Cubes

The Rb25DEt and rb26dett is easy to register in the R32. Simply ensure the motor is stock running on the stock ecu, quiet exhaust with the GTR/R33 GTST front brakes and its all legal. IF you go RB30 its not legal and very difficult/expensive to make so. However, the rb30's added torque and its ability to spool large gt35r turbo's the same as an rb20det running its stock turbo is aweseome. The 3ltr doesn't use more fuel than the 2ltr UNLESS your constantly stuck up it. Mine achieves ~10.6-11l/100km's driving it 'normal' with the odd little squirt. Drive it hard and 13.5-14l/100km's is easily achieved.

They were 100% origional TY's? Not the rip offs/imitations that were and floating around and stung many?

Excellent.. So you ended up using the 2 x 1.01mm shims?

The owner of a local tuning workshop owns an XR6T. He told me to push over 400rwkw they enlarge the internal gate and drop on a T66 (?) comp wheel with a .7 comp cover leaving the turbine wheel standard. IF they want to go all out I think he said they ?back cut? the turbine wheel.

Paul, The price of the two media types have recently pulled in line with each other. The verbatim 16x discs (which are one of the very best quality disks you can buy) are both ~$39 for a spindle of 50 from Jaycar. Another excellent quality disc is Taiyo Yuden. They are ~$140 for a spindle of 100. argg.. But they are the very best you can buy. But I don't. I used to use cheap $25-$30 disks (have lots of princo and generic grade A's) and have found after 3years or so the dye on the bottom of the disc has started to change colour and develop little pin dots; most of them still work but some disks are now unreadable. Needless to say those that are still fine I've transfered on to Verbatim +R discs. We lost a heap of family photo's. Damn Princo. --- Guy, for those important family video/photo's its really important to use top quality DVD+R discs. Anything else cheapo -R's will do if you don't have intentions of being able to access them in years to come.

The R32 doesn't run a solenoid. It simply has a hose that runs from the compressor cover to the wastegate actuator where the actuator does ALL the boost control. No solenoids nothing.

SirRacer, It would be nice if you could get the rest of the figures. 10.8 doesn't tell us much. We need to know the 60ft and Terminal speed.

Thats not always possible Madaz. When I was young and Silly in my VS Commodore 5speed v8 I ran bendix metal kings. Before I knew how poor the metal kings really were I punched it hard up to around 100km/h then braked hard to ~30km/h, then again up to around 100km/h then hard down to ~30km/h. The brakes still felt perfectly fine. the next corner I went to hit the brakes at around 130km/h and I had literally nothing. Straight back to second for a diff lock, then ripped the handbrake on and slide to a stop almost collecting a guard rail. There was no time to 'try' and stop it, I thought I was going to hit the guard rail, I simply tried to shed off enough speed to minimize the impact. I was just lucky. I then fitted Bendix Ultimates and no more brake fade.

Only if the rod is lighter than the standard item. Which I don't believe 'some' are?? However.. Reducing this mass at the piston end is much more benifitial. Forged pistons weigh less than the cast items. This reduces the weight hanging off the end of the rod, obviously reducing strain. Much like a flywheel... Your better off reducing weight on the outer edge as its more benifitial, reducing weight towards the center is next to useless.

uTorrent. ---- I use VSO's Convert X to DVD. There's many programs available that are able to convert various video files in to dvd with a few simple clicks. It works extremely well and is very easy to use. My other half is the primary user as she dloads kids stuff for the boy. Its a simple drag drop, insert dvd and click to have a avi etc burnt on to a dvd. It works all the time every time without the requirement for *external codecs*. Nero Recode also works well but the other half had a few issues getting her head around it for one reason or another. For the best possible compatibility (older picky DVD readers) I've found you can't go wrong (and haven't yet) with a good brand (Verbatim) DVD+R disk and a DVD Burner that supports DVDROM bitsetting. I use Verbatim 16x DVD+R disks. DVD-R disks can have issues with the older DVD readers. The -R discs are inferior to the +R discs in 'theory'. If you have time, read the whitepapers I'm sure you will agree.

Throw it on a dyno for $30-$60 and give it a quick power run. You'll then know whats going on; much better than replacing this and replacing that when it may very well be fine.

Yes I'm still playing the old BF2 occasionally. I'm not a big games person but when I do its that and a bit of Live For Speed that madaz put me on to.

When I was younger 16-18 we bought an old Galant between 2 other mates (Brenton being one of their names lol). As I live down south we used to head down Willunga and thrash about on the dirt roads and paddocks. We found this awesome big grass patch just off the side of a road next to a vine yard. Perfectly smooth. We (thinking back now it was silly) used to fly along at around 90-100km's rip the hand brake on, the car would od 360's so quick you'd feel dizzy and couldn't see where you were in the spin. As the spin would slow we'd try to get control and then snakey it as long as possible before we either just lost control or clipped one of the permapine posts. Thats how I learnt to control a car. I'd love to do an SAU Driver Training Day. Find out the information for us and see can see how many people are interesting.

ATI actually has very very good driver support. In the old days they had poor support, how things have changed. I wouldn't say Nvidia has 'good' support, far from infact. They take extremely long to fix a serious issue instead wasting time fixing little issues. You also need to look at what games you play. Steam based games are always going to be top notch on ATI cards as they work closely with ATI. Nvidia in the past has had small niggly issues with Steam based games, going off the driver release notes. EA on the other hand work closely with Nvidia and well.. EA being EA they have issues with every and any piece of hardware lol so really its a poor comparison. www.rage3d.com I'm unsure if they still do these days but a while back there was a bloke from ATI known as the 'Catalyst Maker' he would listen and take on board issues with games when they were released and fix's would show up in the next driver release. This is what impressed myself most with their driver 'support' Either way.. I have absolutely no problems with ATI or Nvidia. Their cards work just as well. ATI I have found will fix an issue with a game slightly quicker than Nvidia. BUT I primarily play EA games (BF2 etc) so I am better off with a Nvidia card. HOWEVER!!! ATI have just joined forces with AMD so it will be very interesting to see whats in store for us.

I don't completely hold that view Paul. I now build PC's with Nvidia cards. I used to use ATI as Nvidia were crap long long ago. They were noisy, hot and very power hungry. Not that power hungry really is an issue. Noise is. ATI has nice drivers that have updates every month. Their cards do work well, i've used both nvidia and ati apart from the small performance differences depending on who's the performance leader at the time they are both just as good. Alot like comparing AMD and Intel. They both work just as well, one at any given time is the performance leader. Currently its Intel, prior it was AMD and on the story goes. I've used and overclocked AMD's and Intels back in the 486sx25 and AMD's K5. Prior to that it was AMIGA 500,600 and 1200.

I'm no fanboi when it comes to hardware (apart from motherboards) I go with what offers the best performance and value. I've never had issues with ATI as I've never had issues with Nvidia.

Yes as I've found.. If there not DOA they tend to be fine.

Years ago I RMA'd an ATI PowerColor 9700.

How much boooooooooooooooost are you running? Surging... likely to be fuel as others have stated.

bah linux clunk shiet.. It has its place but not as a home OS. Install MacOSX if your tired of WinXP.

TIG... Lucky you. I'll be using a MIG! If I fail I'll tack it all up and get some one to weld it. Still much cheaper than having some one do a full exhaust. I've been quoted 2k for what I want to do. :S

Great to hear Sammie. Did you settle on the garrett .82 iw or the .63 iw? With decent fuel you can squeeze it over 300rwkw. ----------- ITS ME AGAIN!!!!!!!! lol So you've seen sense and decided to use the propper garrett compressor and turbine housing instead of having your std rb25 turbo covers molested? It really is bugger all having a new intake and dump pipe made up. It really is worth the extra effort and $$ if your chasing more than 250rwkw. I'm in the process of practicing my welding skills or lack of so I am able to make my own dump pipe. I've deiced on running a 12.5degree cone for 56mm (3" to 3.5") off the back of the turbo then have a full 3.5" run to the cat. Off the 3.5" cat I'll ahve the system split in to a 2 x 2.5" system. 2 mufflers, smallish center and a large rear to keep the noise down but flow up. It would be nice to run a 4" dump that splits off in to a twin system but I rally think its just not possible with a 2" wastegate pipe.

Shaun uses the standard stock off the old pump. Cleans it up and pushes it on to the end of the pump. Measures to to ensure it sits in the cradle exactly the same as the stock pump did and done.

I spotted a Maroon R32 GTR down south towing a trailer.

The BCPR6E plugs that are also suitable for the R33 can be had a Motor Traders / Coventry's for $2.85 per plug. I've ran the BKR7E plugs in my R32 and found them to be a touch too cold for a daily driver. I tried everything, leaned the water temp correction right out but found the plugs to live a short life, they did ~15,000km's fine before crapping out. I've since shoved the BCPR6E plugs back in and they look much healthier upon inspection at 10k. The 6's usually last 30-40k. 40k they really look worn but still work fine.