QWK32

yeah there is a couple threads already going about the same thing. though more threads means more chance of it getting seen and reminding people to check there mail

is there any reason why you couldn't hook the MAP sensor back up? was it damaged or something? you shouldn't have to worry about the factory boost limit unless your running 14psi and higher, which is aftermarket turbo territory. the boost limit wont cause any kind of underperformance or sluggish boost. it is a hard cut out of the engine, as i said in that topic, it feels like you've driven into a solid wall. i only mention it as i have been told by a tuner that they have seen leaner mixtures once the MAP was disconnected, although this wasn't what i experienced, i could have easily added fuel to compensate. you wont have this option on the stock ecu, do you have anyway to check your mixtures? if not i'd reconnect it to be on the safe side.

You are correct, it is the type 4 board. Just go directly to Nistune, they are in SA. Check out the Nistune site http://www.nistune.com/ ordering tab. It maybe better to email Matt at Nistune [email protected] or PM him on SAU, i think his username is "darkhalf", you may also be able to work out a deal for supply and install a bit better than the listed price on the Nistune website.

let us know how it goes mate, i'm keen to see the results. i'll let you know if i'm going to head out on saturday, i don't mind paying the spectator fee if i have to. hopefully 2 hours is enough to get a few runs in.

just posted the same thing in the other workshop manual thread before. hopefully we get enough people to confirm and keep the ball rolling.

just got my confirmation email to start the translation.

Why the week time frame? And what's wrong with yours? If your worried about the turn around on nistune I sent mine to Nistune in SA on a Monday from QLD and recieved it back Thursday morning. And I'm sure any workshop that does Nistune install and tunes will have a day turn around. It's going to be just as long for any other ecu especially if it's an universal wire in ecu. Edit: you replied before my post. Is a stock ecu no good because of the mods you have?

what power level are you hoping for? i have a HKS system but the 409 not the silent, i think they are the same just one is shinny stainless. i never looked down the centre muffler, i bet its the same to . though mine seems to flow good enough. i'm blaming the split dump for the creep, i opened up the wastegate pipe entry at the flange and it helped. still get the occasional spike. think i may mod it to be a bellmouth. yeah i should be free, i haven't made any plans as of yet. why's that?

where did you end up taking it to get tuned darrin? hopefully you don't have the same boost creep problem i was having on the gcg dump.

check out this thread mate. LINK TO THREAD its got some info on what Darrin found out trying to fit one to his.

Good work James, so we should be all set to go now given that everyone that singed up is still interested. its been going for a few years now and i'd say a few people who originally requested might not own a stagea anymore.

under $400 for a set of 550's is a really good find. i'd agree with hypergear about the wastegate actuator not coping too well above 15psi, thats over 3 times the level it was designed for, 5psi. wastegate controller?, maybe they mean to get a new wastegate actuator from them, it make sense for the price. i had to get one for my turbo upgrade and it set me back about $185, so not far off $200. don't know about the lines though. you'd think if they where taking your turbo and highflowing it, it should bolt back up easy?? is that what hypergear said? another thing that may be an issue depending on you target power level, is the AFM. if only around the 220kw mark to start with you might get away with leaving it till after everything else is installed. then when you go in for the tune just ask the tuner how close to the stock AFM's limits your getting. then you'll know for sure if it needs to be upgraded. and just a couple things that happened to me with my upgrade. when installing new injectors i didn't want to split the plenum to get to the fuel rail, you can do the swap without splitting it but there is very limited space to pull the fuel rail back off the injectors. you should be able to get it back just far enough to do the swap though, i found it tricky but doable. i just removed as much of the small bits that are in the way as i could e.g throttle body, fuel lines iacv line etc. my stock BOV started failing (blowing off during acceleration) at boost pressures of 14-15psi. had to source and aftermarket plumb back. blocking it off was bad, constant stalling and backfiring. and at the moment i don't have a shift kit for the auto (happeing very soon ), my stock auto box doesn't like the extra power during full throttle gear changes. i have to back off to half throttle to let the auto grab the next gear before planting it again, it gets very annoying lol.

with the reference to the link, if your engine is 100% ie no dodge coils, there will still be a small flat spot around 4800-5200 rpm, almost like power eases off for a sec then kicks back in. the engine will seem to be running fine and rev smoothly during this flat spot. i could really notice it at 11psi on stock maps and turbo. when a coil pack is breaking down / miss-firing you will notice the engine run a little rough, probably more noticeable with a aftermarket exhaust system where you will hear the engine's note stutter, cough or even backfire. you wont be feeling R&R if you say it is only hesitating during a small rpm range and running fine and "full" powered the rest. once you hit R&R the ecu will stay on the knock maps for a while (i think until restart), so the car will feel sluggish and slow through the whole rev range while in R&R. i've seen chuckies post with the pics of his coil packs sprayed in that crc urethane stuff he is talking about. that stuff looks like it seals the coils up really well and about 100 time neater than pumping silicone all over them. i say try that first, it cant hurt and its cheap and easy.

the fuel pump wiring mod is also because on the stock setup a fuel pump control module steps the voltage down a bit at idle, this slows the pump down. i think the intention was to get it to run quieter during idle. this lower voltage feed will cause aftermarket pumps to fail/burn out as most of them require 12v+. also, make sure that the seimens/deka injectors either, will plug into the neo's injector loom, or they come with a plug kit (cut original plugs off and wire into new plugs).

the only thing that removing the vac line off the BOV proves is the apprentice isn't as crash hot on skylines as he thinks, blocking the BOV line will have no influence on the wastegate. without that vac line the BOV could now be blowing open under boost hence the lack of power you feeling after blocking it. it still could be a slight breakdown/misfire issue, it won't show up on the DTC's unless a coil pack or PTU completely fails, thats why you have no error codes. when you say its like a limiter how does it feel? i mean, is it a violent stutter, a complete engine cut, or just like the power has flattened out a bit? A couple things that would be worth doing are, change the plugs out for a set of coppers gapped to 0.8, and change your fuel filter if you haven't already.

you wont have to worry about maxing out anything unless you upgrade to a bigger turbo. the injectors, afm, etc will all easily handle a couple of mods like FMIC and exhaust, a bit more boost and a tune on the stock turbo.

Having a manual your options are a little more open than most of us stagea owners but i'd still look into a Nistune board before shelling out big buck for top end ecu's like Vipec, Haltech etc. Nistune is more than good enough for a street car and at about 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a full aftermarket ecu.

you can get genuine nissan ones from kudos motorsport (site sponsor) for $86. not as cheap as the ebay ones chook posted but it is genuine and cheaper.

it does sound like a lack of fuel, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter? it could be blocked up and restricting fuel flow. if you unplug the coolant temp sensor the ecu just uses a 40 degC temp. at that temp there is about a 3% increase in cold start correction. so you may not notice a difference. try it, if it helps then you know its a lack of fuel either from a fuel supply issue, or an air leak adding more air. the lower temp enrichment could be helping by adding in more fuel. how does the engine run/idle once up to operating temp? also do not poor water on the CAS.

Yeah mate that's how they are. You will notice that it will only change down to first if you come to a stop in a higher gear, say 3rd.

4WD will be fine, it's basically the same as the GTR 4WD system which can handle alot more than 250awkw. The auto box will handle it, I'm running around that power with a stock auto, my only issue is flaring in gearchanges under full load. I'm in the process of getting a shift kit to sort that out.

Are you talking about the small brass restrictors in the boost solenoid / wastegate vacuum lines? If it is those you are talking about look for yellow bands on the vacuum lines to indicate where they are, if your lucky they won't be worn off. If your running stock boost control they are important.

there is something wrong there then. i was running around 11psi for a while before doing my turbo upgrade. you just need some kind of boost control.

just get a nistune board installed and tuned for 11-12psi on the stock turbo and you wont be far off that. stock injectors and afm will be fine. see how that feels and if you still want more then do the turbo.

i think you'll find that the stock double din xanavi screen is also the climate control, so not that easy to remove. mine didn't have the xanavi screen, just a single din climate control with double din cd player under that. the stagea has 3 din pockets available. now i have the single din climate control unit and a double din 7" touchscreen dvd,cd,etc.