Cubes

I'm easy.. Either way. I'll trust Nightcrawlers judgement.

I really don't see the turbo's as being in the same category. Ones considerably cheaper than the other due to the bearing system used. Maybe GCG do a bush highflow for a similiar price (1-1.1k) then it would be worth the comparison. Its not like these bush highflows are new, they have been around for a long time and always been around the 1k mark and EVERY turbo shop does them. Its just that slide has broke the 1k barrier and offering a very competitive price compared to other bush highflows. Due to the nature of BB it offers slightly better spool and response but as with everything at a cost. Its up to you.... I'm still waiting for garrett to release their internal gate gt30 and gt35 turbine housing range. Thats the way I'm going and in no rush.

Look for arc's on the coils?

The VL item fits but if you grab an aftermarket item from the local auto store it will *chances are* have the long warm ups I experienced. You need a genuine thermostat for a quick warm up. I requested an R32 RB20DET thermostat. It might be worth checking if the part numbers are the same. (r33). All the thermostats are interchangable. Getting the car up to temp asap saves fuel.

I know of one person who has blew a hole in one of the above cheapo manifolds at a track day.

I checked out the Nissan stuff, I was actually suprised how well priced it was. Very similiar to that of good aftermarket gear. I'm currently running the Nulon green. I did a little research in to what is required in a good coolant and it had good levels of the good stuff. The nulon green stuff is definitely a good bang for buck coolant.

Second that. Also second that. If its an R32 don't forget that bleed nipple located on the top hose running to/from the heater core. Dropping ALL coolant often causes an airlock in the heater that runs around the system causing the symptoms you are describing. The bleed nipple on the plenum is not sufficient to bleed air from this location. If its a GTR.. Not 100% sure on their setup if they do indeed also run the bleed nipple (t piece) on the top heater core hose. On the GTST Its located directly behind the inlet cam rocker cover, hidden away, not easy to see.

Hi ppls, I'm after a set of new genuine coils, I remember seeing a link of who sold them. I am fairly certian a member of this board also purchased a set of new genuine coils for a reasonable price. reasonable... roughly the same as new splitfires. Why I don't want splitfires... Its not the threads topic.

I second that. I've recently known a few ppls who have ran in their motor. None have had issues that you speak of. If a turbo happens to go at the same time, its a coincidence.

If your running 6's yes.. they will be fine.

I fourth the secondy.

Not that it has anything to do with the nissan skyline box's as they are not designed to run atf fluid.

Famous are pretty much the cheapest I was able to find with regards to premium and they also offered monthly payments. There excess was not as silly as justcars. I went with another insurance company that had a tad more expensive premium but had a 'normal' few hundred dollar excess. http://www.famousinsurance.com.au/

Stock use 5's.. Up to 200rwkw ish 6's then over 200rwkw 7's then as you approach 280rwkw 8's.

2530, don't waste the money on a manifold. The stock item is well up to the task for that power level.

I bought a VS 5ltr 5speed many years ago when they were around 3years old, it had a shifting problem when cold (that I noticed upon test driving) and on higher than normal rpm gear changes (that I also noticed on test driving) they said no problems they will sort it out. They being... 'au....... motors" Upon purchasing the car I noticed the notchy, slight crunch and slip out of 5th gear was still there so I took the car back for warranty. I got the car back and it was fixed. No more crunch and no more slip out of 5th. Later down the track it started slipping out of 5th, I discovered it was a factory recall and apparently a hub problem, they simply thew a stiffer spring in it. they put me off until it was out of warranty saying it was ok then once out of warranty didn't want a bar of me. Interestingly the gearbox died just out of warranty (syncro's were shot and bearings stuffed) and upon dropping the gearbox oil it was discovered atf fluid was thrown in it. Bastards.. 'The great great guys they were indeed' The extended warranty I purchased with the car was not 100% honored as they stated the failure was caused by the use of atf fluid. So I had to shell out for half of the repair.

lol no.

Oh well.. lesson learnt. How do u plan to fix it? Looks like a complete guard shop and reweld? Have it panel beated and bogged it will never look the same, these guards have some funky angles that are very difficult to get looking normal again.

I mentioned this earlier.. I've had a play with both genuine thermostates and different brand aftermarkets (auto shop aftermarket cheap crap). The genuine thermostates open much less and take longer to do so. On the car it is up to operating temp within 2km's from a stone cold start and no idle warm up. coolant temperature stays nice and constant with very little fluctuations. The aftermarkets (both brands I tried) opened up much quicker and a greater amount. On the car it took forever to warm up. It ran cooler even though its little stamp of 76.5degree's was the same as the genuine thermostat. I didn't get a chance to test the aftermarket thermostat in summer as I didn't leave it in there long enough as the long warm ups gave me the poos. My sisters VL.... It had a small overheating issue when climbing willunga hill (some of you SA blokes may know this hill, big arsed and long) I replaced the radiator with a new 3 core and a new aftermarket thermostat. I noticed the temp ran nice and cool in general cruising conditions but giving it a boot full or hitting willunga hill I saw fluctuations in temperature and it took forever to warm up. I decided to throw in my old genuine nissan thermostat. It warmed up much quicker and ran a little warmer, but the most interesting part was engine temps stayed consistent. And the best part... No more overheating heading up willunga hill. My only conclusion was that the aftermarket thermostats open a little too much causing the water flow to be too great through the radiator possibly causing it not to transfer heat OR the large thermostat open some how prevents flow due to lack of vacuum or soemthing who knows.. The car now doesn't overheat in summer when cruising around the streets witht he a/c on where as with the aftermarket temps would creep over half way. Now they always stay under half.

I know what happened... A pole or something was flicked up and smacked in to the side of the car.

Thanks.

Dan, Unsure about the r34's vct but the R33 turbo vct flicks over at a lower rpm compared to the non turbo. I'd assume this is due to airflow differences, the turbo obviously pushing a lot more air through the motor will benifit from the switch over point being lower than n/a (which it is). This 'may' give the feeling of an urgency in the top end as torque fades off a tad then vct flicks over and picks up again giving the urgency feel. Speculation but it kind of makes sense....

Any quick tips on how I should do this as there's the amount and decay value. I simply pulled out a little decay, made no difference to feel. :S

There's a nasty little clause in EVERY insurance policy... It must be street legal, or something along those lines. Sure you may tell them about your mods and they will say yea no problems... but when push comes to shove if its not street legal and you haven't had it engineered (emissions tested, and all that crap) they can refuse to pay out.

yes the pfc does tend to run quite rich throttle enrichment, unsure on the stock ecu. But as you say if you pull nearly half then there must be a little head room where it just happens to work ok with the rb30det. Care to share what values you found to be near optimal with the pfc? Off the base pfc values mines running a tad less than std. But I still think it may be a tad rich, haven't really had much of a fiddle with accel enrichment as of yet.