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jdmser

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Posts posted by jdmser

  1. I'm also going to a air to water setup. A forward facing plenum would actually be more piping. The car will be used for drag racing and maybe a little cruising so power is the main goal. Also, if you look at the back of the factory plenum there is a significant amount of runner built into it, that is lost when you go to a bolt on plenum.

  2. This was the email that was forwarded to me. What I had been told was that the housing and backing plate materials were changing.

    Housings being finished off this week and assembly will start again next week. I have about 40 back orders to fill but will advise as we are getting through them. Not long now.

    Regards

    Andrew McIntosh

    Sales Manager

    Nitto Performance Engineering

  3. you'd be better off asking on the pulsar forums rather than the skyline forums. the 200sx bit threw me off for a second there when you started talking about gtir rear end and avenir boxes. over here the 200sx was the australian version of the silvia, which america got as the 240sx (although ours still kept the sr20 rather than the ka24).

    so as i said, try the pulsar forums, as the guys there will have a bit more info on the fwd/awd stuff. or have a look through a few american sites to see if you can find info.

    Appreciate it. None of the US sites have much info on any of the awd setups since they were never sold over here. I've been searching bluebird sites since that's where the fwd guys source most of their engines from with no luck. I'll give the pulsar sites a go and see what I can come up with. Thanks again.

  4. I'm in the planning stages of a new project and I'm having a hard time finding answers. The platform is going to be my tired but trusty little B14 200sx. I've decided to give her a new emerald blue paint job with carbon zg flares, hood, and trunk. For running gear, here's where it get's a little weird, I going to swap in a gtir rear end and avenir auto awd trans. I'm going to do a mild build on the engine with new pistons, rings and bearing to handle a 100 wet shot. I know the auto transmissions are weak but, I can't seem to find out how weak and if there are rebuild kits out to beef them up.

  5. There you go... that's more like it.

    I'm exited to see the results... I havn't seen anyone running a rb24 hard.

    Just watch the combustion pressures... rb24's get a little thin around the bores.

    Where in the US are you? I'm in south Florida at the moment. Unfortunatly I meet alot of rb enthusiasts in the US that "hero" the nissan rb engines a little too much.... too far ricer than racer. If you get where I'm comming from.

    A solid auto is a win win for the 1/4.

    Dont get too far into the ass end changes too soon. It gets to be a slippery slope. Just stick with GTR swap and 0 camber.

    Oh and if you change the nitrous set up, DONT USE NOS it's not much better than zex, have a look at wizard of nos- nitrous gear.... or at absolute minimum nitrous express. With the right wizard or nos controller, you can easily run gas all the way to redline safely.

    Also, have a look at Precision Turbo's, they have some awsome billet comp wheel turbo's comming out with bb garret CHRA's... very well priced.

    Good luck

    Justin

    I'm near St. Louis MO. Completely surround by 4 digit horse power making Mustangs and Camaros, it is the Midwest after all. I'm hoping that the Hardblok will give the cylinders a little more strength than a regular RB24. I had a chance to look at the block the other day and there's about 2" of water jacket left. I'll definitely be running a Precision Turbo. My builder was backed by them for a while so he has a few sitting around. He wants me to run his old 76mm Q trim. I think I need a better computer, oil pump, damper, and cam gears before I do.

  6. Justin,

    Thanks for the input. I'm the first to admit I do things the hard way. I'm also horrible at the internet because I forget people can't see my thoughts. The trans will be temporary. Once I get the car running right and everything broken in I'll start looking at TH400 options. I also will be ditching the stock exhaust manifold for a HKS cast unit I've been sitting on. The head has already been ported and polished but, I'm waiting on valves. My builder wants to see what the heads got in it first and then we'll have a custom set made. As for compression I'll be sending the head off to have the combustion chamber cnc'd. If I enlarge it enough to match the bore while adding 10cc to each chamber it will drop the compression right in line. The Zex kit is set up to come on at 3k rpm and shuts off at 15 psi. If the solenoid ever gives me problems it will be replaced with a NOS unit, the nozzle as well. If I run across a deal maybe sooner. I'm also going to a external oil pump. After looking at the pump on the old Ford 4 cylinder my builder runs next to my N1 pump there's not doubt in my mind why RB pumps fail. Once all that is done and the intake is the only restriction left we will start looking at custom sheet metal options. As for the IRS, I've been thinking of buying a few sub frames and playing with the angle of the control arm mounts in an attempt to resemble the JUN drag member on their 8 sec S14. None of it is going to be easy but, I'm not sure I know how to do easy. Again, thanks for the input.

    Tom

  7. If i ever need to rebuild my engine using the Tomei pistons and RB26 crank, rods etc i have then i may entertain the idea of going to 260/10.25mm cams because guess what...seems nobody wants the solid lifter gear and springs for an RB20/RB25DE/VG30 so they can be had for a steal as well and have them under my couch as well:)

    That's the cam setup I will be switching to after I have the head CNC'd to add 10cc and +1 valves. Either those or the 270/10.25 pro cams.

  8. bubba - that is a lot of play, cant belive that!

    i just wonder whether this clearance is required though for heat expansion...greg, what are your thoughts on this? do you recall how much play my pump has with the customer collar you made for it?

    If heat expansion was an issue wouldn't the timing gear be prone to failure when the engine reached operating temperature?

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