
SL1D1N
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Everything posted by SL1D1N
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Up for sale is a Blitz turnflow frontmount intercooler kit RRP $1200 new Its a complete kit with all brackets, pipes, hoses and hose clamps. This uses the standard piping so no holes needed to be cut. A little section of the reo has be be cut out to fit it. in good condition with very little damage came off my r33 series one, but am told it will fit a r32 and 34 for more info http://www.blitz.com.au/Intercooler.html $600 located in frankston, PM me for any questions cheers I also have a front reo in good condition that has already been cut out to fit a cooler. $100
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Gtst Link Management Ecu For Rb20det
SL1D1N replied to SL1D1N's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
SOLD -
Link management stand alone ECU, mounted in factory ECU casing. In fair condition. ECU has tunned map for an RB20det with HKS 2540, 550 denso injectors, 14psi and made around 170kwatw. Reason for selling, need the money to pay for fines. $400 posted or can pick up PM or call Luke 0422175184
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check your fuel pressure and make sure your BOV is working 100%
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If anyone is interested i have solved the problem. I bought a new relay for the indicators but one thats not as load sensitive as the factory one. The factory relay will flash fast if there is less than 20 watts be used by the globe. And with my new relay i guess its somewhere around 5 watts. So all i did was use the original plug in the parker socket and just wired the indicator wires to it. Then got a T15 wedge globe 12v 15w because the 5w globes were not quite bright enough and simply put a orange sock on it. easy cheers
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craved - id say its that - put a resistor between the +ve and -ve yeh thats what i thought but then a tried a neon, and a indicator globe from the back and surely they would pull enough current but still flashed fast, maybe do you think there was a resistor built into the original indicators ?? ps custom LED idea sounds mint but dont you think you will have trouble with RWC?
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i have encounted a problem and need help bad i have disconnected my current indicators and hooked them up to the parker globes only using the green and black wire. they get power fine but now all three front, side and rear flash fast as if a globe had blown or something? i tried wiring the other side, but the same problem so i tried eathing the blue wire as well, did nothing. all indicators work except they flash too fast. when i push the hazard switch they all flash at the right speed except the switch is a bit dodgey, if you fiddle with it sometimes one side will flash then the other. so i need a new switch and is that causing the flashing to work incorrectly or maybe are the globes in the parkers not using enought current so it thinks the globe is blown and flashes fast????? thanks in advance cheers
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i have recently had a new front bar fitted (top secret) to my r33 and am going to put the indicators in the headlights instead of having tacky lights in the bar if anyone have done this before or knows if its legal let us know. what im going to do is: firstly get some orange globes for the sockets then i am goin to move the parker globes and sockets to the high beam casing. drilling a hole in the plastic cover outter then the inner just big enough so the socket fits in nice and snug and the rubber o-ring on it will seal it up. the simply mover the indicator to the original parker spot by using the same sockets what do you think??
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hello i have recently bought a 2 channel fusion amp to power my 6.5 inch alpine slipts. the amp and speakers are all hooked up correctly however when i turn the key to radio the headunit turns on fine and the rear speakers work fine (not amped) but the amp goes straight into protect. Then i found if i leave the power supplied to it and simply remove the power or remote wire and reconnet with the head unit still operating it works fine. One of my mates said something about when the key is turned the amp receives power from before the headunit. does anyone know if there is some sort of delay or anything to fix this problem or will i just have to put a switch in???? cheers
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as title says need a rear bar reo for a r33 gtst series one or two dosnt matter i think, prefer a series 1 somewhere around frankston or dandynong cheers
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This is a standard low mount turbo manifold to suit a RB30. It has a T4 flange welded on top of the standard flange and normal size stud holes with a 1.5mm thread. Welded on the other side is a flange that uses a v band clamp for the external wastegate. The wastegate is a 32mm at a control pressure of 13PSI (90kpa) and is made by Normalair-Garrett The wastegate has a screamer pipe bolted to to it but could be plumbed back in by most exhaust shops. Manifold is in good condition has a tiny chunk missing from in between the turbo flange and doesnt come with studs or gasket Came off XGMTOG asking $450, will post at buyes expense cheers
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hello i have a r33 rb25det with a gt2871r internally gated turbo on it with all the supporting mods. I will be running about 17 psi with my EBC but the turbo only has a 12psi actuator on it. I am thinking that i will start running into boost problems like boost creep etc. so was thinking should upgrade to to an actuator with a more simalar pressure like 16 psi or something like an ajustable HKS one. if anyone can shed some light on this would be much appreiciated. cheers
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just need the LHF lower control arm with the ball joint im located in melbourne cheers
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LH tail light in good condition. comes with all globes and wiring in good working order does not have trim around outside Fits R33 series 1 and 2 $50ono plus postage just pm me cheers
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R33 Do I Need Injectors Or Reg. Or Both?
SL1D1N replied to SL1D1N's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
ok that sounds good i will just keep the standard fpr and put some 550cc or there abouts injectors in. i am running a microtech LT12S for management thanks heaps -
just need some help with this, i have all the supporting mods and want to make around the 260rwkw. almost at tune stage but need to know whether or not i need to buy bigger injectors or whether i can just put a fuel pressure reg on it and bump up the pressure. i have an ignition DVD with a hybrid 25/30 in it making 280rwkw on standard injectors, how is this done, i thought they max out at around 220-230??? also if i do have to put injectors in it, will i also need to put a reg on it?? cheers in advance
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PM sent
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im looking for the little peice that sits in this hole in the dash surround if anyone has one, maybe replaced it with a switch or something? cheers
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Microtech Lts-12, Plug And Play R33gtst
SL1D1N replied to roy33's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
not quite, the PFC has a closed loop circut, therefore always correcting the air-fuel ratio where as the microtech dosnt.