Cubes

Cruise your o2 sensor will take over and do its best based on the stock map to achieve 14.7:1. The RB20DET used to run 14.7:1 until ~2psi of boost. The RB30DET runs 14.7:1 under real light throttle then quickly drops to 12:1 due to it swallowing more air than the rb20det used to with a psi or two. I will be having the RB30DET tuned at 14.7:1 until a psi or 2 boost as the rb20det stock ecu was. This does reduce a little bit of off boost torque but really.. I don't care, if I want it up on boost quicker I'll drop it back a gear. Not that the 3ltr has an issue with boost build.

There's a bloke a rx7 forum that is developing a piece of software similiar to the datalogit. I've had a play with it and it looks much better than the logit. He is currently working on a Nissan version, I believe he has completed the honda and rotor versions. His software uses his own cable, the software is also compatible with the datalogit cable and genuine apexi cable. It looks very promising. EDIT: The software is able to open data files from both the datalogit and the genuine apexi fcedit or what ever its called.

I've recently moved to a turbo that doesn't have the surge ring or what ever it is directly in front of the compressor wheel as the RB20 and RB25 turbo's do. This turbo is so so quiet, I can only hear a slightly whistle as its on boost. The old stock turbo was damn noisy, big loud whooshing sucking noises. Looks awesome.. Be sure to inform us of the spool characteristics. Maybe take a vid of how she spools under general driving.

I've said it in many thread prior but here we go again. I've had 2 x 12" davis thermo's mounted directly to the radiator with no shroud. They were fine apart from peak hour traffic in 35+degree heat with the a/c on. The car would boil. I ended up removing them and fitting back up the stock setup, which is ok but still tends to get a little warm in peak hour traffic, 35+degree days and witht he a/c on when you sit in the same spot for a good 5minutes. If I rev the car to 2000rpm the car keeps cool and sits under 90degree's, at idle the stock clutch fan doesn't pull enough air. Hitting the ambient temp button the highest outside temp I have seen in peak hour traffic is 65degree's. So it is very very hot. I will be fitting up a set of EL twin thermo's, run 2 temp sensors, low for ~85degree's and high for ~88degree's. Wire it up in series/parallel and there's my high low. EL thermo fans are the only fans that will fit in to a r32 and possibly r33 as the a/c stuff is damn close to the radiator. Not to mention the dimensions are perfect.

Every car is different. Try and you will learn.

If its the small hose i'm thinking, who ever changed the plugs last probably forgot to put it back on.

My issue isn't with the power reading but more so the flat top end. It shouldn't be flattening out the way it is.

fixyourbonnetslackarseorban!

I've dropped the stock vg30det bb ceramic turbo on the rb30det. Suprisingly mid range is much stronger, torque doesn't hit hard then accelerate at the same pace as the rb20det turbo did. When the VG30DET turbo was on the rb20det mid range was really gutless, much less than the stock rb20det turbo, its interestering how its now the opposite. Now it hits hard then comes on stronger and stronger. The RB30DET has finally lots its diesel 3.0TDI feel. It has made the exhaust deeper and slightly drony around 70-80km/h. Overall I really like the way power comes on, the vg30det turbo is definitely a nice match to the 3ltr. Power comes on hard around 2500rpm vs the rb20det turbo's 2000rpm. But its not like there is nothing under 2500rpm its still making really good power just much more linear. It feels like it wants to rev now, I'll throw it on the dyno and get it tuned up within the next few weeks and see where peak power shifts too. Another interestering observation is the turbo is so so quiet. Possibly due to the compressor cover not containing the surge ring as the rb20det/rb25det turbos do? The rb20det turbo used to make loud sucking psshhhhhh noises when on boost, this one only has a slight whistle. Similiar to how a vlt sounds. I now feel like a much lesser hoon when overtaking or zipping out from the ending left lane.

Nothing wrong with the stock plenum. They handle up to 300rwkw without issues. The RB20DET plenum is exactly the same as the RB25DE plenum, the rb25 inlet manifold does however have slightly larger ports. The stock exhaust manifold becomes an issue before the plenum does.

Homework without text books as I spend every cent I have on the car.

I was looking at this hose today when I had the turbo out. Mine too is leaking. I think a straight piece of hose will work perfectly, cut it the same length obviously and the bend it down slightly, it will hold its position due to where it connects either end. The other hoses can be replaced with straight hose also, the trick is to remove the protective rubber outer from the old hose and slide it over the new. This will mould the hose to suit that shape. It should work, pwr steer hose is quite a bit stiffer than the old heater hose.

Plugs are gapped at .7-.8mm?

That wear mark is normal for a R32. The R33's engage the whole length.

Homework.

You sound relieved.

I'd better get my arse in to get and get the car in to Shauns for a tune.

Its not common for RB's to do headgaskets, its generally ring lands or nothing. 'Generally' Are you sure its oil and not coolant gone bad and sludgy? My R32 GTST had an oil looking substance everywhere, it would attach its self to the bottom of the radiator cap and radiator neck. It was a browny colour that felt a little oily and also dispersed water as oil/grease does. 3 engine power flush and rad flushes + numerous self mukout HD flushes (that HD stuff smells like acid, scary) it came good, no more build up.

Thats not the problem. The problem occurs when they actually crack. Open up the oil pump and inspect the internal gear. I've seen a few pumps that are fine but have a little wear on the drive gear. Unless the wear is so extreme the crank drive spins without touching the oil pump drive, in your case this is not the case.

What plugs are you running? The top end looks as if its flattening out a little, that could be due to the plugs, it could also be due to a restriction in the exhaust or as some one else mentioned wheel spin on the dyno. If power had not have flattened out it would be up around 148rwkw. I do agree though, that power figure is embarrasing. 150rwkw doesn't feel fast anyway, its only once you are up around 200rwkw it starts feeling fast. My 176rwkw felt slow even though it was making 100 of those rwkw by ~2000rpm. This was run in 4th but only taken to ~6000rpm due to it not making any more power after 5000rpm. Torque dip in the middle is wheel spin.

What static comp ratio did you end up with? The stock 8.5:1? Providing you have the required support mods, fmic and turbo to support such boost levels I would look at 20-25psi. As I said thats providing the turbo is efficient at those boost levels and the fmic can handle the flow and charge temps. I would tend to run the higher boost levels on the street and a less highly strung boost level for the track. As really, on the street its only quick bursts of power not big long 4th gear windouts.

Rods and crank you will need. Thats an expensive overheat, whats the rebuild going to cost?

Those ebay gtechs look good for around $50. Might have to grab my self one after the injectors and tune. Thanks for the heads up.

How often do you accelerate hard from low rpm in 4th. You do however punch it hard from down low out of corners in second. Testing second gives more of an indication how the car drives under 'general' street conditions.

Google is your friend my friend. http://www.google.com.au/search?q=12psi+to...:en-US:official