Cubes

RPMGTR, Regardless of power being made.... What your findings are is the RB30DET regardless of the power it makes requires a 3.5-4" exhaust and aftermarket exh. manifold if you don't want power to nose over at 5500rpm? Its a pity I don't have the dyno sheets but there are a couple of RB30DET's running the VCT head, std exh. manifold 3" exhaust that even though they are only making 180rwkw-220rwkw with std and highflow turbo's they STILL nose over at 5500rpm. Those that run with a plenum regardless of the power they are making don't nose over early. On the dyno I run on. :S

A/C evap doesn't need to come out. Just need to get to the heater core. Fingers crossed I can remove the heater core without having to remove the a/c evaporator.

RPMGTR, What are your experiences with the R32 RB25DE Non-VCT head (as the above dyno sheets were of)

Mr. Squiggle. Lol Guilt-Toy.. Top stuff.

Some may find this interesting... Straight from the service manual.

Bl4ck32 and I had ours built up in 3weeks, upon picking it up it was as simple as grabbing the forklift and throwing it in the the trailer. It had been strapped down to a wooden crate then wrapped in gladwrap. Very impressed. In that time they waited 1 week for us to supply a clutch for the balancing. There were however extremely organized. Things happened when they said they would and the quote didn't go 1 dollar over, I was very impressed with the organization of the place. Most likely a rarity, but none the less a motor should not take 6 months even if it were a low priority build up. The problem is now my standards are high, I would expect nothing less of the next build up.

Apart from Merc's being expensive, nothing. I have no idea how Merc's are reliability wise, I know the BMW's are not the best.

Best bet is to give regency a buzz. You may get away with fitting up the brakes from an R32 and a quick regency inspection. It will have to be stock as a rock when it goes through though.

Nope.. Not a smoker, don't know any one who is actually.

When the engine overheats (high water temps) it cuts the a/c. High engine temps = no a/c. Sensors usually go the other way though.

Cars been good. Owned it for 5yrs, clocked up ~160,000km's of my own and now its starting to show its age. The clock states its done 230,000km's. Just bought myself a press and bushes for the front and rear I will be doing them once I get this aircon sensor and track down heater core for a reasonable price. The highpressure aircon hose recently went after a conversion to 134a (134a runs double the pressure of the old R12 gas). The top radiator tank let go in the early days, Natrad in the city replaced that for $90. Clutch master and slave cylinder went, they were $75 and $30 each bran new. All Clutch and Brake at St. mary's does them so look in the SA sections workshop sticky. Nothing else really.. Its been a great reliable car. Only replaced motor as I got tired of the rb20 and had been building up the 3ltr for a couple of years prior so ripped it out sold it and dropped the 3ltr in.

I'm down southish.

FMIC is a front mount intercooler. Standard they have a tinny little intercooler in the left hand side of the front bumper. They are too small to run decent boost through as they are unable to remove the heat from the air. ~$400 odd. You can pick up an RB25DET turbo here on SAU for ~$400 odd. Airfilter.. its not really a concern. Your probably looking at 2-3k by the time you get the exhaust, fmic, turbo, ecu and tuning sorted. Adds up quick. Consider for another $400 on top of the rb25 turbo you can grab a slide highflow that will make more power.

It would if its reading too high. I believe thats the usual water temp sensor the ecu see's Its at the front of the motor where the top rad hose connects.

Yer.. Because I've got a stroker RB30 it needs 6 wastegates hanging off each cylinder. lmao.

Yes, it would be so much nice if the operators weren't so lazy and had the graphs showing in RPM instead of speed.

Archie, On the dyno I run on an R32 GTST with an FMIC, full exhaust, std turbo, 1bar of boost (with NO boost drop which requires a good dump and exhaust + a good ebc) and tuned ecu gets around 170-175rwkw. The stock rb20det turbo's tend to drop boost a touch at these power levels, if you can't get it holding boost with your dump pipe/exhaust + ebc combination then you'll be looking at 165-170rwkw. So not a lot of difference, you still have the meaty mid range which is what matters most. Bolt an RB25det turbo on, tune it up and you'll net around 190-195rwkw on the same boost. Gives you a rough indication of what to expect.

Unless the dyno operator has calibrated the dyno's indicated speed for the vehicle the speed shown will be out. Which is evident with the dyno sheets I posted above.

Mine doesn't always show up the Intake temp sensor in the sensor check. The only way to be sure is for myself to flick to the sensor display and check them.. Often than not when its -20 it doesn't show as faulty but it sure isn't -20degree's so its faulty and causes the a/c not to operate. Did you replace the Intake temp sensor? I can't appear to find the sucker.

Nice so it appears the plazman does the job nicely.. As it retains the runners it could possibly improve the low/mid range? At what rpm was 183km/h?

Sharing components is smart. lol I noticed my old mans new Navara uses the EXACT same door latch bits that my R32 uses!!!! lol Mine are starting to look a little long in the tooth 15yrs odd later.

You say you've had sensors replaced. I have recently had the exact same issue and it turned out my Intake air temp sensor is constantly reading -30degree's (occasionally comes up to 8degree's or so). This stops the a/c compressor cutting in. Have you entered the climate control diag mode and had a look at the intake temp sensor reading?

Bugger.. Its definitely a dash out job as it 'looks' like i'll have to pull the aircon box out from the top?? I was hoping I could get away with it. Ahh well I have a few dash globes to replace (clock etc). I've put it back together for now until a week when I have more time to get stuck in to it. There's a couple of warmish days from now until then so I cleaned the a/c evaporator as best as I could. It extremely caked full of of a dense dust. Its amazing how much better the fan blows and how much more icy the a/c now is given now that the vents now blow my head off when on full. I cleared away a couple of rows so one can see what it is supposed to look like.

Sorry I thought I had posted that dyno sheet in this thread.. There's currently a similiar discussion over in the rb30det thread. All that was changed was the plenum and injectors. Boost was left the same, ignition was left the same and afr's were obviously set back to 12:1 due to the larger injectors. Time wasn't wasted tweaking to see how much ign could be used to bring up the mid and peak power. Do note the plenum used was a short runner/gtr style large plenum. Its not one that utilizes the std runners. I haven't seen one such as the plazman be used on a 30det (how retaining the std runners and only changing to a larger plenum affects power). EDIT: come to think of it I 'think' I remember seeing a VL RB30DET with a plazman plenum on it that retains the std runners at Boostworx. I will have to check and see how that went.

Paul, its not the power that is the problem. They still make the same power with the stock plenum but its what I call peaky power. But regardless MR2's RB30DET GTS4 didn't have a lot of things changed. Just Plenum and injectors, thats it. At 180rwkw or 300rwkw the RB30DET's with the stock plenum peak at the same RPM. There's multiple examples of this in Boostworx's dyno pc. But its not just myself who has made the conclusion. I don't tune or setup each car. Boost worx does. Boostworx came to the conclusion well before myself.