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About jrm

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    R34 GT-T 4D, Mazda 3 SP25GT/BM

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  1. I was looking at my alternator wiring last night, and saw that at least on my R34 GTT there are two small white wires from the positive coming out of the alternator going into the fuse-box to an 80A fuse there (Looks like a PAL fuse?). This would obviously need to be replaced with larger wiring with a larger alternator, and the fuse replaced with a larger one. Is that what others have done for their larger alternators, or have people simply been wiring it straight to the battery, and bypassing the factory fusing, etc?
  2. jrm

    Honestly, it's mostly about getting as much amperage as I can get. Big stereos are a massive burden on batteries and alternators - so I'm just keen to get something BIG. Unfortunately, massive high-output alternators like you get in the US don't seem to be a big thing here (like 200-250-300A+). It mostly seems to be limited to around 150A for skylines. The LS1 conversion/mount option would leave open US LS1 options - but then I gotta deal with postage/warranty/etc. Anyway all - thanks for the input you have :)
  3. jrm

    Sorry for the thread bump - but has anyone actually tried one of these? I've been eyeing off alternator options - LS1 mount / pulley conversion, this ARD alternator and the one from Frenchy's Garage (https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/nissan-rb-high-output-alternator). It's a bit of a struggle to figure out what's the best path forward. LS1 conversion would mean I could fit any LS1 alternator - but they mostly seem to max out at 140A in a reasonable cost in Australia. the Frenchy's Garage and ARD are 150A - which would be a good improvement. I'd prefer to buy in Australia for warranty / support if I can. Anyone have any thoughts?
  4. I found this in another thread about removing the airbag - Which doesn't bode so well for the wheels being the same with regard the horn / clockspring - and I'd need to find an auto clockspring to change over as well to add steering wheel controls. Sounding like a lot of cost & effort!
  5. Good to hear about there apparently being separate momentary lines for each button - that makes things simpler. So I guess the only question for me is going to be whether the clock spring on a manual vehicle has a single line for just the horn, or the 5 lines for the 4 switches + horn. My plan if that is true would be to wire up a box to take input from those 4 inputs, and output that into a standard way (perhaps as Chris said much earlier in the thread with different resistance values per button) - as that would make it easier to fit in with an aftermarket stereo. Thinking about it then, you could even have different functions for long/short-press or buttons held together, and all sorts. Something to mull over Anyway, thanks for contributing!
  6. Bumping a massively old thread, but did anyone successfully get this working with an R34 steering wheel,? Importantly, does anyone know if the wiring is available in the loom for R34 manual -to allow for those extra wires for tiptronic control?
  7. jrm

    Have some R34 CF-look / hydrodipped interior trim & exterior door handles for sale - located in SA:-
  8. Hey guys, I purchased some carbon-look hydrodipped parts from Japan, but I'm going to have to part with some of them as I'm taking a different direction. Automatic gear surround, ashtray & stereo surround - $150: Center air-conditioning vent - $50: Exterior 4-door / sedan door handles to fit a - I think these would be perfect on a white or black car - $250: (Sorry, I'm not interested in splitting them for coupe owners) Prices are firm. Not trying to make a profit, just not lose a butt-load All parts are located in Adelaide, South Australia. Happy to ship Australia-wide, at cost (I'll need to get a quote from AusPost).
  9. jrm

    I've seen several options on the market for R34 that replace the rear license plate light, so that it works/looks relatively OEM. I've been trying to source one for a while, but the only ones I've tracked down don't have any side marker lines on the image - which is something that's overlayed in the camera. In the past, I'm fairly sure that Carbon Car Systems and Chris Rogers have been able to supply similar, along with MFD integration if required (not relevant to GTT)
  10. Interested. I'd also be interested if you have any options with higher output (150+)
  11. So I spent this evening mucking with it - and I eventually got it to let me pull the belt out. For anyone reading this or having the problem in the future - it basically requires you to put the belt into a completely 100% vertical position, the right way up, with no side to side angle - and then it eventually - with many false-starts and stop-starting - let me pull the belt out enough that I could remount it back into the spot in the car - and from then on it was working as usual. Thanks for all your help GTSBoy - it's appreciated. Hopefully this will help someone in future running into this.
  12. All I did was unbolt it and put it to the side. If I let it - it will wind more belt in - more belt will not come out, suggesting that there's something preventing it - perhaps a safety mechanism? Oddly enough, the ones I see on eBay are all wound up like that, so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. The only thing I can think is it needs to be plugged back in, and the car turned on so it can reset the pre-tensioner stuff inside it. Either way, there isn't really anything to repeat or reverse, and with it wound up as far as it is, I can't even bolt it back in (or plug it back in, without removing the entire belt) - because there's no room left. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas...
  13. Hey guys, After extensive sound-deadening work in the car floor, I've re-installed the carpet and now re-installing the center console, seats and seatbelts into car - and found that the seatbelt retractor on the passenger side seems to have gotten stuck and won't let me pull the belt out any further. I didn't have this issue on the drivers side, but I didn't have to remove as much stuff around the retractor there. The car is an R34 GTT Sedan. Has anyone run into this before? I'm wondering if maybe I've let it retract too much, and I've hit a safety mechanism? Is there a trick to loosen up a cam or something inside to get it to work again? I notice there's a 4-pin plug on the retractor - maybe something needs to happen there to activate it? Any clues or help would be appreciated.