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kingtube69 last won the day on November 20 2016

kingtube69 had the most liked content!

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About kingtube69

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    R33 GTST S2
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  1. I believe I answered my own question, it appears it may have something to do with the WBC being disconnected at some stage. Seems fine now, nonetheless I'll keep an eye on it just in case it pops up again
  2. Thats sick! Sell the holder to me or at least let me measure it so I can 3D print them, please? ------------------ Update, got the wideband finished today, went to performance exhaust center in Northmead and they sorted it out in under an hour. I'm also going to have them redo the whole exhaust with good mufflers and cat in either Stainless complete or mild steel with stainless muffler - The blokes at the shop ensured me they could make a high flow system that is quieter than my current system and also confirmed that my current cat is 200 cpsi. Further to this they pointed out some quick and easy improvements. Didn't get a chance to take many photos but I depinned the connector for the wideband again today and slid on some heat proof hose sleeve as the wires run beside the dump pipe. Ideally I would like to get more of the sleeve and do even more of the wires but how it is for now us fine. You can see there is some braided sleeve over a portion of the wires that is away from heat. The remainder of the wire is done in heat sleeve. More to come as I start ordering new parts in the coming weeks.
  3. R33 CEL - Unknown code Hi All, I recently installed a Haltech Wideband Controller in my R33 GTST - Upon connection to the ECU with my laptop I noticed an additional CEL that wasn't there before "U1133" - Normally the Haltech gives you a description but this had no description. I cleared the codes and took it for a drive and it hasn't come up since - Should I be worried about this and does anyone know what code U1133 is for? Thanks in advance!
  4. Forgot to mention in the last update that I still need the bung welded up which I'll get done Monday and then I've struck a deal with Johnny to get him to setup launch control
  5. Hahaha now you have me interested - What did you get? -------------------------- Update: Bit the bullet and bought a Haltech Wideband with gauge the other day and got cracking with the install. A couple things I had to do was find another way of routing the wideband wires because they would have been too short to run around the drivers side and down so I poked a hole with a coat hanger then screw driver through the main loom grommet - I also had to depin the deuschte connector to get the wires through the firewall. Once I fed that through I and filed a near perfect hole in the back of the glove box so I could run the wires for the controller, USB for the ECU and the CAN cable for the controller. Then I ran the gauge wiring up and terminated it with a nice 4 wire connector from Jaycar. I put the wideband where my boost gauge was and the boost gauge where the oil temp was. I'm interested to know if anyone has any ideas for a multiple gauge setup that is easy to read and access. I was wondering if a tablet that is mounted in the glovebox or has a mounted infront of the existing gauges with the haltech software displaying stats would be a good alternative to multiple gauges in shitty looking holders - My last thought was to get a racepack dash but Jesus they are expensive and red hot if a cop spots it. Gauge fitted Controller located nicely in the glovebox (excuse the thongs!. I'll affix it semi-permanently when I have done the free air calibration but since I recently got a 3D printer I would like to see if I can make a nice mount for it with a section to hold the USB cable for data logging and tuning
  6. Factory hoses are shit and dry up over time. Mine are the same, it's probably worthwhile just changing them anyway
  7. Ended up running it to the back instead, it was a straight run and probably only 1-2m longer if that. Thanks for the help guys!
  8. Bit the bullet and went with the Haltech for simplicity. Out of curiosity does anyone have recommendations for power connections? It needs constant 12V not switched - I'm not sure if it matters but it could be run to the boot where the battery is (being such a long run) or is there somewhere better? Cheers
  9. Hmm, I'll head outside and look at the ecu shortly but if I were to get another WBO2 + the AUX harness it would be almost the same as getting the haltech wideband kit I definitely like the idea of not having to buy the Haltech kit though - Do you recommend any particular WBO2s if I go that route? Cheers
  10. Definitely tempted to come but I'm just returning from 4 weeks of leave so my boss may not be too impressed if I ask for more time off.
  11. R33 Haltech Wideband Install Hi All, I'm looking at getting a Haltech wideband sensor, controller and gauge for my R33 GTST so I can keep an eye on my car closer. In particular, this kit from Golbeys because it is a CAN product and can tie in with my existing Haltech Platinum Pro ECU (i.e. not just a gauge) Would I need to do anything out of the norm to set it up? I've read about adding it to the ECU in ECU manager but will that cause any issues with the existing tune? I would like to have the gauge and the ability to log without affecting anything already configured. In addition to the above has anyone used this on here before and have they had any issues? Cheers!
  12. Keen to know the details considering I'm running an ATR45 (pretty laggy imo)
  13. I agree with jmknights92 - I would also invest in a wideband too, check what those AFRs are doing.
  14. Thanks Johnny! You're the one who motivated me to get the HICAS done so its good to hear I can repay the favor! What are you talkinabeet
  15. Bring it out of the shed and on a cruise with me! ----------- Finished polishing and reassembling the car today. I did a boost leak test and found a bunch which I would have never thought of. Fixed most of the leaks with the exception of 1 which is the BOV flange until I blew off the intake pipe at around 10PSI because the soapy water had seeped around the hose and clamp. Not sure why the BOV is leaking so bad but I'll need to work out another way of sealing it. Took it out for a test drive and it was boosting higher than normal so I turned the AVCR down a bit. Overall happy with the results, car runs nicely now too. I also changed the silicone joiners and the hose clamps on the FMIC because the old ones were shit and bugging me for ages