Cubes

Mine used to cut when the motor was fairly cold, it took a good 20minute drive or so in cold conditions for it not to cut. This was running 1.1bar on the stock turbo, same thing it would cut in third but at around 4500rpm.

The 5.5-6.8ohm resistors are the ones to use. 10W is fine providing you mount them to a metal box and mount the pack outside of the engine bay (as the origional gtr resistor pack is) Reason being is when the resistors get hot they don't perform as they should. So even with the propper GTR resistor pack in a GTST you shouldn't mount it inside the engine bay. I prefer to use the 15w+ watt resistors encased in a heatsink.

Why not reverse the location of the tensioners? Right side up high above the water pump, the left down low? Interestering you mention Chris Milton Engine Developments, thats who we had do our head. His price for the bottom end was too expensive for what I wanted. I was only after a fairly stockish rebuild + a set of forged pistons, crank and rods machined for equal clearances, block crank and rod crack test and a nice heinz balance. From memory the balance was around $400, thinking back now I'm also pretty sure Andrew sent the bits to Miltons for the balance. Not too many ppls have heinz balancers.

What ratio is it?

Possibly. I wouldn't go to the trouble to be honest. VLT's don't run oil squirters and they have well and truely proven their reliability. R32 RB25DE bottom end and top end. Bolt it in the r32 and everything hooks up as per the rb20. It also runs on the rb20 ecu, my rb30det even ran on the rb20 ecu without any issues until 6-7psi.

Forgy's sitting on top of a rb25 or 26 rod is worse than one sitting on a rb30 rod. Piston speed isn't really an issue. Its all about the rod to stroke ratio. The RB30 rod length is 152.7mm The stroke is 85mm. Thats a rod to stroke ratio of 1.79. Rather nice. The RB26 rod to stroke ratio is 1.65 from memory. Visualise it. http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0104scc_ssbbpart7/EDIT: Here's a nice little link to help.[/url] At the end of the day the rod to stroke ratio doesn't make 'that' much of a difference to integrity, more so the lesser friction. Balancing the motor to 2grams or less will also help it hold together better at high rpm. I've been told usual street performance balance is 4grams, factory 12grams and race 2grams. Mine was apparently done to 2grams. Unsure if thats overall 2grams or individual as even the smallest nut had been touched.

RB30 isn't expensive if you are rebuilding a motor anyway. I'd have to say its also quite a bit cheaper to build than to buy a RB26 and slot that in, only benifit of the rb26 is it already has turbo's, chances are they will spit though, as they do. It depends if you are happy with an unknown second hand motor with unknown kays or you would rather have a nice fresh motor. RB30 bottom end is $100 Bottom end rebuild can be done for $1800 Rb25 head - $750-$1000 Fit head and timing belt - $232 Engine mount mods if you don't have a gtr style plenum - $70 VRS gasket kit $260 $3462 + labour if you don't drop it in yourself. Or.. Do the same to an rb25 or rb20 and it would cost very similiar. (minus the rb25 head purcahse) ------------ You can't bolt the rb20 head on the rb25 bottom end. The Rb25de n/a also doesn't have oil squirters, not that its an issue if you are using forged pistons. The R32 rb25de head uses all the same rb20 sensors so yer.

I have a little piston slap when cold. First I thought it was a slightly noisy valve train (i hoped it wasn't as the head was rebuilt), had some one look at it only to tell me it was piston slap.

Awesome.. I will have to give them a buzz to check if it is indeed a private practise day.

Stock rods with constant track use would make me nervous at 300rwkw+. No worse than the rb25. If anything better as the rb30 rod has a better r/s ratio, more leverage (piston weight won't hurt the rods as much) and as there is more leverage there is less rod side load. The rod fly's up and down the bore straighter. If that makes sense.

Abo Bob, The Auto would work really well with the auto I think. I had planned on it. UNTIL I changed plans and plan to not use the car as a daily driver once I finish uni, more so a bit of a fun car. Its not worth selling it. With regards to spool and response.. You would have roughly the same spool/response with the RB30 and a XR6 Turbo as the RB25 with a GCG VG30 highflow setup. GCG VG30 comes on hard around the 3800rpm mark with the RB25, The XR6 turbo comes on hard around 3800rpm with the rb30, but obviously with more torque and acceleration off boost. The XR6 turbo apparently makes a solid 10psi a shade over 3000rpm. 10psi from that huffer is still a reasonable amount of airflow = power. Linear = traction. Its 100% the way I'm going now. I'm sticking the vg30 turbo on for a few months then at the end of the year will hopefully find a well priced xr6 turbo and bolt it on. Hope my spool estimates are correct.

Put the S15 in maxx.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...s&highlite=cost

The Neo's run solid followers, there's no hydraulic followers to tick. But there is bad clearances that can cause tick.

Especially considering the shorter stroke of the rb20 creates more rod sideload than an rb25/26/30, Which is what breaks rods.

obviously not a stock turbo, chances are the only thing left stock is the turbine housing and possibly the comp cover if you lucky.

I don't believe the RB20's real problem is its lack of capacity. Its the lacking the ability to breath well once over 200rwkw. Headwork bigger valves or simply grab a RB25DE leave the head stock and rebuild the 2.5ltr bottom end.

Fuel economy isn't too bad, roughly 430kays to 50litres or so. I am finding it annoying how she snaps on so hard with such little acceleration, you constantly have to be on the ball when trying to accelerate just that little bit harder than limping pace. The VG30 with its larger turbine housing will be better suited and smoother to drive. ------ Use the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold and RB20DET plenum. You can use the R32 RB25DE plenum, it lacks the BOV's boost feed, T into the carbon canistors feed. You will also notice the turbo inlet manifold has a water galley run around the injectors that then feeds in to the turbo water lines around the back of the head. On the n/a inlet manifold this is blocked off. Not too much of a drama, I left mine blocked off. I drove my oldies 100series v8 landcruiser around for a few days this week. Jumping back in to my car I realised i have a big diff whine. What clutch are you settling on?

I'll be there It will only be up around 210rwkw, will be a good cheap check up.

wow.. 3300rpm.. Is that on the street say rolling on in second gear from low rpm or loaded up on the dyno. My rb20det with the stock rb20det turbo rolling on in second used to see 15psi by around 3500rpm. Loading it up I could see 15psi by 2800rpm or so. A friend has a VLT, rolling on from low rpm in second saw 12-13psi around 3000rpm.

hahah... Exactly why I said Generally... :)

There's different levels of blueprinting, is what i'm trying to get at. Every motor has had some blueprinting, even when its been crapply rebuilt. Its a little like the old' Fully worked saying. lol

Pics... Some nice macro ones of the comp wheel. I'm keen to see the results.

Blueprinting is really just a word which means you check things instead of simply slapping it together without measuring it. Blueprinting is simply double checking everything, setting up everything perfectly, i.e squish, bearing clearances, piston/bore clearances etc.

Providing you are up for a set of pistons because your old ones are mashed or stuff then the forged items is probably worth it. Thats what I did.. If I didn't have to buy new pistons I wouldn't have worried about forged and stuck with the stock items. Generally, if the power you are making warrants forged pistons, it also warrants forged rods.