Cubes

I'm sure if ppls wanted express post they would have requested it anyway.

$250 does sound attractive... I can't be bothered witht he hassle of pulling my hair out and throwing hammers across the room because they won't come out.

Yer my better word was a poor choice.. What I mean was better suited to the 2.5" pipe work.. but would it really make a difference, probably not. Sk has done the testing and if its fine to 300rwkw its fine to 300rwkw. All though I think AM-Performance is going to try and push over that. Bring on the water/meth injection.

The use of pineapples will only be usefull for angling the cradle to aid traction and create a little more squat. Obviously for this to work correctly the rear camber needs to be spot on.

I've been quoted $250 to fit. But the bloke has done them before so there's no stuffing around.

Just looking at the dyno graph... Your turbo appears to spool slightly later than I've seen other r33's.... ~3200rpm for 12psi.. On the dyno I run on, loaded up in fourth they generally hit 12psi ~2700rpm. Is there an OP6 stamped on the turbine housing by any chance? This could explain why its making decent power as the R34 turbo's generally make up to ~10rwkw more than the r33 turbo's.

I WANT ONE! Disclaimer: Providing they are priced well I've been eyeing these suckers off for quite some time. Obviously to suit an RB.

Mine didn't show any signs of stripping teeth either.. Mine had an input shaft bearing noise from day one, it had only slightly got louder + it wasn't a bearing that failed anyway. Its not the gear changes that break the box its the pure torque, simply loading it up in third gear as you wind it out of a corner. Mine broke at partial throttle, wasn't even at wot. I posted up pics of the teeth that fell out of the drain plug on my old box, a few ppls in the know stated it failed due to fatigue. Essentially the teeth reach their loading point then start bending slightly every time you give it stick, this slight bending slowly weakens them, similiar to bending a coat hanger to break it. Then one day... Bang. No more box clunk clunk. There is no sign that the box will go when it fails in such a way. More power and you will need a gearbox.. I say sell yours while its still good so you get some kind of return on it to make up for the more expensive rb25 box, at least it won't hit your pocket as hard that way.

The std throttle body tapers down to the smaller butterfly valve. So... The XF or even larger Q45 will always be better. Measure the butterfly valve.

My only guess would be due to reduce turbulence caused by the butterfly valve. The valve in its self provides a restriction so a slightly larger dia than the pipe used would be required to match airflow.

The starter motor is on the drivers side. Pic attached.

I remember they could be picked up in either 65 or 68mm. The 68mm's are super rare.

Yer I fried the pfc. But got it fixed.

ISL33P, Are there any negatives noticed with the larger t/b on the rb?

I'd head up there, I would have to take it a little easy (not running nice exxy brake pads) but would most definitely still hit the track. I would like to get subframe bushes and 3.9 diff installed prior.. If not its no biggy, just lay big single spinners as I leave corners.

Whats your IC piping? The XF T/B is 65mm so 2.5", I can't see any real gains by having a t/b thats dia is larger than that of your ic piping. The Q45 t/b is 90mm I believe.. So pretty damn big, wasted if your running 2.5" piping.. But I may be wrong, I'm only speculating and I've wrong many times before.

Still an rb20det box as mr_rbman.... Priorities + at the time I couldn't find one for a reasonable price, they were all $1.7-2k, hell even tracking down an rb20det box most wanted up around $800 I had to have the car back on the road quickly; heheh there's always next time, and I'm sure there will be.

With the ecu not plugged in mine still cranks... If that at all is any help.

Here's a few pics I had laying around in the bottom of my toolbox that were pulled out after the motor had been detonating a little.. They are a BCPR6E NGK plug. I will clean them up with carby cleaner to see if I can tell if they were the correct heat range for the application. (by looking at the strap) Apparently you can tell if a motors been detonating by looking at the center ceramic and looking for what looks like pepper. U know that ground black pepper, very small granuals. AND... I can't see it by the eye but in one pic you will see a shinny silver dot on one of the pictures, this is apparently a little bit of alloy from the piston and what not that sweats during detonation. I tried to clean the center pics strap a little to see if I could see the heat marking. Apparently the colour should differ preferably before the elbow, if its well before or not at all then the plug is too cold, if its close to the weld then the plug is too hot. Excessive black crap around the thread lip is a sign light load afr's are too rich. At wot it apparently doesn't have time to settle. I Think..... Which is the reason for this thread. To learn.

Thanks for the pics.. Its really hard to check out the sparky's at such a distance.. Looks as if you've been running some kind of octane boost or fuel additive though. What would be really nice is to throw your camera in macro mode (every digital camera has this function now) and take a nice close picture of the electrode/strap etc..

Its just a matter of when the std box goes not when. Mine appeared a tad noisy then one day it just went bang, clunk clunk clunk.

You can do the same with an R33 or R34 turbo but with much more area under the curve and possibly a touch more power. Peak power isn't everything, the area under the curve is. Post your dyno i'm keen to check it out.

Yer I agree.. There's no proof it is a problem but its proof of poor quality. I think.. lol. Be it if the filter media is like that from manufacture or caused by oil pressure either way it points to poor quality.

Hi ppls, If any one has recently done a set of sparkys and still has them laying around would you be so kind as to throw your digi camera in to macro mode and take a few snaps at various angles of the sparky, be sure to let me know what heat range they are, power your making and wot afr. Thanks ppls

Have you had the motor out and rebuilt at any time? May just be a bad earth.