rubba

97 Nissan Stagea Dayz auto Red in colour Just ticked over 90,000 kms Virtually stock, never had the boost raised over max stock 7psi. K&N Pod (comes with stock airbox) Autometer boost gauge JVC headunit with USB port $11k ono. I don't drive it enough anymore, I ride a motorcycle to work these days. Gets driven weekly though to keep everything running well. If anyone is interested SMS/call me and we can discuss in greater detail.

Make: Nissan Model: Stagea RS4 - Dayz Ed. - Leather interior, no sunroof. Milage: ~89 000 km Transmission: Auto Colour: Red Location: Southside Brisbane Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $12500 ono Contact: 0421 979 030 - sms better in business hours, may not be able to answer your call at certain times. Comments / Modifications: Overall mostly stock, boost gauge in mearcat pod, pod filter (will come with airbox), boost solenoid modded to run 7psi all the time rather than dual staging (has never been pushed higher stock max of 7psi), JVC headunit, $1.5k worth of Mongoose alarm/imob system + window kit (get out of car walk away hit the button - locks all doors and all windows rise automatically) Reason for sale: Now working in the city and bus it in, I ride my motorcycles on the weekends. It's just not being driven enough anymore. Images:

I was reluctant to drill/cut any of my interior so I ran mine up through the weather strip and jammed them under the edge of the a pillar plastics. Only problem I can see in the future is the boost line eventually pinching closed from the pressure, but its been working fine for a few weeks.

Damn Brycey... you only just finished putting together your yellow machine... why you bailing so soon? Seems like a lot of people are selling up recently. I started working in the city and am barely driving mine anymore as I catch the train in and its something I am contemplating as well

http://www.mearcat.com.au/ I stumbled onto them from this site, it was posted months ago. The gauge is a 60mm and yes he can precut the gauge holes for $4 extra. I just cut my own hole cause I am fairly handy already

I finally got around to installing my gauge pod and Alan who makes them wanted some pics so I figured I may as well make a post here so you guys can see what they look like installed. As you can see from the last pic I ran the boost line and light wiring down through the weather strip on the door which comes out at the top of the kickpanel and then up under the dash. A 90 deg bend for the boost gauge would be ideal but I just coiled the boost line around inside the pod and it comes out in the front corner. When the door is closed you don't see it anyway. I didn't have any double sided tape so its just in there with blutak which worked way better than I thought it would. Probably not the best permanent solution and it will probably go all melty after a day parked in the sun. Overall it does the job well and looks good! Sure beats having the gauge zip tied onto the side of the cupholders Only thing I would suggest is to get one of the little plastic visors to fit on the front of the gauge cause at night when lit up it reflects up onto the windscreen which annoyed me a bit.

After recently undertaking both of these tasks recently as a nube I can offer some help. Boost controller replaces the stock boost solenoid, which is basically under the edge of the stock airbox next to the left front strut tower. It's a real bitch to get at with the airbox still in. Boost gauge you can plumb into the small nipple on the back of the plenum. Where the arrow is pointing

Mine just arrived in the mail. It fits great, right over the small vent in the top corner of the dash. So that vent will also be ideal to run the wires/boost line through up to the gauge. My question is how have you guys gotten the wire/line into the vent? Did you drill a hole into the duct or something? Also does the right side vent pop out similarly to the middle vent above the a/c controls etc...?

Terminal is your car listed as secure garaged? Mine is so that will perhaps reduce the premium.

I have never had a speeding fine or any other kind of traffic violation fine other than a parking ticket. I had one small fender bender minor acco which apparently made zero difference to the premium. I don't drive 5k's under the limit or anything but I also don't speed excessively. I guess I've just been lucky. When I first got the insurance with JCI I was 23 and it was just over 1k pa. Compared to skylines/soarers which were ~1500 its pretty cheap, it was one small reason I chose a Stagea over other imports.

I've been with JCI for 1 year now, I just turned 24 and got my renewal notice in the mail for $888 12 months full comp.

Doesn't really work on white imo... too much difference, would probably work on yellow or red though.

One of my mates dad's does alarm/imob installs for a living so I got a sweet mates rates + beer payment deal I've got a Mongoose system, don't know the model probably the M80 with glass break sensor and window lift kit. I wasn't sure whether the window lift kit was worth the extra at the time, but I love it! So easy, just close the door walk away and blip its all taken care of.

Just attach some black mesh to the back of the hole?

Turbo grille I also would like a dolphin replacement If enough people are interested, would it be possible to do a dolphin group buy or something? Where can you get them from anyway?

Get a piece of cardboard cut to size and have a look? Tis what I am gonna do when it comes time to get some for myself Just from looking I'd say a slimline front and a square or US sized plate as Queensland names it on the rear would be the way to go.

I'm keen to see how long this lasts bubba... The old socket A AMD chips were known fairly well for running quite hot unless you've got some decent cooling. Not really the best choice for the kind of application you are using it for. A regular HDD, especially and old one I don't think will last terribly long at all. They aren't made to take any kind of movement/bumps while running and you are going to start getting bad sectors pretty quick. A notebook HDD would be a better choice, solid state being the ideal solution. I work in IT with a lot to do with hardware repairs etc so I have a pretty good idea on this

60mm won't fit, I was gonna temporarily put mine in between the climate control panel and my headunit but its too big.

Interested, will have to see when a place and time are picked if I will be able to make it

You can actually buy little plastic visors from mearcat now, maybe that is something to look at getting if you are worried about reflection/sun fading the gauge face.

I am about to go the a pillar mearcat setup, how have you run the boost line and wiring? Just from looking it seems like its placed over the top vent up in the corner which would be an ideal location to run the stuff through. Question is how to get the stuff into the vent from below?

Sweet thanks, just gotta get bored enough to pull all that crap out again heh

I just put my headunit in the other day, reception was fine in my garage but I went through the city today and noticed it was really shit. I did notice when I cut the factory headunit loom off and soldered all the wires up to the new loom there was 1 yellow/black wire left over which I presume is the one you are all talking about? Guess I'm gonna have to pull it all out again sometime and solder it up to the amp remote wire... Does it really have to be fused? Or was that just a precaution in case it wasn't what you thought. This guide was absolute gold though, everything was easy as pie when you know where all the clips are. Although my top vent has a broken clip and has some sticky tape shit wedged in there to hold it firm which proved to be a bit tricky to get out cause it was way harder to pop than the factory clips. Here's how mine ended up: I just used a piece of cardboard with foam glued to the front wedged in place and held with zipties to fill the gap until I can get a proper pocket/whatever. Boost gauge is temp zipped down there too till I get a mearcat or a pillar pod.

It's all good I found the big rubber grommet thing inside the wheel arch. I spent half of yesterday pulling bits of my car apart, I figured while I was there I may as well see how hard it was to get the center console etc out to get at the headunit as I have had a JVC USB unit sitting in my room for 6 months. The guide in the DIY section is spot on and it all came out fairly easily. Surround of the headunit doesn't fit without cutting most of the edges off, so I ended up just leaving it off and putting the unit at the bottom which looks acceptable to me. I covered the hole with a piece of cardboard with foam glued to the front until I can find a pocket/blank plate to fit. For now the boost gauge just sits under the boot release zip tied to some little clips that have always been there on my car. Works great and isn't that far out of the way, just glance down through the lower corner of the steering wheel to see it. Going to get one of the Mearcat gauge pods to eventually relocate it to the A pillar corner. Any advice here on how to run the wiring/boost line up to that? Through the small top vent looks ideal but how to get it there I got no clue. Heres a pic of my finished product for now. Mega thanks to all you guys who supplied the how to stuff

Yeah if they are already off it would be appreciated. I saw the clip things and thats pretty much what stopped me pulling it off earlier today just incase it didn't help my cause. Pulling out the airbox was a lot harder than I originally anticipated, mega fused on nuts/screws and not having a long enough socket extension bar. I got there in the end though with a lot of cursing Couldn't get the sender unit unclipped from the AFM either so that didn't help.