Cubes

Why would you bother, its a lot of effort. If you want cubes throw an rb30 block under the head.

This is adelaide the country town.. Apart from a few youngans cruising Anzac high way in their Buik v6 commodores its pretty much all your going to get. Summer there is a lot more cars around BUT there's also a tonne of police out.

As mentioned earlier grab the 300v and change oil at 10,000km's

Who knows. I emailed Motul some time back and they replied it is a 100% PAO oil with the E-Tech being a PAO/Ester (Group IV/V) blend. I believe PAO can only be GRP IV? Why manufactures don't list exactly what the oil is on their web site is beyond me. The only mob that do is Mobil.

Yer either way the off boost power reading is basically the same so nothing to worry about.. Thought I'd ask anyway incase you had some interesting info to share on the correction values. But yes very nice... Now settle it in for a while then ....... 22 maybe squeeze 24psi in to her.

The local turbo dude down here in Adelaide said he's checked a few out and they appear to be a .7 something. He also mentioned there's no listing of them anywhere so unless he cuts one up its difficult to get an exact measurement. But he was certian they are a .7 something. The R34 turbine housing is the same as the late model VG30 turbine housing.

There's not much info out there on the stdish range of Fuchs. I looked at it and really tried to dig up some voa's and uoa's with little success. There silkolene range however is a very nice oil but isn't available anywhere in Adelaide that I know of.

Could be a few things... I would measure manifold pressure before throwing cams etc at it. Its not only the a/r but also the turbine wheel size that determines exhaust flow ability. An example of this is the GT30r 1.06 and GT35r .82, the turbine maps both flow roughly the same. Also.. regarding the power run.... Can I ask why the difference in correction between the two runs. 1.13 vs 2.71. None the less power is roughly the same down low so the different correction values clearly make bugger all difference.

The 8100 is a full pao based oil. It is a 100% synthetic as are mobil 1 etc. The next step up is a ester based synthetic oil.

lol.

No 0w30, only 0w40. This is our poor range. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/multiplepro...ntentId=6008545 Castrol being a GRPIII oil would this not put it on par with the turbolight?

If your running the stock ecu throw it in diag mode o2 sensor check, then drive it and ensure it meets the high/flow frequency as stated in the engine manual. Check for vacuum leaks.

I was under the impression the castrol 5w30 and 10w60 is actually a GRP III oil? And here's an interesting little bit of history.. http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

Post it in the SA section

Yer WD's are fine its just they don't like high temps... Be sure the computer is located good refrigerated aircon. With regards to first hard drives... Mine was a 20mb SCSI Amiga 500 thing.

Yer I've had quite a few die, funny thing is its been over a number of years, right back to the old WD 20gb BB drive. They are marginally quicker but the reliability and pain in the arse when it does go down isn't worth it. How did your friends wd's die? Mine and family/friends wd drives lock the computer and go in to a loud retry spinup/down clicking/clunking type sound. RE Overclocking: I don't like overclocking vid cards, the speed increase is not as high as overclocking the system and the chances of something buggering up is 10 fold. To be safe, stick to the system only.

Its all about maintaince, I'd also have to say (in my case) it doesn't have so much to do with tuning as on the base pfc maps with z32 and gtr injectors & the 3ltr I was pushing 440km's per tank. The only time i've dropped to such fuel economy levels is when my injectors were shagged, the o2 sensor was still ok but definitely a tad slower than the new genuine o2 sensor I replaced it with. So as I believe I've said before... Check for vacuum leaks, ensure o2 sensor and injectors are in good condition and motor in good condition. And drive sensibly, short shift around 2500rpm and use a little more throttle to get the car moving, driving like this its also critical your tuner doesn't have the afr's dropping to flat 12's as soon as any boost is made. From factory my rb20det driving as such would hang in closed loop until roughly 2psi was being made, so it was running lean, possibly why it consistently returned just under 500km's to a tank. But as with everything there are bad cars and good ones... Its just finding what is causing the problem. R33's suffer the poor fuel economy problems much more often than the R32's, its not displacement as I've noticed no real noticable difference and i'm 1ltr over a 2ltr.

You can pick up a decent seagate sata II for a tad cheaper than that. I tend to steer clear as Wd drives due to their lack of reliability at high temps.

I remember a while back (a good 2-3years) Mark I think his name is (owner of tilbrooks) said they get Rhemac motors do their motors. EDIT: Chris32 beat me to it.

Stepping up to a much bigger turbo (vg30 highflow) will result in the first 2 gears being useless, and I mean useless, almost to the point where it feels like its hardly boosting. I ran a late model vg30det turbo on my rb20det, first gear felt a little crappy as it didn't really boost and in the later gears it lost that hard snap in the back turbo feel, it came on progressive. Which is quite obvious really, its a turbo designed for a 3ltr with lots of exhaust flow they don't want the turbo spooling at 1500rpm now do they. The vg30det turbo is nothing more than an rb20det turbo with a larger compressor cover and larger turbine cover. So yes.. the vg30 runs the same compressor and turbine wheel as the rb20 turbo. Nissan have done this as to shift the spool and power band if you like higher up in the rpm on the big 3ltr yet still make lowish power levels. If they were to leave the same rb20det comp and turbine covers on the turbo it would spool too early and power would nose over hard after 4000rpm. This is what makes it a bad match for the rb20, the turbo favours exhaust flow, which is not what you want on an rb20. As said.. go the rb25 turbo or step up to a 2530 and beyond but do think about your goals, a street car that doesn't boost in the first 2 gears is not fun.

It really depends what you want out of the car and its one of those things where you really need to feel how the 3ltr transforms the car. The mid range is simply awesome and mate that with 4wd, its unreal. I could never go back..... To put it in perspective. A stock rb25det making 190rwkw odd (12psi) running the usual pfc, fmic, exhaust. An rb30det running a gt35r .82 (18psi) at no point makes less power anywhere down low (2500-3500rpm) than a rb25det even though the rb25det still runs its stock small quick spooling turbo. So essentially it lunges off idle better than an rb25 then feels like an rb25 from 2500-3500rpm then it snaps and turns in to a monster. Pretty damn good for such a big turbo.

It will work fine. You will need a 4wd sump adaptor. I think its worth it, with a set of nice rods, pistons, full crank snout and possibly if you can stretch an aftermarket harmonic balancer it will rev like buggery and reliably. A balancer 'may' not be needed for reliability at high rpm (7500rpm+ or there abouts) providing you run the full oil pump drive crank collar. I don't really know to be honest, maybe some one else who has played can enlighten us. Best place to start... Finding a good rebuilder that has had plenty to do with the rb30's in the past; the rebuild is likely to be cheaper and more reliable. Pick up the phone and start making a few phone calls.

The turbolight really is overpriced for what it is... Spend $56 or thereabouts and grab some Motul 8100 5w40 or grab some Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for ~$50. Both good full synth oils.

Yep the oldies have had it on their last 2 cars. They origionally owned an 80series landcruiser that didn't have one fitted and showed signs of rust after 3 years. They sold it and bought a nissan patrol and had one of these gizmo's fitted, funny enough the car had rust on it from factory, it went back, they got another, that was soon traded in for a new 100series landcruiser, the old toyota 4wds definitely have it over the patrols i must say. The new landcruiser also has one of these gizmos fitted, no rust yet and its 1yr old, see's salt water (boat) every weekend. http://www.ruststop.com.au/

I've just redone my light/moderate load ign. and afr's... Should be interesting next tank, the ignition has actually made quite a difference to how the car feels off idle, prior accelerating from a standing start in second would have it bog for a fraction of a second, now it simply accelerates without bogging. I've got a real strange issue around 2000rpm as the turbo tries to make more than a few psi, it appears to bog, boost goes up, afr reading goes way lean then as soon as it gets over 2000rpm it clears its throat and acceleartion literally snaps on. I'm assuming this may have some thing to do with the n/a cams running around 8degree's overlap and such a small turbo. Nothing I do will get rid of it, super rich afr's, lots or little ignition timing or a mixture... Buggers me.