The first and only Akeenan?
Hmmm...
I recall something in my first year here in Japan. A bit long winded but bare with me...
A friend of mine who I met in Oz had returned from his working holiday and we hooked up in Yokohama and had a bit of a chat about whats going on, how life is...the usual.
The subject turns to Matsuri ( festivals ) and he mentions a Mikoshi Matsuri ( shrine festival ) thats being held in Asakusa ( the Sanjya Matsuri ) and its apparently a really big deal in Tokyo. I had little idea except for the really heavy portable shrines they carry around in these events...and that was about it.
It turns out that Tomo has some...how should i put this...seedier than usual connections. I always likened him to a chimpira but it turns out he was a little more than that and i had no idea. Arrangements were made and i met him and one of his buddies at the station and hes got this package for me. Inside is the full kit - a pair of Tabi, a happi and not least of all, a fundoushi. This kit basically consists of a pair of shoes, a robe and a ...*cough* nappy ( bright red by the way )
I strip off in a toilet and Tomos in there getting this crazy nappy wrapped around me and i was thinking "What the f**k is going on with this thing?" On goes the robe and the shoes. That was it apparently. Id forgotten how uncomfortable a nappy can be...
Then he hands me a green bandanna and now im part of the "team"...whatever that team was i didnt know.
I meet the "crew"
- these guys looked hard as f**k and i have to admit i was a little intimidated at first but intros were made and beer soon came and we were chatting - me with very bad Japanese and they with patchy English. Fun enough. One guy had a plaster cast from an...altercation the month before. He participated regardless.
Im wandering around soaking it all up. Theres guys with missing pinky fingers everywhere and im not kidding. Ive never seen so many hands with one digit missing in the same place, ever. I knew i was in deep with guys i wouldnt want to mess with. Being gaijin actually kept me on a different level and away from the trouble that broke out frequently. There were fights going on here, there, everywhere. It was madness. So much energy was buzzing through the 2 square blocks we were located in it was palpable... and it hadnt even started yet!!
Heres an example...
The "event" kicks off with a jostling challenge with some guy standing on a platform screaming at the two teams to go for it and see who is the strongest and worthy of carrying the mikoshi first!! It was crazy i tell you. You have never seen anything like it. It was like this massive brawl broke out and there were people everywhere wrestling and some throwing punches to get "control" of this portable shrine!
There were people EVERYWHERE - body to body and thrashing, writhing, chanting, sweating, screaming, dancing block after block. I was in the middle of this.
SO RE, SO RE, SO RE
There were police but they stuck to the sides of the street and didnt even get in the way. They just stood there and watched! I distinctly remember women coming up to this pulsing throng of people, 3 month old baby in hand dancing around as the mikoshi passed within centimetres of her. Pure madness. So much energy...ive never felt anything like it. It was almost indescribable. On at least 4 occassions i found myself under this 2 tonne mikoshi straining against a massive tide of shifting weight. It was really frightening but the rush of adrenaline quickly made me forget that.
Seriously, you can die at these things. One wrong move and the thing will crush at least a dozen people. Its happened before. I was pressed against a wall a number of times and was too charged up to seriously panic.. The proximity to immovable solid objects and this massive moving bouncing mikoshi was intimidating, to put it lightly.
This went on for an hour at least. I dont recall when it finished but we circulated a couple of blocks and doubled back down one way streets a couple of times. The mikoshi was HEAVY. I cant explain how this crushing weight didnt give me an injury but people are subbing in and out all the time...girls too. You have to ride the flow of the bounce otherwise you get a crushing pile of downward force from the mikoshi meeting your shoulder as its coming up.
Not pleasant. It hurt. A lot.
Heres me in the sandwich. The expressions say it all.
Soon after this, I ended up in a very awkward position. I was moving in the queue right behind one of the craziest tattooed people ive ever seen. The guy directly in front of me was HARDCORE. Full body iruzumi...all colour. Sleeve cut. Left pinkie missing. He had these massive bulges on either side of his neck that looked to me like tennis ball sized mounds of black pus. It turns out these were a by product of his training for das like this!!!
Im behind this guy, cant move, being slightly suffocated by the sheer weight of the proximity to the people around me - the heat was choking and here's this guy, the scariest looking human ive come across and ive got a hand on his back trying to support myself! Its hard to find the words when I reflect on the experience. I was lucky, i suppose.
We had to carry the mikoshi to a certain spot where rituals were performed and under the Mikoshi, we did a couple of circles and then a different chant was thrown out and with that, it was finally put down on the ground. Everyone was thoroughly exhausted.
It was simply a massive orgy of unadulterated, unbridled energy that was channeled somehow into transporting this behemoth of a shrine in weight a few streets but the effort we all expended getting it there was huge. I have never and will never again probably experience anything like it for the rest of my life...and thats not necessarily a bad thing.
Its an experience many have said i was extremely fortunate to experience and one i will never forget.
At the end, were all talking in little pockets, people from green and orange, like nothing had just taken place, like the end of a football game had just been sounded...and the iruzumi man comes over with his mate.
It turns out Tomo knows him and introduces me to him. He speaks English, somewhat broken English and asks my name. I reply and comment on the magnificent tattoo. It truly was a work of art. The price for this type of work he said was incredible and not just anyone can get this done to them. All i was wondering was what i was going to say next in the hope i didn't offend him. I needn't have worried. He asked me where i was from and i replied "Australia."
"Australia?", he said and i wasnt sure if he hated me for being an Australian in Japan...but...
"I like Australia! Nice people. Good food. I visit sometimes. But customs stops me all the time and searches my bags. I dont understand."
Im speechless and let out a sigh of relief that i am in fact safe and will not die today and that he likes Oz. It was a good sign.