Cubes

Thanks Simon. If its all in and kicking by ~5000rpm I'd expect it to be all in around 3000rpm maybe a touch over on the rb30. Thanks.

A mates R33 had the same issue some years ago. He had boost pushed up to 14psi and on the dyno it was fuel cutting. i.e simply cutting all power as in nothing, zilch acceleration. The same as the R32 GTST's do at around 16-17psi. Well mine used to.

Such a pitty he hasn't hosed a wav file of it in action. Would be a very interesting note.

Ahh yes I have seen that sensor.. Assumptions are bad.

Looks good. Nice pics. Appears to be rather easy to shoe horn a std rb afm plug in to a z32 afm.

Chris, If you have both the A/C and Rad/Blower Fan relay on your fuse/relay box then you will be able to perform this mod. Have a read up on automotive relays, from what I've read automotive relays are usually negative switching. It really is easy, have a play with a multimeter for a while, you can't short or blow anything up testing with a multimeter so fear not.

Power goal... 270rwkw minimum. The motors built for it, it has head work etc so all the little bits help. I plan to push 20-24psi if I run the gt30 or just 18-19 if I run the slide. But realistically I may end up having to wind the boost down a little with the gt30 as it may be a little too much for rwd. The gt30r .82 will be all in by the low 3000's with good boost made by 2600. I'd hope the slide would be in earlier which is why I wanted to know what you meant by too big. Weighing up the options. If the slide turbo is all in sub 3000's then 270rwkw + the slide will be a really good street setup. If not I'll put up with the slight extra lag from the gt30 and be happier with a bit more top end power. Its all an unknown.. :S

When you say its too large where did you start seeing boost and where did it kick you in the back so to speak? I'm trying to work out approx spool rates for the VG30 max oversize. Then I'll decide if its worth spending the extra 1k on a gt30 int gate. The time it takes to highflow the turbo will also determine if I go the slide or not. If the cars going to be off the road for 3 weeks then I'll simply throw on a gt30 int gate. Unless Slide can sort out an exchange type setup, he sends I receive then I send my old one.

http://www.transport.tas.gov.au/registrati.../type-reg5.html Bugger. SA has stuff all information available. Well Not easily and quickly obtained.

GT3037 Still run upwards of 300rwkw with good fuel, exhaust, sorted comp ratio and tuning.

I've considered having a towbar fitted for years. The cheapest I've been quoted is $350 for a custom made one. My requirement? The odd tow, maybe car trailer, maybe bike rack. My little 32 has towed a few cars, pulled tree stumps down at the block lol.. rb30 powa.

All done. I ended up using a little wire to position the diode away from the loom so to speak. There's just not enough room in there. A flux pen gives very very tidy solders as it literally sucks the solder off the iron and evenly spreads it. I have solder with a flux core but there's just nothing like having flux on the item that you are going to solder. I first covered the joins etc with liquid elec tape. Why? Because I had some laying around, liquid elec tape tends to go soft with heat. So its not that crash hot but does keep water out. And now all taped up. You can only just see a little bit of the white wire under the relays. Stoked I didn't have to bugger arse running another relay and chopping in to wires that really wasn't required. Remember your all smart individuals, its up to yourself to perform your own research and decide IF you should attempt this mod. I'm not going to be responsible for you breaking something.

Correct.. I'll throw a few more pics up soon.

Thesis... Would have been quite a fun project to work on. Now bolt it in to a gocart and hope a rod doesn't spit out the side of the block and straight through the base of your skull. :S

lol.. Thanks. Some of the pintle.

Oosh, You might want to perform this little 25c mod if your getting your A/C sorted. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=153378

Hey ppls, The R32's (unsure about R33 or R34's) have an engine overheat fan positioned on the aircons condensor. The engine over heat fan ONLY turns on when the water temperature reaches ~92-94degree's. The temp sender switch is located in the bottom tank driver side of the radiator. This overheat fan does NOT turn on when you hit the A/C button. Having the engine overheat fan turn on with the A/C allows air to pass over your aircon condensor when stationary, this improves the aircons efficiency/coolness and reduces engine temps (at the very least slows the increase in temp when sitting in traffic). This is especially critical if you have had your aircon converted to the R134a gas. The R134a gas is not as efficient as the old R12; it runs a much higher head pressure, places a greater load on your compressor and places a greater heat load on your condensor. Forcing your overheat fan on with R134A when the a/c is in operation WILL improve your aircon's coolness during long periods of idle or very slow speeds. Most Aussy released cars automatically have the 'engine overheat' fan enable when you hit the a/c button. Its required for our hot climate during heavy traffic. Having my aircon recently serviced I decided to do something about having the engine overheat fan turn on when I hit the A/C button. I remembered the A/C and Engine Fan relays were situated next to each other in the fuse/relay box under the bonnet. See below pic. I grabbed the multimeter and found the trigger on both relays which happens to be the far left wire on both relays. Do note the wiring is negative switching; the relay see's a constant battery voltage, only when the relay is earthed does it activate. Please do check yours to ensure you have the right trigger wires. Mine were: A/C - Green wire Yellow stripe Overheat Fan - Green wire Black stripe See below pic. I bridged the wires and presto... The engine fan turns on with the a/c. BUT the problem here is the a/c now also turns on with the engine over heat fan when the engine overheats (~92-94degree's). See below pic. The solution to having the a/c turn on when the engine overheats is to use a SINGLE DIODE! As the relays activate when earthed place the diode appropriately. See below pic. So its as simple as that. Head down to Jaycar, grab a meaty diode (~0.25c) and splice it in to the trigger wires. Be bugged wiring in another relay; this is a cheap very tidy solution.

I'd like a set of Black for an R32.. R34 <-> R32 sprayers are the same thing?

Is he sure there's no ball bearing? Some times they stick inside due to the oil and crap and only the spring falls out. If there was no ball bearing in there it would be quite the opposite, only a slight increase in boost and thats it. Boost would not hit rediculous levels.

If you think jap cars are bad rip apart a VS Commodore dash. :S They are never the same afterwards, no matter what I did it would squeek rattle and that was when it was only 3yrs old. :S The jap cars are quite good. Just be carefull not to break anything.

I used a bloke down at Lonsdale. Coolway Air. O'sulivans beach road.

I doubt you will get anywhere near the $190AUD that the cashback offers. When you grab the new injectors take lots of photo's with your camera in macro mode in direct sunlight. Nice clear focused close ups.

QRI05E, are you sending your old injectors back for a cash back? $25 USD each injector thats $190 AUD for a set of 6 you get back. You pay $519 AUD for a set of 555cc sidefeeds minus the 190aud cash back and thats $329 aud for a set of injectors.. Pretty darn cheap.

kastin, A plenum and its runners aid in tuning a motors power band. Short runners are known for high rpm, long runners low/mid range torque.

My problem is I have just paid to have the a/c serviced. To remove the evaporator I'm going to have to have it degassed and then regassed. is that correct? Or is there another way around it.