope that helps!
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whats kind of boost can stock intercooler handle?
imo, i wouldnt increase boost through the stock smic. due to the small dimensions of smic it gets "heat-soaked" pretty quickly on stock boost. i mean you can up the boost, but be aware that your smic will get heat soaked even quicker.
invest in a bigger fmic and your away.
hope that helps!
cheers
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I have RB25, I wouldnt mind 250rwkw, What are the capabilities of stock injectors?
I was told i should be able to get upto 15psi on stock injectors and ecu.
hrms, not too sure if the stock ecu can handle 15psi...
anything over 12+ psi and your in rich and retard territory. though some sau'ers are lucky to get 14psi with no rich and retard on the stock ecu.
just my two cents...
cheers
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Turbo seal could be gone or piston rings are fried. My bro had same thing with bluish smoke and it was piston rings. If so, start looking for a new engine. Do a comp test.
i agree with ^^^
firstly, get a compression test (gives you an good indication of whats the go) and from there decide what you want to do...engine rebuild, forged pistons etc...
goodluck mate!
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^^ K&N high flow panel filter.
if you had to go pod. then id go apexi power intake.
+1, APEXI power intake for the win!
though have it shielded with a cold air feed offcourse!
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yeah mate, 15k is a good price
though as long as your happy with it then its all good!
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hey daniel,
looks the goods mate, well done!
The Day I Lost Faith
in South Australia
Posted
hey mate,
unfortunately you have definitely been screwed over, as Tangles has said report it and see where it takes you. i would be interested to hear how this all goes.
goodluck mate
keep us informed
cheers!