PM-R33

That's nothing Levy, check this one out! It's the most ridiculous expensive wax in the world! www.attention-to-detail.com.au/product/polish-angel-goldfinger Like my description? Haha

No worries

I believe so depending on what you want It depends what is important to you I guess. The main benefit is the scratch resistance since that can't be reproduced with anything else. So in black cars swirl marks are always going to happen unless you are extremely careful with how you wash your car (most of the general public aren't but obviously on a car enthusiast forum like this a large majority are fussy about their car). The added hardness from the coating makes swirl marks nearly a thing of the past as long as you are a little bit smart with washing. For a person that absolutely loves detailing cars and wants to be in the garage every few months all day long, then using high end waxes and such is fun and rewarding so a coating might not be necessary as you probably aren't getting the full benefits. With me, I have a black 2014 Mazda 3 SP25 that my partner uses as a daily and isn't taken care of as much as it should, so for this I did a Mohs+ coating and it is fantastic for it since I know it is completely protected, easy to keep looking good and I don't need to clean it as often. For my M3 I barely drive it and always try keeping it looking as best as I can. I like trying new products that suppliers send me and always do test panels to see how product A goes against product B. I'm extremely fussy with how I wash it and it is dark grey so for my car I like using waxes/sealants. If I didn't have the Mazda as well, I probably would have done a coating but this way I can show customers both vehicles if they want to see real world differences. Check out her black Mazda 3 here: www.attention-to-detail.com.au/project-gallery/mazda3paintcorrection The gloss and depth I got out of that was simply breathtaking but took my a week to do. Either way I always recommend a coating to a customer because it is so different to waxes and sealants and is true modern day technology. Understandably the cost of $600-$800 that I charge might not be for every ones budget, but I still think it is a bargain given what it does.

To get technical Modesta is a coating, not a sealant Modesta is the same patented Japanese technology as what we do under the Gyeon range. Extremely good stuff that lasts for years. This is my write up on the Gyeon Mohs + system but basically applies the same to Modesta BC-03 I've been thinking of offering Modesta as well just in case some people prefer one over the other. www.attention-to-detail.com.au/what-are-gyeon-quartz-cloth-coatings

Hmmm applying a sealant over a wax is the exact opposite of what you are meant to do..... With stacking, you always put the most durable product as your base and least durable as your top. Sealants also require a squeaky clean surface to bond to, this is why you are meant to always do an IPA wipe down of the surface before applying. So having a sealant try to bond to a Carnauba, Montan or Beeswax based wax normally doesn't go to well. I personally haven't played with the Zaino stuff (but I am aware of their range) and the ZCS is meant to be the same as what Nanolex Spray Sealant is which I have plenty of experience in. Very strange...

If you feel like a read, this is an article I wrote about waxes, sealants and coatings with regards to durability and their properties. www.attention-to-detail.com.au/waxes-sealants-and-coatings-explained/

Haha well if I'm ever in Canberra i'll hit you boys up

Nu Finish is junk, simple as that. If you want something that lasts a good amount of time, Duragloss Bonding Agent and then Duragloss Wet Look Sealant over the top is regarded as one of the longest lasting sealant combos available. I do this combination on a lot of clients vehicles since being in NQ I need to give customers something that will last in our extreme climate. Collinite is a good product but is still a hybrid wax (mixture of sealant and carnauba) so won't last as long as a true synthetic polymer. Other options would be looking into coatings like Nanolex, Gyeon, Dodo Juice Supernatural Infinity Coating etc. Also comes down to what you want to spend

I do headlight restorations all the time and for an off the shelf kit, the INVISION one is probably the best one out there as it gives you everything you need, and most importantly a proper UV coating to go over the headlights. If something proper isn't put on the headlights they will quickly start to go yellow again. The best process is multiple stages of wet sanding to remove all imperfections from the headlight, multiple stages of machine polishing to remove the sanding marks and then applying a properly bonding UV agent (I use Gyeon Trim). Good luck

To easy man

Callan if you could get two or three cars organised over a week period it would definitely be something I would consider

Ah ok got ya Ben haha. Yes the roof was extremely thin. Obviously been polished a few times in its life. I dare say it has under 15 micron of clear coat left so I didn't dare remove to much even though a few deep water marks still remained. Better to have a few water marks that you need to squint to look at then to have clear coat failure lol.

What do you mean Ben? On the 50/50 photos? I thought it was quite obvious.

If you pay for air fares and accommodation sure

Thanks guys Yes Menzerna compounds and polishes are definitely my favourite.

Thought I would chuck this up here in case people wanted to see photos of the process Vehicle: 2001 Nissan R34 GTR V Spec II Package: Paint Correction Condition: Unfortunately just because someone is a “professional” doesn't always mean they are good at what they do. Take this R34 GTR for example that the unlucky owner had to take to numerous different spray painters to get the job done to an acceptable standard and this is what he unfortunately was left with. While holograms are cool on trading cards, they are not cool on your paint. This is where we stepped in to correct the shoddy work done by someone else. The vehicle was covered in major swirl marks throughout the paintwork and had bad water etching on numerous panels. The bonnet had the most holograms throughout followed by the whole drivers side of the vehicle. Holograms are caused during machine polishing when either not done with correct technique, using dirty pads, using poor quality product or a mixture of all three. Process: The vehicle was foam decontaminated to remove loose dust and dirt followed by a two bucket hand wash. To remove any overspray, the whole vehicle was clayed and then finally dried. All rubbers, plastics and badges were taped up to avoid getting damaged or while polishing residue on them during the paint correction stage. Using a paint depth gauge the panels were measured and it was found that the roof had a scary amount of paint left. Extra care had to be taken on the roof and heavy compounding was avoided in this area. The vehicle was compounded using Menzerna FG500 on a rotary polisher followed by polishing with PF2500 using a DA polisher. Finally the paintwork was “jeweled” using SF4000 and an extremely soft Menzerna pad on a medium speed backing off pressure during the final pass. This was done to extract extra lustre from the paint. Following paint correction the vehicle was covered in Duragloss’ bonding agent and Duragloss’ wet look sealant. The bonding agent is a fairly unique product from Duragloss as it is applied to the paintwork but not removed. The second product goes directly on top of the first and once dried they are removed together acting similar to a Part A/Part B epoxy. This gives the polymer sealant much longer durability. The results were spectacular with a complete change in the way the vehicle looked. Extreme amounts of gloss and depth were achieved with an extremely wet mirror finish! Time Taken: Approx 20 hours All the photos are on the website or Facebook page if you want to see more. www.facebook.com/ATD.AttentionToDetail Thanks for looking Phil

Up for sale is my brand new Focal Utopia 8" Subwoofer, part number 21WX. Was going to eventually replace my factory BMW subwoofer with this one to go along with my Utopia component speakers but never got around to doing it and can't be bothered any more. Has been sitting in the box since purchase last year (think I have taken it out of the box twice). I know Colin and Bill personally from Focal Australia from dealing with them for a number of years so happy to give you their number so you can authenticate serial numbers if you wish. RRP is $1199 and I am asking $700 for it. Did have it listed for $800 so have just dropped the price another $100. Don't think you will find this subwoofer brand new for this kind of money. These are regarded as one of the best SQ (Sound Quality) subwoofers on the market. Great for if you are an audiophile instead of a bass junky. Have heard these subs in real life and they sound amazing, one of my favourite subs on the market. Specs can be found here: www.focalaustralia.com.au/shop/21wx-8-utopia-subwoofer/ Also have a brand new box of Focal BAM XXL sound deadening material RRP $329. Had it listed for $250 (cheapest on ebay is $275) but happy to work out a deal for the subwoofer and sound deadening with a serious buyer. www.focalaustralia.com.au/shop/bam-xxxl-acoustic-insulation/ Can put up photos of the actual boxes and stuff if you want but it is all brand new with everything you get when you buy from Focal (East Coast Distributors Pty Ltd). Any questions feel free to ask Cheers Phil

Welcome Brett Not many Townsville people on here any more.

Any time

Very nice work mate

Terry had that Bayside Blue R34 GTR been resprayed? As 320 microns for a R34 to me would mean respray. I measured a Bayside Blue one last year and from memory it was under 150 (like most Japanese cars).

Should look like a perfect mirror once you are done

Having read what you have said, it now sounds like maybe using to much product? Especially when using a good quality high carnauba content wax (such as Dodo Juice, Swissvax etc.) you only need very small amounts and personally I would always apply them by hand as opposed to a machine as you are not needing pressure and heat to help you. Always ensure the panels are cool and never do it in the sun with carnauba waxes. You can only get away with doing it in the sun with synthetic polymers but even then I still wouldn't do it as panel temps can get over 60 degrees. If you can easily manipulate the streaks just use a few different soft microfiber cloths (using good quality MF cloths is especially important here as cheapies will make the job much harder) and keep gently wiping away until all the residue is gone. But it does sound to me like maybe using to much product so maybe give that a go. Also another thing to think about is with a lot of waxes once they are cured and removed, they are hydroscopic for the first 12-24 hours so avoid getting the car wet and they may leave a slight haze during this period due to absorbing moisture from the air (an annoying issue for me in such a high humidity climate of NQ).

What kind of wax are you using mate? I'm guessing a liquid based synthetic polymer? Are you using a fairly slow speed setting on your machine? When you say streaking do you mean it is difficult to remove in some areas or do you mean once you buff it off you are noticing streaks our in the sun? Sorry for all the questions just trying to narrow down the issue

Not a problem man. Even if you get yourself a small Gerni or Karcher for $120 it will do you for most jobs.