rubba

I did actually search but really there weren't really any conclusive answer on exactly where to go from the engine bay to the cabin. I did see the drivers guard mentioned once by yokotas. I guess that means I gotta remove the plastic panel inside the guard. Are there any hidden catches holding the kickpanel on? I really briefly tried to remove it today, pulled back the weatherstrip and undid the plastic nut next to the accel pedal but it still seemed held on there pretty solid.

Got myself a gauge and had a look today... where can you run it through the firewall? I looked for a good while but came up with nothing. It's not that easy to poke around behind the engine as theres sfa room and from inside I couldn't see any grommets to pass it through. The accelerator cable would've been a perfect spot if there was a grommet there but its a steel plate Theres so much extra plastic paneling everywhere it makes it really hard to find sneaky spots to route things, they are generally too much of a bitch to remove as well for just a quick look... so many screws! I'd rather find out where to look specifically from one of you guys than spend half the day dissembling shit for no reason. On an unrelated note I now see or rather hear why some of you said to avoid a pod filter, it was a Christmas present from my bro... I told him panel filter but he got talked into a pod so I figured I'd just install it and see what all the fuss is about... DAAAAAAAYMN its loud! Anything above 2k and it starts to sound like a jet and the factory bov is now very obvious. Might be a good thing though, will save me some fuel trying to keep it quiet I am pretty handy so I might try and build some kind of enclosure for it to live in.

All you need now is some carbon fibre roof rack covers and it would be the ultimate yellow machine.

If someone were to do it though in theory it should work out cheaper than sourcing r34 parts wouldn't it? r33's are far more common. Although on the other hand there isn't going to be any premade stagea to r33 guards and you'd need to get a lot of stuff fabricated.

Looks absolutely incredible in yellow Also whilst on the topic of Stagea front end conversions, has an R33 front ever been transplanted onto a stag? I have only ever seen R34 front swaps in pics and am curious to see what it would look like. Plus it would be an even rarer combo than the R34Stagea.

You don't have the 50/50 traction S button on do you? Mine gives weird shudders at low speed when turning with that on.

I asked this the other day, the arrow is where you need to be looking

Out of curiosity what offsets are they? I have been looking for some decent 18" rims to suit my s1 for ages and its so rare to see 4 x equal width rims! Maybe these can be it , can you find out how much postage would be from Rocky to Brisbane (pcode 4105).

dmonic1 what offset are those rims? I am currently looking at a set of 18 x 8.5 and 18 x 9.5 +35 offset, just wondering if they would fit without having to lip/roll the guards.

Hrm so its okay to run staggered widths front and back as long as rolling diameter is kept the same? I've been looking for a set of equal width 18" rims for ages on various car forums and its so bloody rare to see any. What size rims and tyres (inc offset) are you guys running? I need a rough idea on what will look decent.

You need to get the chrome strip for the front bar, other than that it looks uber R34 rims look so freaken good too... I want some

I'd say so because JJ have 2 different HKS stag kits on there, one for s1 and one for s2.

Is this the one you guys are talking about that won't fit? Also what are you fellas doing for the rest of the exhaust? JustJap have HKS Stagea specific exhaust packages for $799, has anyone used these or would it be cheaper to just get an exhaust shop to fill in the rest?

Thanks for all the input so far fellas Too late I already cut the solenoid ground wire after reading the huge thread on the process and grounded the solenoid to the bolt that holds the black bracket for the solenoid and the oil reservoir thingy. I am no stranger to a soldering iron so it was easy as pie. I can always solder the ground wire back together on the solenoid... how much do they cost to replace anyway? Surely there would be tons around with all the modded skylines running boost controllers. Well its done anyway and I'm pretty sure its working. I didn't take it for a spin before and I haven't driven it in a few days but just the sound seems different, the spool up noise is louder and the low down response feels pretty good to me.

I finally found a pic, just to confirm that is the nipple to attach the boost gauge line to? (the arrow not the circle )

What exactly is a screamer pipe? From the pics it looked like the wastegate pipe dumps straight out rather than going down the exhaust. Is it even legal?

Thanks for all the info so far guys, has been very useful I tried to find this but no luck so far I have seen the grounding tick in the DIY thread but if theres a better way to do it then I am all for it! I may drop in a highflowed turbo eventually which is why I figured I may as well put a FMIC in.

Just Jap have some specific Stagea FMIC kits, that was what I was looking at getting. Others on here have used the r34GTT kit on their series 1 stags but I haven't heard anything about the stagea kits on here anyway. Also with the boost controller I like the idea of at least a dual stage controller if not electronic as this is my daily driver and having it always run on 10psi for regular driving seems like a waste of fuel and I don't really want to have to fiddle around with the knob in the engine bay to wind it up and down.

So I have finally decided to do some of the more basic performance mods to my stagea and just wanted some advice on the whole procedure. I don't mind getting a bit dirty and having a go myself but I am a stranger to forced induction as my last car was a Hemi powered 1970 Valiant Coupe which was far simpler You gotta start learning somewhere though right. So to start with, for now I do not plan on touching the turbo so it is completely stock as is the entire car. I'd like to push up the boost a bit so what is a decent safe level to aim for? The list to do: Boost gauge Pod filter BOV FMIC Exhaust Auto shift kit Boost controller Boost gauge I need to attach to a line somewhere, where would the most convenient line be to tap into? Also it needs to run through the firewall, where should I be looking for a grommet to pass the line through? Also it obviously needs to be wired to illum so it lights up with lights on, where have you guys spliced it in? Pod filter seems simple enough in theory, remove airbox, the pod should come with an adapter plate to bolt onto the AFM yes? Is is as simple as that? BOV... just replaces the stock valve yes? Is it as simple as unbolting the stock one and bolting up the new one and connecting up whatever came off the stock one to the new one and away you go? If I buy a used one will I need to get/make a new gasket? Some are pretty cheap and nasty and some are very expensive... what are you paying for exactly? Do shitty ones start leaking off boost when they should not be? Or should I not be concerned if I only plan to run only fairly low boost in the grand scheme of things? FMIC seems pretty straight forward - take off front bar, remove the side mount, attach the FMIC on the front and get all the piping in the right place and clamp it up to turbo and intake. Anything I am missing? Exhaust - take it to shop and say gimmie new exhaust pls and hand over cash. Shift kit - shop job as above Boost controller - electronic or manual? Obviously there is a rather large price difference here between the 2, should I be spending that extra money for an electronic controller if I am only pushing it up a small amount? I understand the principle behind the BC that its fooling the wastegate into staying closed but it gets a bit confusing for when you start getting into the electronic stuff. From reading the DIY thread there is a solenoid there at the moment thats dual staging the boost levels ~4-5psi till 4500rpm then 7 after, does this get removed for a manual controller/electronic controller? One of my mates runs a 180 with a $30 Turbotech controller that he swears by and says anything else manual is poo so thats all I have to go on. I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions so anyone kind enough to reply to that epic novel thanks in advance

Wow that r34 stag ute looks incredible! I'd prefer it without the wing though.

I also noticed the mesh... looks freaken weird... what on earth is it for? My only guess would be to prevent red light cameras getting a good shot if it is shooting from an angle. I'm certain there are laws against objects obstructing the plates, I'd be careful if I was you as you might end up copping a fine for that instead.

Back on topic the 260rs widebody posted earlier actually looks pretty good I think.

So cutting a hole under the battery though is technically illegal and defectable? First off has anyone actually been done for this in a Stagea? A mate of mine told me it was possible to get it done properly and mod plated so it is all a-ok with the law. Is there any truth to that?

Indeed, did you mean you have one? Or that they require the cutting of metal to make them fit? I am not really concerned with the bumper support blocking the top part, moreso cuttings holes in the panelwork...

On the topic of FMIC's has anyone used either of the stagea specific kits justjap sell for 449 and 499? Do these require the cutting of anything?