jrm

.... They only did those on the coupe..?

in my experience, the stock temp gauge reaches half-way around 60-65C and will stay there till around 110C before rising - so it could be easily right. +1 on bleeding the coolant system too.

who made that sort of dumb rule ... Can't say I've worked anywhere that has tried enforce that crap .. Besides, how many hours a day does anyone spend in a server room ..

Don't forget the sedan model (though even then - tight squeeze for 5...)

Saw this car as well, then a bit later going south on Brighton Rd .. Female driver, I think?

Damn! Was gonna ask about rear door window seals

mmm .. hell of a lot more interesting than engines or defects ..

The RB25DE/DET were also later released as a low-emissions engine with a NEO head, slightly different turbocharger, and a number of other details - this also increased their power output from the previous generation. You see the RB25 NEO on the R34 skylines.. Anyway, for a quick read on the RB25 wikipedia has a page ..

If anyone cares, for reference with a second hand nismo front bar, there's one at Japanese Import Spares for $550, so $1000 for new isn't entirely unreasonable.

Yeah - as much as I would have liked a sunroof in my R34 to match the one in my N14 SSS, I found it limited the headroom significantly - the reason I opted to avoid models with a sunroof..

I would imagine you'd need to engineer any changes to your rails as they'd need to be checked to make sure they comply with ADRs? ( *cant imagine being too small for a car, usually has the opposite problem* .. )

.. Whys this have to be in Sydney? I imagine courier would be prohibitive ... Ah well - someones gonna get a good buy ...

RB meaning 'race bred' is a myth - never been supported by Nissan Its also worth reading about the RB30 on wikipedia

Pretty sure this has been covered a 'few' times - the slip/tcs are known to flash when the coil packs are on their way out

If the nose has snapped off so the belt is still turning (along with the cas) wouldn't that mean the cam itself isn't turning - meaning valve on piston contact (mind you the OP said it turns over and then gets 'stuck' - so maybe that's what's happened?) ... Just thinking outloud based on what others have said anyway ... Definitely sounds like time to get that timing belt cover off anyway ...

Meh - I'm happy to listen to a heartfelt story - but that just went a little too far for me... .. so, should I have heard of 'god made famous'?

idungeddit ... i could barely watch it because it felt like some sort of christian preaching - hopped through it - still no clue. .. so who's tony palombi? Why's he famous? Why's this interesting? (Tried google - still no idea..)

I checked my local Autobarn last week when I dropped past for exactly this - cos it's what I now plan to use instead of the old X-cess line - they had it in stock.

DEFECTIVE VEHICLES In South Australia Highly doubt you can get a defect cleared interstate - they wouldn't be authorized by the SA govt to clear defects - this would need to be done by a DTEI station or SA police officer.

FYI http://www.shoppingsquare.com.au/p_14556_Logitech_G27_Racing_Wheel_for_PC__Playstation_23 .. $426 new ..

R&R = Rich & Retard. To explain: 'Rich' - enrichen the fuel mixture 'Retard' - retard the timing R&R is a one ECU strategy to try and protect the engine, another is 'air flow cut'. To copy/paste from another thread: I would judge in most situations with an untuned ECU and higher than factory boost you're more likely to be seeing 'air flow cut' than R&R. An untuned ECU will in with the airflow cut anytime it sees too much airflow - if you're running too much boost, then it could do this anytime it sees that too much boost. This could easily happen at more than 10-11psi, and possibly during cold weather even at those levels (where the air is more dense).

Nope,haven't been to the dyno yet.Well,that's what the previous seller told me but anyways. Mine was making 182rwkw with just k&n panel filter, FMIC & 3" exhaust - running basically factory boost (up to 8psi dropping down by redline). I'm now running a 10psi actuator, nismo fuel pump, new spark plugs, new coilpacks - so I'd expect maybe 190rwkw - but I'll be getting it properly tuned soon. I've never heard of anyone breaking 200rwkw without a tune. I wouldn't even bother trying with the traction control on. To explain what I mean by my comment - the traction control on the R34 utilises two systems - one to cut spark, and the other has a second throttle butterfly that basically closes off (think how your accelerator pedal opens one butterfly - well this one sits in front of it - so no matter how hard you have your foot pressed down, TCS has shut you down). My car is manual, but to further explain what I meant, if I were to be in a situation where I accelerated too quickly off the line in the dry, with traction control on - I'll get just a small hint of wheel spin before the traction control kicks in (closes that second butterfly) and stops my accelerator pedal being useful, cutting the boost off, and stopping that wheel spin (aka 'fun'). With traction control off, it'll wheel spin trivially with too much accelerator and traction control will not kick in. You should be able to tell whether traction control is kicking in and stopping your fun - the 'SLIP' light in the dash will flash. Additionally, if TCS is off, the 'TCS' lamp should be lit in the dash. And yes - it's possible that the ECU could be working in conjunction with the TCS system to make it even harder to wheel spin - BUT I havent driven or owned an R34 auto, so I can't comment here at all (I've never owned an auto, and will never own an auto..)

The car will switch the aircon off if you rev it out - that's normal.] Additionally, in really hot weather (think 35+C), your front aircon fan should kick in and ensure there's some airflow to the condenser - it will still not be as cool as it could be - but will cool down as soon as you get going and gets airflow. Lots of people remove this fan to fit larger intercoolers - it also can become unplugged very easily - I'd definitely check here too.

Traction control on my R34 makes it very difficult to get wheel spin unless you really try (and when you do, it immediately cuts the second butterfly and kills the fun). Have you tried turning it off? As an aside, I'd also think your auto gearbox will make it more difficult to spin the wheels.

I think the main consideration to make is that the standard ECU tuning is - by default - going to richen the mixtures when you modify the car. This is a protection mechanism built in there by the Nissan engineers - richer mixtures are less likely to have detonation, and act to 'cool' the combustion process more - making it much safer for the engine. I honestly expect my fuel economy to increase fairly dramatically once it's been tuned as they'll make an effort to keep the mixtures more at optimum levels at different load-levels.