QWK32

its your carbon canister purge valve. it tells the carbon canister (black canister and the front next to the air filter/air box) when to vent. its got something to do with the fuel tank breather. sorry i don't have a clue how much one would be, ring around a few wreckers and see what they have. p.s. series 2 stagea's, with the NEO RB25 have the same valve.

yeah with E85 its good to run teflon coated fuel lines as its doesn't react with the ethanol and helps with any vapours that may leech out using normal rubber lines, also pays to make sure your pump and injectors can handle it, usually anything that can take methanol is ok for ethanol. its not like adding E85 will magically give your car more power by itself, you need to get it tuned for it. with E85 you can safely add in more timing than you can with PULP98, where you would normally get knock increasing timing. generally more timing = more power. personally i'm not even going to look at E85 until its availability grows and until it get its own pricing, and not just a derivative of ULP. at its current price, usually 20c a litre less than ULP going off reports from the southern states, in my opinion is kind of offset by the 25-30% increase in fuel consumption. but if those two things would change, i would happily change to an ethanol setup, the idea of higher, safer power and better mid range is too tempting, even if i have to make more frequent trips to the servo.

fuel line setup

yeah, the cam marks will line up once every 2 turn of the crank. i.e 1 cam rotation = 2 crank rotations. don't worry about the markings on the belt, they only line up sometimes. i also agree that its unlikely the ecu, its just an idea that as you say would be worth ruling out. i only mentioned it as i was thinking along the lines of the base image/map not being saved to the board after nistune was installed. probably very unlikely as anyone installing it would have checked it was all ok before giving it back to you. removing the cas and spinning it manually will give you a good idea if the ecu is working anyway. if the injectors and coils fire then you know the ecu is getting the CAS signal processing it and telling them to fire.

Yes the fuel lines will hold alot of pressure even when the car is off, there are check valves that do this so there is pressure at the injectors next time you start the car. I'll take a pics of my fuel lines when I get home this arvo, I'm running the stock setup. It won't be the ignition timing if, all the cam gear and crank pulley marks lined up when you put the timing belt on, and the cas was installed correctly. Even if your cas is in the wrong position, retarded or advanced, the engine will still start. I wouldn't worry about the firing sequence as the NEO's coils and coilpack loom only fit in one way, it would be hard to mix them up. The fuel injectors don't fire directly into the cylinder, they fire into the intake valve camber, so as long as the injectors fire, the fuel will get into the cylinder. it has nothing really to do with the exhaust cam and valves. An easy way to test the injectors and coils are firing is to remove the CAS, leave it plugged in, switch the ignition to "ON", and spin the CAS by hand, you will easily here the injectors tick and coils fire. The nistune maps will be stock, but have you tested the ecu works? And are you running the stock AFM and injectors?

Its hard to diagnose issue over the forum when it was an engine out job like this, too many things were unplugged/replaced/upgraded. Though I can think of a couple things you can check if you haven't already done so, - Fuel lines on the right way? ie. Pump -> filter -> fuel damper -> rail/injectors -> fuel pressure reg -> another damper -> tank return. - If the fuel system was empty it may take a little bit to prime all the lines, how long did you crank it for? - did you upgrade to a Z32 afm? If so was it setup in you ecu.

I know what you mean about having to change your driving style. no more trying to quickly pull out onto the road or around a corner in busy traffic, got to take the lag into account lol What ecu are you running Freddy?

^^^ yeah but that's with a 10psi actuator though. with the stock one of 4-5psi, grounding out the solenoid gives you 7psi on a stock exhaust. I saw a constant 10psi with a grounded solenoid and full exhaust. With the stock ecu and tune, the solenoid becomes static at around 3000rpm, so basically the same as grounding it out. Even though nistune will show the boost solenoids duty as a 3D map, the stock values in the map make the solenoid behave in an ON/OFF way. I played with the duty to test it out (had to alter the piping as well), was basically the same as a jaycar iebc to setup, just in 3D instead of 2D.

base fuel pressure for the RB20 is 35-40psi. so at 32psi your just under that which may cause issues, but at 20psi it definitely will, no wonder it was pinging. i know you didn't install and setup the aftermarket regulator but are you saying that you have both the stock reg and the aftermarket one attached to the fuel line? it should be one or the other, not both. can you post up a pic of your fuel reg setup? oh and to disconnect the aftermarket reg you have to pull the fuel lines off as well as the vac line.

its a stainless steel (316L grade) TIG welding filler rod. have you got stainless steel intercooler pipes? could be left over from an install.

aahh, thats right. i forgot about the handbrake wire. probably because i never use it, i've always just grounded it out with the timers ground wire so it thinks the handbrake is on. another thing you'll have to check is if your alarm will work with the turbo timer. if not when you arm the alarm it will immobilise the engine making the turbo timer kinda pointless (im assuming its an alarm/immobiliser). my alarm had a turbo timer function i had to enable so the alarm knew to wait for the engine to be shut off before immobilising.

The HKS Hi-Power Silent and the 409 are basically the same thing, just the silent is made from shinny 304 grade stainless and the 409 is made from exhaust grade 409 stainless. i think the main difference between S1 and S2 is the length. i run a 409 system in my car, it has a middle muffler as well as the cannon tip. its not quite, but its not obnoxiously loud. my car is an auto and there is some drone in the cabin especially when travelling at 80-90kph that can get a little annoying when stuck at that speed limit for 1-2hrs. but its nothing the volume knob on the stereo doesn't fix. how much are the 409's going for at the moment? might be cheeper to get one made up at an exhaust shop, at least then you can get a couple big mufflers put on it to get it really quite if you want. i must say though, the HKS exhaust is a quality made system and it really was as easy as bolting it on, all the hangers lined up, angles were perfect etc.

I have a harness that looks identical to that one on my car (was on it when it came over from japan) I've since cut it up and spliced my apexi pen timer into it. That white wire circled in red, I have it too, i tested it and it seamed to be a cranking signal, don't know what for but it isn't needed for the turbo timer. The white wire circled in blue, looks like it's spliced into the accessory wire (from memory blue is the accessory on wire, green is ignition on) maybe it was for a aftermarket cd player. The red wire will be a constant 12v positive, so the wires spliced into it circled in orange will be the same, again perhaps for an aftermarket cd player, etc I'm not familiar with this turbo timer so I don't know what the plug circled in red is for sorry.

See in the first pic (left one), left hand side of the picture, there are the two plugs, one male and one female, joined together with short bits of white green blue and red wire, also has that black sheathed bit coming out of it. That's the turbo timers ignition harness. To install it, pull the dash apart so you can see the key barrel wiring, you will see a plug where the stagea's wiring loom plugs into the key barrel. It will look the same as one of the plugs on the turbo timer ignition harness, unplug it and put the turbo timer harness in-between the stagea's loom and key barrel. I'd also say one of those black wires if not both will be a ground, so you'll have to ground it/them to the chasis somewhere. You'll have to check that on a wiring diagram though.

i think your talking about the VCT (variable cam timing) solenoid Hugh. its got a two pin electrical plug on the top.

in the software, to the left of the screen is the ecu navigator bar, in the fuel sub section you will see "inj flow rate" and "inj dead time".

i suppose you could reuse it if its in ok condition, i just that you can pick up a new one for around $20 so why not change it, it would be a real pain if you had to pull it all off again to change it out if it doesn't seal up properly. the nuts should be up tighter than that, but they do work themselves loose over time (and by time i mean years) with the heat, thats why the locking tabs are on there. how did you go removing it all, easy enough?

no, the one you pictured, that is mounted behind the small grill cut out bit just under the rear demister switch and syncro button, is the inside air temp sensor. the round one on the passenger side corner below the windscreen is the sunload sensor. it does two things, when you in the sun the a/c will work harder to keep the cabin cool, and tells the 'set and forget' headlights when to turn on/off. i'm not sure if there are any other filters, the only ones i've found were the pollen filters behind the glove box.

thats your inside air temp sensor, it tells the climate control unit what the temp in the cabin is. the air con filters are located behind the glove box. from memory, you need to remove the glove box, the piece of plastic trim and steel bracing behind the glove box to get to them. they are fairly easy to get to, someone did post up a little tutorial in the stagea section with pics on how to get to them.

start by checking all your wiring, i may be possible you disturbed a bad connection. -there will be a plug that links the display to the ecu loom, check that is plugged in properly. -another thing, the SAFC has 2 grounding wires, if one of those have come off or they are spliced in the wrong way around it will cause issues. from memory there is a brown wire and a black wire, they both need to be spliced into the one ecu ground wire and the brown one (i think) needs to be closest to the ecu with the black about 50mm further down the line. do you have the wiring diagrams for the SAFC to check i have the colours the right way around lol?

nice work darrin, how does the GT30 go launching the stagea off the line? are you still running on the tune you got back in May/June?

Yep, with FMIC, exhaust and boost controller. also have upgraded the fuel pump.

Nistune is good, I've been running one for almost a year now. Ive done all my my own tuning so far and it's pretty easy once you have an understanding of the relationship between the various maps and constants. I'm running 600cc injectors, Z32 MAF & a GT35 currently on 18psi, unsure of current (havent been on the rollers yet) power but nistune easily handles it.

28th sounds good to me, i can make that one.

here you go,