QWK32

cheers, i've only just got it a week ago. 260Rs sounds awesome, waiting for it to get here will be a killer though, lol. and yeah from a land line you would have to dial 0011 81, but from the mobile +81 should be ok. i ring someone in the uk a bit and never use 0011, just +44.

when i got mine it still didn't work so i pulled the auto surround of and found that the plug to that button was disconnected.

nah, its 6:20pm the guys down south are on daylight savings, so 2hrs behind. up here in QLD we aren't so japan is only an hour behind.

go hassel free and use a plumb back

+81 then the number your calling

this means the boss kit you used for the aftermarket steering wheel isn't HICAS compatible. there are little angle sensors in the steering wheel assembly and some boss kits dont work with them. best to get a boss kit the states it is HICAS compatible.

what size are ca18det injectors. with a safc you dont want to have to take out too much fuel otherwise it indirectly stuffs with your timing. and yes, a safc will support a z32 afm. you just set it up so the safc knows its getting a signal from a z32 and sending it to a r32 gtst ecu.

i had a 600x300x76 size intercooler on my 32 and didn't have to cut the reo up, just had to skim a fraction off the frontbar itself at the bottom.

try turning it on, make sure its set to the coldest and hit the recirculate button and then turn it back off, that should stop the hot air coming in. you could also do the a/c diagnostic and see what error codes pop up. there is a tutorial in the tut/diy section.

nah, dont take the manifold off. i mean, lower the turbo into place, then do up the water line banjo bolt that feeds the turbo, then mount it on the exhuast manifold. i find it easier to do it this way, easier to get a spanner of socket onto the bolt.

get a ecu pinout diagram and take the signal from the ecu, not the engine bay.

Yeah thats right. most horn buttons switch a ground signal or -ve signal to a relay, which then switches the +ve feed to the horn, it gets its -ve side from the chassis. its the +12v feed to the horn that is the line with a fuse in it. and yes the best way to check if its a short on in the wire to the horn is to, disconnect the horn, and do a continuity test between the +ve feed to the horn (on a relay usually pin 87 on a bosch relay), and a chassis ground. if you get continuity its the wiring to the horn which will be mainly in th engine bay. edit: just went and checked the relay and the horn relay pin to test is pin number 3, nissan number thiers differently.

bump

bump

i've done this a few times and its easier if you do up the water line that faces the block before you mount the turbo on the manifold.

yeah, stock is like 2-2.5 bar or about 35psi and rising to like 3bar or 45psi

try looking under the dash near the steering column/fusebox.

nah. most charcoal canisters are useless after 100k k's anyway. if it'll give you piece of mind just get a tee piece and tee it into the boost controller line, or any vac line that is on the intake plenum.

that line usually is connected to where you are saying your turbotech boost controller is connected to. on the crossoverpipe next to the small one.

where you located?

HNR32 is a GTS4 HCR32 is a GTST BNR32 is a GTR

what model safc?

Alloy Radiator Sold

FMIC kit sold

bump