SL1D1N

Got some random bits and pieces need to get rid of. Will post some items at buyers expense, but would rather local pickup. all prices are neg. Have Plates of BIGPWR, tuff plates white on black will post pictures soon $5000ono Genuine Momo steering wheel, including boss kit in resonable condtion. $100 Sewing has started to come un done on left side. Turbosmart BOV, vee port, in good condition, comes with r33 adapter. $100 R33 hicas electric unit, was working fine when took off car $30 R33 Standard fuel pump done only about 5000kms, upgraded to 040 $50 SR20 standard manifold $30 R33 spoiler wing, white in good condition with working brake light and padding for boot, $75 R33 series 2 front bar in resonable condition, with working lights, $100 SOLD R33 A/C system condenser, thermo fan, receiver-dryer all $25 each Also have all of ac system for a vl turbo same price as above

made a misstake will post up soon

Point taken, guess i will sell my safc and start saving. cheers

Hello, i have a r33 gtst with a few mods and are chasing around 250rwkw (or more) and have most of the supporting mods. bigger turbo, frontmount, full exhaust, 040 pump, ebc, safc, (bigger injectors coming soon) I realise that my safc will only be able to run a failry safe 200rwkw, and need to know wat i should get that is able to run this power. Also say i dont get a stand alone computer will it be able to get rid of the fuel cut and boost cut? another question is there any way of getting rid of these cuts using the standard computer? power fc is not that cheap for a rb25 and im not that keen on getting it tuned ect. so any feedback on how e-manage systems work or other management which are good for wat im chasing is appreciated. cheers

Thanks for the help, im only chacing around 220 to 240kw at the wheels so guess i will see how i go with my current mods, and maybe down the track look at something that can support, bigger injectors, afm ect. seeing as my safc dosnt. i will post up results after my tune, cheers

I have recently finished upgradeing my car and think i am ready to get it tuned. mods are as follows: gt2871 turbo apexi safc (standard ecu) fmic full exhaust bosch 040 profec b EBC I am happy to max out my injector duty cycle but need to know before i go and get it tuned will i need some form or fuel cut defender, and how does this work, and where can i get it from? Also will i need anything else? comments are welcome cheers

Need to know where i can find an adapter for my wolf 3d version 3.1 to fit my standard RB20det ECU wiring loom. or if anyone has one to sell let me know cheers

if front bar dosnt go threw ill take it

Yeh it simply vents to the atmophere. Has a higher or lower setting on pressure release. To suit gts t Ill take $80

Firstly that link didnt work, and im not running big boost, nor is the turbo that much bigger than my stock one. I undersatnd that its those things however i know people making heaps more power than mine on the same stock set up. I need to know wat is actually causing this to happen. I dont just want to throw parts at it.

Hello my car is a R33 series 1 T2871r Frontmount full exhaust Safc I Profec B EBC (turned off untill tune) boost spikes to about 12psi Stock ecu, injectors and afm i recently replaced the coils which fixed my missfire. The other day i was driving it and under full load on boost felt like it started to do it again. Except this time it would fully stop for a split second then go again, then stop, and go again. Happens at higher revs and when my foot is to the boards. Car is untuned getting a 040 soon then will get it tuned. i have heard of fuel cuts on these maybe thats it?? Any ideas cheers

I have a Turbosmart blow off valve for sale. Its a Vee Port in good condition and has the fitting that bolts straight onto the intake pipe where the stock system goes, R33. $100 plus postage.

Good job on the car man, cant wait to see it boosted!!

Sometime in the neer future i am going to buy bigger injectors for my R33 gtst, and wat i need to know is wat does re maping the standard ecu involve. Does re maping alow the stock ecu to be able to control upgraded injectors or do i have to buy something like a PFC to run them?? cheers

Have you still got the boost controller for sale?? cheers

PM sent

PM sent

Hey do they fit series one??

cheers

Hello, putting a lock bar on my r33 gtst and i have been told that because there will be no motor plugged in there will be a fault and the car will retard the timing. Is this right?? or wont it effect it. Also when i do take it out should i pull out the Hicas control unit or does it not matter, and how will this effect my steering. cheers

I have fixed the problem. There is a speed control unit in the boot next to the ariel behind the trims. This controls the whether or not the pump is at full tilt or on low mode just for idleing, something like that. It was simply unplugged, plugged it back in and she runs like a dream. thanks to thread 'Imediately starts then stalls R33' by treo cheers

Hello My car simply will not idle. Runs fine apart from that, on start up in the cold it goes right up to about 1500 then dies. The fuel pump simply turns off unless you keep stabbing the accelerator. All it does is fades off then dies. On ignition the pump primes fine, and when drving is sweet. Also when the engine is still hot and i turn it off and on, or say come back 5 mins later the pump will keep pumping and idle for about 20 seconds. What controls the signals to the fuel pump?? any ideas people cheers

The car will idle for approx 1 second and then just fade off and die. No jumping up and down just slowly dies. The car runs alright apart from the idle except when i put it flat to the floor at about 4500 i get a bad miss, if i dont put it flat to the floor just keep the throttle at about 75% its fine. But i think the missfire is a different issue. I replaced the fuel filter about 3,000 ks ago. However the idle problem started before i replaced the filter.

Hello I am having idle issues with my rb25, the car runs fine revs fine and i put a new stock pump in it about 10000ks ago. I have to keep stabing the accelerator to keep it running, then it will drop to idle for 1 second then just fade off and die. However say i take the car for a spin for a while, turn the car off and come back when its still warm it will idle for approx 20 seconds. Then it fades off and dies again. But the issue i dont get is i can here the pump turn off after that 20 seconds is up ??????? wtf any help would be good cheers

Hello had a similar problem on my RB25, check all your battery connections and check the power under your bonnet at the fuse box make sure there tight, i think your ignition power will be loose, take the leads off give them a clean and put back on and tighten up.