Cubes

I had my front left go 5yrs ago soon after I bought the car. Including labour it set me back $250 to replace. Pull the bearing out and see if CBC can match something up. 9 times out of 10 they can.

chook.. Check out the R34 GT N/A variants and see what half shafts they run. You 'may' be in luck. If not you will be selling the diff. I looked in to dropping an S15 centre in to my R32 and found a set of compatible axles (don't remember exactly what they were off) BUT I opted against as the S15 rears are weak and tend to let go at around 200rwkw, god help it behind the rb30det. Torque breaks things. :S

I used to run the old HPR15 in my first car. TE Cortina 250 4 on the floor. The burnout machine.

Djetro.

Apart from the AFM and lack of features what exactly makes the powerFC 'shit'? The PowerFC is a damn good no frills ecu for its price range. It has knock detection, sequential injection, handles large injectors very well, returns good fuel economy and drivability/cold starts etc are exceptional. If you want something more... The Wolf3d v5 looks very nice. Microtech.. lmfao.

someonestolecc, DONT DO IT!! Spend the $400 or so on an Rb25 turbo. MUCH MUCH better. The VG30DET turbo in the picture is nothing more than an R32 RB20DET turbo with the slightly larger compressor cover and R34 OP6 turbine housing. The turbo is designed to create a nice wide power band on a 3ltr. On a smaller motor it spools slowly *feels lazy* and when it does hit she really doesn't come on hard, it feels like a big linear boaring power curve with bugger all mid range. In other words its not really a fun turbo. On the 3ltr its 'ok' but nothing spectacular. The VLT stock turbo is 'feels' better and makes more power easier in my opinion. I've currently got a VG30DET turbo on my rb30det, its ok but made stuff all power over the stock rb20det turbo, all its boost is in by ~2200rpm and it makes its peak power around 5000rpm and continues to pull well until 5800rpm. Grab an R33 turbo or cheap slide highflow for a few hundred more, suits an rb30sohc's lac of revs better.

Could be the guage or cam timing.

Yep I have been eyeing off the Bridgestone behind centerlink at Marion. They keep semi's in stock so no doubt they are in to the performance side of things a little more than some others.

506rwhp is 377rwkw. The hp makes it sound a lot. Correctly setup I'm sure an rb25det could hold the power for some time. At that power level all it takes is a little bad fuel or slightly off tune for the conditions and its rebuilt time.

Not sure why there would be jealousy... I can see why there can be doubts though.

I'm about to do a set of front end and rear bushes in my 32. AVS has shut there doors. Has any one got any recommendations for some others that don't opt for the attitude 'close enough is good enough'? I've previously delt with Bridgestone Tyre Center at Noarlunga and they were top notch, BUT... its a little out my way to drive such a distance without having any sort of alignment at all.

I had better pull mine back off and have a better look as I swear mine had no spline just a simple half moon dowl. I have seen a rb20t exhaust cam that had the dowl sheered off, there was nothing more than a little stub, no spline as such on the exh. cam at all. But again maybe I didn't look hard enough. :S

The RB20's don't have splines, they run a simple half moon engagement. If this breaks then there is simply no drive to the cas.

lmao. MR331307, Sorry to burst your bubble but the highest power out of a std motor WITH STD INJECTORS hehe is 533rwhp on Pump fuel. Yes it went pop eventually.

irrespective a VL is what it is. RB POWA! Darren, Good to see. Is one of those the bloke you were talking about at the dyno day? Basically the same setup as yours but DOHC?

My bet is the engine builder stuffed up and dropped rb30et pistons in it. A friend had a comp ratio of ~120psi and that was running an R33 vct head on an RB30ET bottom end.

If I were in your position I would do what I suggested (turbo wise) in your other thread I don't like unnecessary lag which the GT3040 (=GT3082r) would have. The hot side isn't able to flow what the compressor side is able to provide. So you loose response and spool for nothing. You have to match the comp to the hotside. A GT30r with a .63 hot side I would go with the 52t GT37 comp wheel. Discopotato has been having discussions with GCG and GCG are apparently getting some of these well matched turbo's in. Discopotato03 has a thread in the FI section. Do a search and have a read.

They must of knocked it during the install. Providing they are treated correctly (afr's good, no detonation, warmed up correctly and not over boosted *12psi for r33, 14psi for r32) these turbo's can last upwards of 300,000km's.

I've got the turbulent years dvd and also the 1990-1992 vcd's of bathurst. So so much better to watch, during the race as dicky drives the commentators are holding a discussion with him. Simply awesome. Much more entertaining.

Fingers crossed its not a lemon.

hrmmm do be carefull with this person who's willing to do a favour for you. I'm unsure exactly what you mean by GT3040. When you say GT3040 to myself and many others that means the GT3082r. 82r being the 52trim 82mm GT40 comp wheel paired with the GT30 60mm turbine wheel. If this is the case its a poor match. You really are better off with the GT3076r 56t 6 blade 600hp turbo. This is the 'true' GT30r and will make ~300rwkw if not a touch more on good fuel and retain good response. Its very similiar (apart from comp and turbine housing variations) as the HKS3037S. In twin form they have made 700rwkw on a jap GTR and a friends R33 GTST (stock bottom end, thick head gasket) 323rwkw. IF you want to run around with the .63 turbine a/r your best bet would to step down the compressor to the 52t gt37 variant. Dropping a large compressor wheel on a restrictive hot side is silly as you won't make a great deal more peak power (if any) but response and spool will suffer. The car will be laggy/peaky for the given power it is making. Definitely not good for a street car. With that turbo your also going to need: PowerFC - $1100 Injectors - $800 Fuel Pump - $300 FMIC - $400 Thicker headgasket - $200 Tuning - $300 + labour if your not mechanically minded and unable to do the work yourself. The thicker headgasket is recommended, you 'can' get away with the 9:1 comp with lots of boost BUT it really is on a knive edge, give it a little safety and drop the comp ratio slightly if you want to push 300rwkw on stock pistons/comp ratio. OTHERWISE you will be up for a motor rebuild in no time.

lol....

No, thats not a killer.... yo mama is a killer in the sac. And she was only $50.

Take note of fuel consumption if you can. Yes they are a performance car but if it sucks another 100km's less per tank when cruising around for another 10-15rwkw when stuck up it the we know its not really worth it.

lol... Party EA's (BF2) doing. 500-600mb PATCHES!!! lol.