47une

r33cruiser: Finally someone with something constructive and factual. Yeah, they are definitely water hoses of some sort, I am just wondering what they are used for, where they all go and come from and if I could re-mount them.

Again, thank you for a constructive post there LOWESTR32. Yes it is in a "yukky silvia" and the RB20 was poor before it ever got put into a silvia! So you are basing your "just block them all off" theory on what?

Thanks for the reply R3380Y. I am sure they are there for a reason, I am just trying to find out what that reason is. Yes, I would prefer just to re-route them, so I am just wondering if it is just a mounting block for them on the front of the plenum?

Hi all, I thought the RB20 Gurus in the performance section could best help me out with this one. I am wondering what these pipes are for, where they go, what they do and if they can be re-run or blocked off? I AM ONLY INTERESTED IN THE RED PARTS. The one on the right I know goes through the throttle body, what for, I don’t know. The two to the left I am not sure of also. Can these be blocked off? Is it really just a mounting block on the end of the plenum for these lines to merge and run? Where do they go and what are they all used for? Thanks for your help. Joe.

Thanks Matt, Yeah I have had a good read though that one already, I will be using some of the information from there for sure. Mine is going to be a little more basic though. Joe.

haha yeah, if I was doing it for a buisness and for a reputation, I would also flow test mine to prove, but I have no one to prove my results to, its a stinking RB20, it if blows because of my dodgy plenum, then so be it, I will build or replace the engine for next to nothing and try a different style of plenum.

Bugger me! Its almost cheaper to buy a second hand RB when it blows from the plenum not flowing right

Thanks for the figures ISL33P, where would I start looking to find someone who has a flow tester designed for this application? If it wasn't going to cost to much, I would love to get mine tested when i have finished.

Good call ISL33P. I have read heaps of times how far out the standard ones out, so really, if I design mine close to copying all the aftermarket ones out there, I cannot get it as far out as a standard one!! Thanks again for your help!

Well when it is copied off a design like the Plazmaman or any of the others, it cant be that far off, and i have been looking for an excuse to put an RB25 in or rebuild my engine anyway!

Esky mad, Who did the custom top half? Did you do it yourself or did a workshop do it? Do you have pictures of it? Would it be possible to get some measurements of it for me? If you could that would be fantastic, save me a lot of time. Joe.

THanks for your help there, I will have a shot at making the custom plenum myself first, as I said, it will take very little effort and cost nothing. If it proves to be a good design I will stick with it, if it turns out bad, I will have a shot at the GReddy copy one and do the mods I need to.

Thats actually a really good idea, I could quite easily do that....... Maybe just cutting the stock runners down the bottom after all the injectors and all the rest of it, cutting the GReddy copy one at the runners and matching the two up.....I will definitely look into that. But really, it is not going to take me much time at all to make one from scatch, this sort of fabrication work is very simple. I know what you mean though, they are a tried and tested design whereas mine is going to be a copy...

You DEFINITELY need to know what you are doing or be able to read and follow instructions very well. If you get your gears out of alignment (as in the cam is rotated to a point where it shouldnt be) from the pistons and other cam, it can cause major engine failure. I would either do a lot of research on how to do it (I think there is a post here on SAU on how to do it) or get someone who knows what they are doing to do it for you.

I just fitted similar injectors in my car, yes, I had to get the tabs down on the inside and outside of the plug, I just used a stanley knife, took a while but it did a neat job. The Mafia - Yes you do need a resistor pack when running a RB26 Power FC as that is what I am using on my RB20 with my injectors. You need to remember that the GTR also uses the resistor pack, so the computer needs/is expecting to read with the resistor pack.

I was under the impression that the taper of the plenum was designed for airflow to be even across all cylinders. All I will be doing is making a top section which will bolt onto the bottom section of the standard runners. I have a seen the difference in flow characteristics between bell-mouthed runners and just radiused flat and the radiused flat did the same if not better than the bell-mouthed which can be seen at the bottom of this page - http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showth...6172&page=2 Thanks for the input, it was very useful! Keep it coming.

Hi all, Well I am going to be making my own plenum and just need some info before I begin. I have all the materials and equipment at my disposal and I make everything else for my cars, so I thought I would have a go at a plenum. I have done a lot of research around the subject but am still coming up with unanswered questions. Background info first, it is an RB20DET with KKR430 turbo, bigger injectors, Power FC, front mount, fuel system and all other supporting mods. Let me do the next part in CAPS LOCK --- I AM NOT INTERESTED IF THIS DOESN’T MAKE MORE POWER OR IT IS USELESS UNDER 300KW AND ALL THE OTHER COMMENTS YOU WANT TO POST. I am doing this for me and for me only, I will be doing a before and after Dyno run and it will be tuned by a professional tuner, so I am not worried about the tuning side of things. Ok, now onto the questions. The first question is, general volume of the plenum? It is a 2.0 litre engine, is there any set rules on the complete volume of the plenum itself? This is for a drift car, so a mix of response and top end power is important, not looking to go huge and make it laggy but lots of power and not looking to go small and make it responsive but lack top end. The next question is the tapering of the plenum, is there any set rules on what the taper of the tank should be? How big should it be at the front and what should it go down to at the rear? The last one is more of a callout for those who make plenums or who have custom made plenums, I am just looking at getting some dimensions of the tanks, like total length, size tank height at rear of plenum and tank height at front of plenum. I am only interested in replies from people who have direct experience with making plenums or who work in race fabrication style workshops. Thank you all in advanced for your useful replies. I will keep you updated with pics and how it is going as I make it.

haha yeah mate, I would hate to be paying someone $900 just to add their special map and change some settings. It was $900 plug in (except for the wiring I did) Joe.

Sweet as, do you know which guy they use and how much he charges?

Oh, I know its not a true reading, so now I just gotta find an RB26 knock sensor and see what I need to do to make it fit.

As far as I know, it does have to have a RB20 map put in, it would be done via a datalink with saved maps on a laptop. But I am still waiting to confirm what BoostWorx actually did for me by "modding" it.

Hi all, After installing my turbo and all supporting mods onto my RB20DET I was on the hunt for an aftermarket computer. After a fair bit of research, Power FC it was, but bugger me if I was going to spend the ridiculous amounts people want for an RB20 Power FC. So I looked into getting an RB26DETT Power FC modded to suit. After finding out that it could be done, I found the cheapest Power FC I could find (wrong idea) from Nengun. After a 3 month wait for it, it finally arrived. I then sent it straight on to BoostWorx in Adelaide to get modded and the RB20 map put into it. The RB20 computer loom needs some modding before the RB26 Power FC can be plugged in, from the description it looked rather easy and a 10 min job. WRONG! We figured out a few problems with the wiring, it said to join different wires together in the computer loom, the problem was there was actually no wires in the RB20DET loom where they wanted us to join the wires. So we had to remove pins with wires that weren’t being used (aircon and automatic transmission wires) and put them into the correct spots that we needed to join for the RB26 computer. After triple checking everything, we then hooked the battery in and watched for a minute to see if anything was going to fry, then put the ignition on for a minute and waited, then started the car…….it started first go!! Ran very smooth too and the Power FC was showing all the data it needed to!! The only thing that I am checking up on is if an RB26 knock sensor will fit into an RB20 because the RB26 Power FC reads a lower knock when on the RB20. Say it is reading 30, it should be reading something like 60 because it is actually pinging, so at the start I will just have to make sure that it is reading nice and low on the knock reading. It is booked in for the 11th for its tune, so cant wait for that! All up including the modding the Power FC has only cost me about $900 so I am rather stoked. Joe.

You said you were using twin low mounts with internal gates, but what kind of turbos are they?

allthewaytothesky, got mine today from my local wreckers. easy as, find a wrecker who has an MR30 skyline, nick it from behind the passenger strut tower and ask at the counter how much they want for this measly little part, pay your $5 - $10 and walk out with a smile knowing you have just saved $165 and not bought a GTR one.

Well done for bringing this one back up GTShortie, I am very keen to know the difference too.