TTT

apply this to your current stock coil packs. http://www.qsradio.com/Electrical%20Tape%204%20Color.JPG use the remaining $490 on other goods

L's and a turbo car?

Col - have a spare $50 now. When can I get this air box? and from where? do you deliver?

who does? using bare hands? anyway, nsanity sounds like you have your head on straight and "kinda" know what you are after and what you will need. This is one of the BETTER "what mods should I do" threads I agree with the new section. kinda like a "readers rides" but more so a members builds. make it so anyone can create a thread, maybe provide a template for car, engine, mods. then only the thread started can update. anyone who wants to ask quesitons can PM the person. that way you get no chit chat, and you have a full diary/blog type thread of each member is doing/has done to their automobile. I am yet to read a better thread than Godzilla32's "My restoration" thread. And that is stickied in the general maintenance section. surely it needs to go in the POOL ROOM.. and that there is what the new section should be called.

Hi and welcome. have a read through these first.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fi...-co-t45218.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/RB...ipe-t54854.html it all depends on what mods your car currently has and what your goal is for the car. you say performance is what you want, I assume you mean power, but it could also mean better performance in cornering so you'd spend the money on suspension and tyres etc.. power mods are common. Exhaust - $1K boost - $30 intercooler - $300 tune - $300 that will wake your car up compared to stock. read the above links to get more ideas on how to go further.

search the forum for ECU+CODES there was a thread with what each light flash meant. also, I'm thinking that if all this started with the SMIC install, are you absolutely certain the the 2 rubber joiners for the cooler are not cracked. have you removed both off the car, cleaned them and thoroughly inspected them? remember that those rubber joiners have probably not been touched for about 15 years and perhaps as you removed the stock cooler (the pipe has a lip on it) it may have cracked the rubber a little or enough to cause a leak. it's free so might be worth checking.

it doesn't make any farking difference. you already proved this by telling us that it made no difference to your premium, just your excess. f**k you go on about your car. It's a car. a $25K R34 GTT which you have spent what $12K - $15K on the engine? how the hell is that high end? it's just like anyone else who popped number 6 and decided I'll do it properly. get over yourself and stop talking up your "expected" 350rwkw. there are a shit load of cars on here with the same power if not more who don't feel the need to bring it up in every post/thread (The Mafia excluded - but he likes external bovs so that's fine)

I measured 8hp on the ass dyno

just filled up last night after 1 week of driving. 51.63L since last refill and 410kms travelled. 12.6L /100kms

bahahahahaha

Petern - your boost looks liek it's at about 13 for the lower revs before it drops to 10.something.. what's happening there?

well that is 2 with very similar/consistant results. as for the premium thing, I would have thought you would ALWAYS use 98 on these cars. I always have. also, when you say stagea smic, I assume it was the NEO engine one so essentially an R34 smic yeh? great results. I too don't intend to go past the stock turbo's power limits so that is why I will go down this path. and the fact is, just like the R34 smic I always argue people to get, if you decide to go further in the future, you could sell your ECU, SMIC, etc to the next guy who just bought an R33 with cat back and pod filter. get all your money back. the way I see it, my costs will be.. dump/front pipe - $120 second hand cat - $200 new fuel pump - $150 turbo tech bleed valve - $30 R34 SMIC - $150 ECU - $350 $1000 = bees dick under 200rwkw. I'll spend further money on brakes, tyres, clutch gauges/monitoring etc. excellent bargain. I've seen 200rwkw R33 gtst's run a high 12 or flat 13. can't ask for more for a street car.

unless you start to hear flutter, then it's fine. If you start to get flutter, then there is some sort of restriction in the Venting.. either the bov or the return line. if the return line hasn't been reduced too much in diameter, then it shouldn't be a problem till you are well up in the 300rwkw as per Mafia's car.

I like to see the quality in person if at all possible before the next group buy batch. anyone in brisbane got their car done? Can I have a look see?

Sold

$30 for airbagless stock steering wheel

o kay

Can you make something out of metal (what ever material you used for your intake pipe) that sits in between the stock bov return hose (just the rubber hose that used to join your bov to the metal return line) and the small rubber joiner you wil luse at the intake return point? example in words.. Bov outlet===rubber joiner===new metal return line bent to the shape you need===rubber joiner===intake pipe bov return hole. essentially, fabricate a new metal return pipe to replace the factory metal bendy return pipe. I have also seen people use this sort of shit.. http://www.morriscoupling.com/Products_Ind...od13_14_pic.jpg Obviously they come in all sorts of ID sizes. Have a look in Clarks rubber. they might have something for you. the above stuff does not kink. I've also seen it used for connections of catch cans. Perhaps Bunnings or other plumbing stores might be able to help too

Just did a quick search to see this R34 and house accident.. found nothing.. But man.. did your original threads bring back some awesome memories.. do the same. search, by name "R34NRG" and start at the earliset.. lol your attitude cracks me up.

yeh I don't remember the house story... sounds good.. was anyone killed? lol

the higher the house prices, the more profit for me.. all are welcome.

are you asking about a bov or wastegate? bov atmo venting = no performance gain and many headaches on an AFM equiped car. wastegate atmo venting = "apparent" gain in performance. However, I'd like to see the dyno sheets of someone with a 3-3.5 inch exhaust who has a split dump pipe where the wastegate pipe joins the rest of the exhaust way down the line (like a CES style dump pipe), compared to when they change the dump pipe to a split dump with atmo venting wastegate pipe. I'd suggest that apart from sound, there will be no change in power.

is SAUQLD seperate from SAU? I'm getting prompted for a user id and password

no shit.. so you got one you want to sell or swap for this masterpiece-o-shit?

It's got nothing to do with SAU being SAU. you copped flack back then because of the way you acted on here. You STILL cop flack about it cause it's fun to do so.