bigkevracer
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Posts posted by bigkevracer
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That would be me, white one? Exhaust is nice... AM Performance!m35 in mawson lakes on Sunday, leaving as I was leaving. Had an SAU sticker too, nice exhaust
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New plan.
Finish ITBs.
Drive it.
Then sell it.
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Try a PM35 instead if you're looking for something different.
Rainy day in Canada.Catching up on some reading Jase? Good to see
Considering what to buy upon return to Oz (if we return).
Passat AWD wagon I like.. Trusty Stagea? Hmmm..
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+1 Iron Chef.
I had a couple of issues with Northshore, feel free to PM me.
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Two can shit stir mate!Lol upgrading? hmmmm! updating maybe! newer isn't always better, I'm sure if I ever want a slow big family car a m35 would be the first on my list .
Only joking guys
I got love for ya all Bigkev let's have cruise soon , even if I haven't got the new diff and cradle set up in the good stag done nill bring the stocky out
Something else broke so I have a couple of things to fix then cruise time.
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Look out for C34 owners trying to talk you out of upgrading.
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Worked out the weird noise was a bearing, but wasn't the alternator.
The bearing on the fan pulley had died, as had the fan clutch. And the passenger side front wheel bearing...
So finally going to install the twin 12" thermos I've had sitting here with fan shroud. I'll see how they go with the shroud, but better than no fan, and if they don't perform well enough I can always go back to a clutch fan. Seemed silly not to use the fans I had on the shelf for now and give them a go, when the alternative is buy a new fan clutch, and probably need a new fan shroud (mine looks pretty sad).
At the same time I'm going to delete the offending bearing. I've removed the fan pulley and instead of replacing the bearing, at the moment I'll leave it off, put a spacer behind the alternator bracket, and run a shorter fan belt.
Should be an interesting test, see what difference it makes if any. Winter is a good time to test it, that's for sure.
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Cheers Cam. First things first I'll rip it off and see if I can rebuild it with new bearings.
Funny thing is P/N 23100-AM610 can be found online from a bunch of places. Only two hits for 23100-AL31A, one being this page.
If it's the same as the V35 and Pathfinder, why wouldn't it be the same as 350Z different p/n, so must be different, maybe higher amperage?
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Cheers mate. Dad's got a lathe so that should be fine. Not sure about brushes, might have to get a sparky to do that bit.
Sounds like there are a few 350Z owners in the states putting higher amperage units in for stereos etc. Not sure if that's worth doing at the same time, but seems like pulling it apart is going to be cheapest, easiest and quickest.
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lol ok. He should have a couple.
Part number for VQ25DD and VQ35DE is 23100-CD010, Amayama have them for $507. Surely a VQ25DET would be the same as those two?
Fortunately it looks like its a standard Mitsubishi part, so bearings are available, part number 2312030R10 and 231200V017, Amayama flog them off for $25 or less per bearing (they want FIVE HUNDRED DORRAH for a complete alternator!).
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Surely Scott isn't the only one that knows.
If 350Z belts are the same as NM35 belts, I guess that means the alternator is probably the same (well, it looks like the VQ35HRs had a different alternator to the VQ35DEs, bu you get my point).
Looks like 350Z units are available out of the US for $150-200, or high amp versions for $200+.
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Car has started making epic squealing noises, and after an initial panic that it was turbo related, it looks like it's now alternator. Hopefully that proves right when I pull the belt off and check, but some basic tests show that it's most likely, and probably explains some battery deaths and other electrical issues.
I couldn't find a part number on here - surely someone has replaced an alternator on an M35? Anyone rebuilt one? Seems like bearings so we're tossing up rebuilding it and replacing the bearings depending on costs etc.
Everything in an alternator search seems to be RB... no VQ love.
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Thought the turbo had shit itself tonight on the drive home.
Ends up it was the wheel bearing, coincidentally one day after dad was in the car and thought he heard a noise from the front right.
So calls start tomorrow to locate one. Is everyone sourcing from Nissan or Amayama? Anyone trying a bearing specialist like CBC?
Part number is on Just Jap so all good there.
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Craig's got the monopoly on pink stickers.needs more nismo stickers
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Haven't been around much, too busy!Ps bigkev what happend to you
Cleared up a bit now, and found some nice roads the other day, so I'll organise a north cruise in the next couple of months.
And if no one makes it ill go anyway. Roads are nice, bit more open, and some good places for lunch and meet point.
Few more things to finish up and golden.
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Washed and TLC before Scouts Rally SA.
Shame that I sucked at the stickers... What a shit of a job. Now to get the hair dryer on them and get them all off!
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finally ive been waiting to post this.
cars tuned, very happy with the results its been a long time( almost 3 months) with issue and constantly annoying the guys on here.. but first in WA
it is road tuned so no dyno results as yet guys but its a big improvement and im sitting at 19.5psi
id really like to thank Scotty, Craig, Ryan and of course all the others for imput for helping me through the tuning/ mehanical issues ive had.
i will get dyno run for all you doubters eventually lol
Nice work Chris.
What was the boost issue in the end?
No fault codes I take it?
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Starting to think OB-Link with one of those Chinese head units running Android would be the best bet...
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Yeah there is a restrictor, but when I replaced the hoses I knew this was there and was cutting all the hoses apart to find them. Maybe I missed one, because I didn't find one.
If its in the hose from the boost solenoid to the wastegate, is it something I can go and get from Repco/Autobarn/SuperCheap and just replace?
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Wait... So you want my shaft to grow in length?I think sometimes when I weld the spring mounts on the actuator it may grow in length slightly, (don't get too excited Craig, dirty mind.) This can be counteracted by simply sliding a washer or two under each of the mounting points on the front housing. There should be 3-5mm of preload which means you should have to slide the shaft out of the actuator 5mm before it will clip on to the wastegate arm, it will take a bit of force as the springs are so strong. It sounds like yours needs more preload in any case Ryan.
Cool, well washers sound like an easy solution. I'll give that a crack and see how I go. 1-2 washers should give me an extra 2-3mm preload.
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Lol ok. Not sure how much preload I have, but it sounds like a stronger spring will give more preload?Lol, no mate; don't drill the hole out.
Preload basically means that the arm will be too short to reach the pivot pin on the Wastegate arm. You'll need to pull against the actuator spring and stretch it into position. That extra stretch is preload.
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My actuator has almost 5mm of preload, the stroke of the thing is huge.
The hole Craig is talking about is the hole in the Wastegate arm, that the pivot pin goes through.
Boring out the Wastegate isn't going to make it hold boost better, if anything; it will allow you to bleed boost pressure more easily.
It would be worth doing if you were building boost pressure uncontrollably, but you have the exact opposite issue.
What's stock? From memory 3mm isn't it? And I didn't think Scotty modified that hole. Should I drill it out to 5mm?
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Thanks guys. I'll try and tick everything off...
9psi? it sounds like you have a leak in the vac line, or yours is the only turbo not holding boost.
Did your turbo have a larger wastegate puck or something?
Perhaps the actuator doesn't have enough preload?
I've replaced every vac line now I think. I can't see how that would be it.
Stock turbo, stock wastegate puck. Andrew at AM wants to bore out the wastegate 1mm but nothing has been done yet.
Actuator is your modified one, exactly how you sent it to me. If it needs more preload do I just put a stronger spring on?
Check this. You need about 3mm of the width of the hole on the actuator for preload imo.
Perhaps the actuator doesn't have enough preload?
Which hole Craig?
Bigkev ,no print out I would be asking "demanding a print out " it's an important reference to your car it's no good having all the bells and whistles and not having a guide to what it's doing and be a grumpy man if I was you
^ This. Just what the hell are they doing Ryan? You'd think for a shop with such a reputable name, they'd be a bit more helpful... or is it because you don't have an R35?
Thanks guys. No printout, it was supposed to just be a fix session and the map ended up being redone. I could have asked for the printout. I didn't. I'd just sat in the passenger seat and seen the whole thing so didn't think to ask.
Ryan, check out Theo's boost drop. He's stock turbo too, I suspect it's all about running out of compressor flow.
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/357886-lambchop-with-a-renault-axis-here/?p=6493662Mine was similar to that (although wtf is that at the end of the drop off?!). I wouldn't have thought it was running out of compressor flow that early? I thought others had more success on the stock turbo. Funny that Theo and I have both changed the vac hoses, and both get similar graphs.
When I had my stock turbo it would hold at least 13psi to redline. No doubt it does run out of flow, but 9psi sounds too low.
How is boost control being done Ryan?
Scotty's modded actuator with the HKS EVC.
9psi is the boost I used to get when my boost solenoid would stick open. Sounds like the wastgate is fully opening.
Weird thing is, it was 7psi without the modded actuator, 9psi with.
I want to see if I can find the boost problem, fix it, then take it to somewhere else to get the EVC setup properly and the tune checked.
For the record, the original tuner (who I won't name on here but some people know) once I explained all the issues offered to fix it, ended up retuning on MAP instead of AFM at my request, and spent near enough to two hours with me explaining things and talking about it. So far it seems like they have fixed it and improved it no end, but at the request of a few people I'll get it checked out just for peace of mind.
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Just got back from the retune.
Car now runs on the MAP sensor. MUCH MUCH MUCH more responsive, but no more power. Apparently 200kW on a Dyno Dynamics now, but no print out.
The weird thing is it's running Scotty's modded actuator and only running 9psi at the top - so it's 2psi more than last time with the stock actuator.
Got to get this boost sorted, and find out why it seems to be speed limiting still.
Much better package though, and much happier. Just want my farkin boosts!
M35 Strut Brace
in Wagoneers
Posted
Sorry haven't got on here much lately. I've got Dale's front brace, the OX rear that Jetwreck organised in the group buy, and a Freeway Dolphin strut brace that Streeter organised.
These days I think the strut brace serves more use as a place to cable tie hoses to, but I've left it in. Looks purdy, and makes some difference, but with Dale's brace and all the bushes replaced, front end is pretty direct without it.