TuneR32

Having cooling issues with the bonnet, got plans to get some vents cut cause i am sick of my power steering fluid boiling over. Before I test out my high school metalwork skills, anyone got a recommendation for a custom panel/paint shop on the GC? To be worth it, needs to be cheaper than a new carbon bonnet (<$1K). Alternatively, anyone done anything like this before? And if so, how afraid should I be?

Hey all, missed the start of this one, but will b keen to do a weeknight cruise if anyone else is up. Cant make bbq sunday cause I have the working weekend from hell, 8am till 10pm both days. Urgh. Keep seeing a couple nice R32's around main beach, anyone put their hands up for ownership? My R32 is finally back on the road after an epic RB30 rebuild, so will be keen to put some kms on it, if anyone else is up for a drive. I see so many liners on the road down here, but so few getting involved with them. Props to everyone here.

Got some spare scuffed 18" rims? I am upgrading to bigger brakes, and need some track wheels for my R32 GTR. Ideally 18x7.5 front and 18x8.5 rear. Condition can be as bad as you want as long as they are straight and light.

yeah man, got some i just pulled off mine. 17 inch with good treads. Give me a PM and we can organise it. I am on the GC so you would have to pick them up.

having just completed mods on mine that took 10 months, i reckon u should wait and get it done once and properly. will be much cheaper that way and u can get a clear idea on what u are going to use the car for before you mod it. a serious track car is very different from a good streeter, and a hybrid is difficult to get right. and 6 months isnt that long to wait to do the job properly.

Thanks in advance for anyone who can help me with this one . . . Story is, gearbox rebuilt by someone who is apparently very good after metal shavings were found in the oil. Everything in the box was replaced except the actual gears, and good quality oil (redline i think) was used in the box. Clutch was also replaced with standard twin plate (unsure of brand). Car has had engine rebuild with upgraded power, 350kw from 240kw. Took delivery of it yesterday, and theres a problem changing 1st to 2nd, and 2nd to 3rd. 1st to 2nd is worst, and its worst when the engine and drivetrain are warmed up. Even on slow changes, theres a grinding of gears between changes. Doesnt happen on the higher gears, only on the lower ones. Double clutching it stops it, it is worst when the chages are fast or under power. It feels like the gear doesnt completely disengage when changing, or like the synchros arent meshing properly. I can feel meshing gears through the stick, and it feels like they are still spinning when the clutch is in, and then they have to slow down and reengage in the next gear. The master cylinder was recently rebuilt, and the slave looks like its not leaking. Any ideas? I am wondering if the synchro is somehow wrong, or if the clutch isnt disengaging properly. Dont know how to go about diagnosing it though.

I took delivery of my 26/30 rebuild literally yesterday from Mick at Signature Performance. It was a long build, but he was good about pricing, and its making great power (355kw @ 16psi). Give me a week and i will tell you if i love it or not! We put lots of quality gear into it (Mahle pistons etc) and theres a girdle template he made for mine to stop torsion between block and head. Worth giving him a call and discussing options 38215281.

its indefensible to say you "had to" exceed the speed limit by 80km because you were being chased. chased by who? kung fu panda? the mafia? anyone sensible just pulls into a servo, or in front of a police station. i agree about the imported vs domestic car angle, would be interesting to see the stats on it. people who put time and effort into their car are less likely to put themselves in a position where they will prang it, i reckon.

its a sad thing, both for everyone involved and because it creates a mentality that people with fast cars are intrinsically unsafe and a menace to other drivers. is sucks that a single bad decision causes such big ripples.

i am running Mahle pistons in my 26/30 hybrid. i think they are 8.5:1 - no idea on kw output from them yet, as during the run-in my turbos went pop and meant my rebuilt engine had to get re-rebuilt. on the good side, the pistons were completely undamaged despite the bore getting damaged, so i can vouch for their construction. on the bad side, new rings had to be ordered from the USA as there are none available here (apparently). will post again once it has had a tune for power.

looks like a great buy, shame i am not in the market atm . . . . good luck with the sale!

the skyline mantra "i will be there if my car is ready in time!" anytime after V8 supercar weekend i will be keen. Mountains anyone?

guys, this is an absolute no-brainer. if you have a gtr and you do any kind of serious driving with it, you need to buy one of these. i bought one early in my gtr days, and it was in all sincerity a better performance upgrade than the $2000 suspension. the difference is noticeable immediately, and as soon as there is any driving condition where grip is compromised you can dial in exactly what you want the car to do. and even better, its designed and built by a qld SAU member.

Hey guys, just for your interest, mine was the engine with turbo failure (moral: always ask to see the receipts for "new" turbos). Just about to begin the process of running it in, should be having an early power tune next week. Will keep you posted as to what it ends up with. Running standard garret T28/40's, low mounted. For those thinking of the conversion from a gtr, its a very different beast to drive. If you like your car to feel light and punchy, imho stick with the rb26.

Yeah, I agree. Great game all round, fantastic end to the series. NSW played with lots of heart but not enough flair. Only spoiled by the spear tackle in the 2nd half, which will hurt the roosters when he gets his weeks, but didnt help NSW much. Oh well, next year.