MissR34

it ok Sarah i like ur decals

how much gold is she holding????

yeah the big tyres go with the big butt she got too

i got 19x8.5 and 19x9.5 on my R34 hmmm 235's on the front with a yummy 275's on the back.....drroooolll lol

me want!!!!!!!!!!!!!

spotted a maroon r33 with gay spec supra style rear wing, and the dude with the black r33 who ive met before, at renmark this afternoon

i see what you did there.........

Distributorless ignition systems (DIS) have been around for almost a decade now, and have eliminated much of the maintenance that used to be associated with the ignition system. No distributor means there is no distributor cap or rotor to replace, and no troublesome vacuum or mechanical advance mechanisms to cause timing problems. Consequently, DIS ignition systems are pretty reliable. Even so, that does not mean they are trouble-free. Failures can and do occur for a variety of reasons. So knowing how to identify and diagnose common DIS problems can save you a lot of guesswork the next time you encounter an engine that cranks but refuses to start, or one that runs but is missing or misfiring on one or more cylinders. If an engine cranks but will not start, is it fuel, ignition or compression? Ignition is usually the easiest of the three to check because on most engines, all you have to do is pull off a plug wire and check for spark when the engine is cranked. On coil-over-plug DIS systems, there are no plug wires so you have to remove a coil and use a plug wire or adapter to check for a spark. If there is no spark in one cylinder, try another. No spark in any cylinder would most likely indicate a failed DIS module or crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. Many engines that are equipped with electronic fuel injection also use the crankshaft position sensor signal to trigger the fuel injectors. So, if there is no spark and no injector activity, the problem is likely in the crank position sensor. No spark in only one cylinder or two cylinders that share a coil would tell you a coil has probably failed. DIS COIL CHECKS The coils in DIS ignition systems function the same as those in ordinary ignition systems, so testing is essentially the same. But the driveability symptoms caused by a weak coil or dead coil will be limited to one or two cylinders rather than all the cylinders. Many DIS systems use the "waste spark" setup where one coil fires a pair of spark plugs that are opposite one another in the firing order. Others, including the newer coil-over-plug systems, have a separate coil for each spark plug. Individual DIS coils are tested in essentially the same way as epoxy-filled (square-type) ignition coils. First, isolate the coil pack by disconnecting all the leads. Set the ohmmeter in the low range, and recalibrate if necessary. Connect the ohmmeter leads across the ignition coil primary terminals, and compare the primary resistance reading to specifications (typically less than 2 ohms). Then connect the ohmmeter leads across the coil secondary terminals and compare the secondary resistance reading to specifications (typically 6,000-30,000 ohms). If readings are outside the specified range, the coil is defective and needs to be replaced. If measuring the secondary resistance of a DIS coil is difficult because of the coils location, try removing the wires from the spark plugs and measure secondary resistance through the plug wires rather than at the secondary terminals on the coils. Just remember to add in a maximum of 8,000 ohms of resistance per foot for the plug wires. DIS MODULE & SENSOR CHECKS Here is a little trick that will literally show you if a DIS module and its crankshaft sensor circuit are working: connect a halogen headlamp to the spade terminals that mate the DIS module to the coils. A headlamp is recommended here because it puts more of a load on the module than a test lamp. If the headlamp flashes when the engine is cranked, the DIS module and crankshaft position sensor circuit are functioning. Therefore, the problem is in the coils. If the headlamp does not flash, or there is no voltage to the module or coil pack when the engine is cranked, the problem is most likely in the crankshaft sensor circuit. On most vehicles, a bad crank position sensor will usually set a fault code, so use a scan tool to check for a code. Or, check the crank sensor itself. Magnetic crank sensors can be tested by unplugging the electrical connector and checking resistance between the appropriate terminals. If resistance is not within specs, the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced. Magnetic crank position sensors produce an alternating current when the engine is cranked so a voltage output check is another test that can be performed. With the sensor connected, read the output voltage across the appropriate module terminals while cranking the engine. If you see at least 20 mV on the AC scale, the sensor is good, meaning the fault is probably in the module. If the output voltage is low, remove the sensor and inspect the end of it for rust or debris (magnetic sensors will attract iron and steel particles). Clean the sensor, reinstall it and test again. Make sure it has the proper air gap (if adjustable) because the spacing between the end of the sensor and the reluctor wheel or notches in the crankshaft will affect sensor output voltage. If the air gap is correct and output is still low, replace the sensor. Hall effect crankshaft position sensors typically have three terminals; one for current feed, one for ground and one for the output signal. The sensor must have voltage and ground to produce a signal, so check these terminals first with an analog voltmeter. Sensor output can be checked by unplugging the DIS module and cranking the engine to see if the sensor produces a voltage signal. The voltmeter needle should jump each time a shutter blade passes through the Hall effect switch. If observed on an oscilloscope, you should see a square waveform. No signal would tell you the sensor has failed. DIS PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS In instances where the engine starts and runs but does not perform well (lack of power, poor fuel economy, spark knock, elevated emissions, etc.), the problem may be outside the DIS system. First, the individual coils should be tested to make sure their primary and secondary resistance is within specs. If the coils are all okay, the electronic spark control circuit may be receiving bad information from another sensor. Low MAP sensor output voltage or a coolant sensor that reads cold all the time will allow more spark advance than normal. This, in turn, may cause detonation (spark knock) problems when the engine is under load. So too can a faulty knock sensor or an EGR valve that is not working. High MAP output voltage or a misadjusted throttle position sensor can have the opposite effect and cause the spark control system to retard timing more than normal. Retarded timing will reduce performance and fuel economy. Do not forget, too, that ordinary secondary ignition problems can also cause misfires with DIS the same as a conventional ignition system. A bad spark plug wire or a worn or fouled spark plug will act just like a weak or bad DIS coil. So anytime you find an ignition problem that is isolated to a single cylinder, remove and inspect the spark plug and plug wire to rule out those possibilities.

may i ask why you are considering this method?

i got rasin bread toast

there are plenty out there unfortunetly that do......

if your tuner has said that yes it does sound somewhat like a wrx then it is gauranteed to be a coilpack......mine did it 3 times lol anyways here is some info for you to help you understand a lil more: ­The spark plug is quite simple in theory: It forces electricity to arc across a gap, just like a bolt of lightning. The electricity must be at a very high voltage in order to travel across the gap and create a good spark. Voltage at the spark plug can be anywhere from 40,000 to 100,000 volts. The spark plug must have an insulated passageway for this high voltage to travel down to the electrode, where it can jump the gap and, from there, be conducted into the engine block and grounded. The plug also has to withstand the extreme heat and pressure inside the cylinder, and must be designed so that deposits from fuel additives do not build up on the plug. Spark plugs use a ceramic insert to isolate the high voltage at the electrode, ensuring that the spark happens at the tip of the electrode and not anywhere else on the plug; this insert does double-duty by helping to burn off deposits. Ceramic is a fairly poor heat conductor, so the material gets quite hot during operation. This heat helps to burn off deposits from the electrode Some cars require a hot plug. This type of plug is designed with a ceramic insert that has a smaller contact area with the metal part of the plug. This reduces the heat transfer from the ceramic, making it run hotter and thus burn away more deposits. Cold plugs are designed with more contact area, so they run cooler. The difference between a "hot" and a "cold" spark plug is in the shape of the ceramic tip. (which is inside the plug itself) The carmaker will select the right temperature plug for each car. Some cars with high-performance engines naturally generate more heat, so they need colder plugs. If the spark plug gets too hot, it could ignite the fuel before the spark fires; so it is important to stick with the right type of plug for your car ­The coil is a simple device -- essentially a high-voltage transformer made up of two coils of wire. One coil of wire is called the primary coil. Wrapped around it is the secondary coil. The secondary coil normally has hundreds of times more turns of wire than the primary coil. Current flows from the battery through the primary winding of the coil. The primary coil's current can be suddenly disrupted by the breaker points, or by a solid-state device in an electronic ignition. If you think the coil looks like an electromagnet, you're right -- but it is also an inductor. The key to the coil's operation is what happens when the circuit is suddenly broken by the points. The magnetic field of the primary coil collapses rapidly. The secondary coil is engulfed by a powerful and changing magnetic field. This field induces a current in the coils -- a very high-voltage current (up to 100,000 volts) because of the number of coils in the secondary winding. The secondary coil feeds this voltage to the distributor via a very well insulated, high-voltage wire. most older older cars have leads (such as my 1985 AE82 Corolla), instead of coilpacks (which is what the skyline uses), but both do the same job as they are attached to the spark plug itself hope this helps

no need to get violent lol

i dont really think a comment like that was necessary dude.......

well i shot gunned it first so its mine and so are those legs of hers lol

hey dude yes the r34 has both coil packs and spark plugs. the spark plugs are located underneath the coil pack itself. does it sound like a wrx? (only cause you say "lumpy" - so obviously your car isnt running on all 6 cylinders) if so then yes it is most likely a coilpack. if your going to replace your spark plugs probably go with ones that have a heat rating of 5 or 6 (NGK brand ones) there is no real difference between series 1 and series 2 NA motors. there is a difference with the turbo engines however. hope this helps to confuse you less!

um how bout dont touch it at all!!!!!!!!!! leave that to your tuner to touch - dont play with it at all - my tuner would kill me if he found out i played with that

i want her arse

$60

i found a job that starts on monday hope i get it

yeah i got red fittings on my catch can - would love to put blue ones on but they soo expensive to do

not much happening on sau today,...............

that looks nice as dude is there any real reason why most people are saying go braided line for the catch can?

yesterday was nice here, it was windy but really warm, today is just windy and cold

i dont understand why people have to do that.......