ashr32

hey guys, as above, im sure someone has this sitting around? need it ASAP will pay today. located in melbourne

Hey guys i need a GTR Resistor Pack for my r33 gtr injectors to go in my rb20det getting a tune next satdy so need it fast cheers

Hey guys i need a GTR Resistor Pack for my r33 gtr injectors to go in my rb20det getting a tune next satdy so need it fast cheers

ill offer $120 delivered?

it was me mate. hahaha i saw the posts and went "screw PM im calling" the early bird gets the worm.... thx again im gunna give it a clean and so how it goes.

hey yeah using the stock fan with no stone tray. there (IS) a sensor at the bottom left side of the radiator next to the bottom radiator pipe the radiator is plug and play so all the stock stuff is retained regardless can a temp sensor cause a mis? how can i test? i have consult if that helps? cheers guys SAU - keeping my car on and off the road since 2007!!!

Hey guys, ive done my major service including thermostat and rad hoses. i also put in a Spec M 52mm alloy radiator in prep for track this year but here is the problem. the car is running hotter. ive bleed the air out 10+ times so its not that and the car doesnt overheat its just hotter i have an aftermarket temp gauge which is connected to a greddy alloy top rad pipe and it reads 80 once warm but at the lights it gets upto 90ish which is about 5 degrees hotter than before. ive noticed also that it doesnt cool down as much when im do 100km like it did before. the stock gauge reads as it always does (right in the middle) and when i pluged in consult it shows the temp to be about 10 hotter than the aftermarket gauge. but that means at the lights at idle its really 100 degrees so its gone from running temps of 76ish to 80 to a new radiator that sez its 30% more efficent and upto 100 degrees i know the radiator is good so i was thinking maybe its because the rad is alloy not plastic so the gauge sensors are getting hotter by defualt? secondly i have a bad mis once warm and ive checked everything else, coils, plugs, afm ect. so i thought it could just be the standard temp sensor so i call nissan and they said i have 2. 1 for the gauge and one for the ECU. im guessing the gauge sensor is connected to the bottom of the rad but where is the other and which should i replace if any???. from nissan The sensor for the guage is $59 The sensor for the ECU is $85. any ideas guys? extra info im using the stock shroud. no leaks no problems with the colour of the fluid

Thanks Beer Baron i was hoping to get a response from someone like yourself (one of your previous posts fixed an issue i was having) so not stretched, i was doing the math and it didnt add up. makes sense now. i was more so thinking about good tires for the front for better grip as at the moment with those tires are causing a little understeer when initiating a drift into a corner at high speed. id like to just stick to the same brand cheap tire for the back and buy a few of them at a time so i can remove as many variables as i can. i really want to get some good data from the car with as little track time as possible. so after doing some more searching ive seen the following setups for the rims size i have 17" 225/45 all round 205/35 all round 225/45 all round 225/45 at the front (good brand) and 235/45 at the back (cheap) what do you guys thing?

Sup Boys, Im nearing the completing of my project car and need some advice on wheel and tire choice. the car came with SSR 17"/8" rims and a set of Neuton NT5000 235/45/17s ($120 a tire) cant remember the offset but have a look at the attached pics the see how they fit. As you can see they are stretched on the rim. the plastic inner guard has been removed on the right side already and im about to remove the left side because with the height of my tien coils the rims scrap when i handbrake 180 and hard left turn while on the brakes. im pretty sure its the inner guard that is scraping not the guard itself but this will test it the car will be primary for drift so im trying to find a good setup to get started. i dont mind if i have to flare or roll the guards thanks in advance for the suggestions

see title im located in melbourne. cheers guys

agreed. bypass the core by joining the in and out pipes. its a real stuff around having to pull the dash apart not to mention that after its back together you WILL have squeeks and creaks.

its the sender mate, mine was exactly the same. i did the mechanical test and all is fine, i put an after market (autogauge) pressure unit in the stock location and it reads perfect. good luck

it def sounds like fuel to me mate If you are a FYI kind of guy like me id do the following get a inline fuel pressure gauge $30 or a cheap autogauge one for $50 take it for a drive and see whats happening? also check the earth wire on the pump there is a FYI on fixing that common issue you can do this by using a multimeter and checking the voltage PM me with any updates as id like to know how it goes. GOOD LUCK

hey i can scrap together 1100 for the 2530 if your interested in a quick sale?

Hey Guys, ive had the above items sitting in my shed for the past year and im trying to make some space. i try to sell em on pulsar group of australia but you have to pay to post in the for sale. SAU is the only site im paying to use. anyway im not after much so any offer will be considered item 1: Red rear Spoiler from a n13 pulsar/astra hatchback Year: 1987 - 89 extra info: its the one at the bottom of the rear window Price: $30 ono worth alot more and i actually paid $100 for it a year ago but sold my pulsar condition: its still in the post box it was sent to me in. (its red and rubber, not much can go wrong with it) item 2: Red rear parcel shelf from a n13 pulsar/astra hatchback Year: 1987 - 89 extra info: its the one at connects to the hatch and lifts up when you open it Price: $30 ono paid $60 for it Condtion: no marks, chips or scratches.

thanks for the info. so can a two door use it if it also had the 4 door tail lights?

see title thanks guys

itll level out shortly after 9psi regardless of mods. youll be experencing R&R soon after that anyway

as long a the modified guidelines are followed i think this is a great idea. and in reality this is a good thing of the quality shops out there and they will get more bussiness. also getting a spokes person from the major shops would allow for more in depth reedback and customer service as with every shop i have ever dealt with have no idea of either of these things.

i 100% agree mate. im over it, i only take it to someone when i cant do somthing and everytime i feel like im in the waiting room at the hospital. from now on ill spend the labor money on more tools and do it myself. like you said if o stuff it, its my problem

can you please PM me the name of the shop too. i just got a major service done by...... in melb and it resulted in the accelerator peddle sticking and i nearly killed myself. unbelievable. we need to work together guys cause there are some mechanics out there that honestly dont give a crap and im sic of it.

mate i have the nissan rb20det service manual and its 25 - 30 psi

im pretty sure the manual sez 25psi and 30 psi with the vac line off. with a aftermarket pump installed i got 43psi at idle. what FPR did you get? ive got a nismo FPR on mine and its a bit strange. the screw only changes the max psi not idle so its 43psi and if if i JUST touch the accelerator it goes upto 70psi and sits there for a bit then goes back to 43psi. it doesnt change at all when i remove the vac line either. FPR's a strange but the car works fine

o i didnt see that you had a power FC. i got one going in next tuesday so hope that can fix it but a doubt it. your right you put all this money into the car only to have people stare at you for the wrong reasons.

hi mate, i have the exact same problem and i have tried all of the above with no change. i have also done a FPR and raised it way up to see if there is a change. ive swaped both the cold start valve and the idle valve. its been a year and still no solution. ill watch this thread and add new things i have tried to help solve this problem. let me guess it boosts up real good drives fine but its a dog when its cold and when you drive it like a pussy?