Cubes

Just remember, lag and spool time is very subjective. I am very sensitive to lag.

Some may find it interesting or usefull. I recently purchased a set of R34 GTR Injecrtors (Silver Body) and had them cleaned/flowed. As a nice touch Mildrens also engraved each injector with its corresponding number. Pulsed flow was 80% duty cycle 6000rpm. 1.01% variation in flow. While I was down there I had a little chat to them about tuning. They told me they have this new little data logging machine that monitors flow and fuel pressure. They also remove your o2 sensor in the dump, screw theirs in and tune that way to achieve the most accurate afr's. They appear to do things the best way, their dyno tuning is also charged by the time used. Not for just a tune. For example, a complete tune that may take 2-3hrs will cost $200-$300.

Saw a dead stock looking VS V6 Auto commodore with P plates stuck on it at Mildrens yesterday. Walked around to the front to see 2 turbo's bolted on to each bank. The thing made 240rwkw at 8psi and just over 300rwkw on 12psi.

So if this R33 turbo measures up as 45mm thats the same as my rb20det turbo. I remember discopotato stating the R33 turbines are slightly larger than the R32's. Is this really the case? Angry, that VG30DET turbo, could you do a few measurements and post a pic of the compressor wheel? It would be great if and when you rotate the compressor housing (as you have to do with the vg30det turbo's) could you remove it and measure the compressor wheel. Being the 45V4 and slightly newer than the one I have it woul dbe interestering to see if they uprated the compressor wheels. The later model Vg30DET's made 206kw vs the ~190kw earlier models. The Vg30DET turbo I have has the same compressor wheel as the rb20det turbo's, exactly the same. The only difference being the turbine and compressor cover is larger, obviously allowing for higher airflow.

Thats a bugger..

And my stockish R32.

SA appears to be the R32 RB30DET capital.

I like the motul and catrol engine oils.

I wouldn't worry Ben, the tuner will do it. Be sure to give him a gentle reminder that u have fiddled with the timing.

Is yours a 2ltr or 2.5ltr? I find with the the 3ltr it drops out of closed loop really easy, with the lightest of throttle, stabbing the throttle has it instantly dropping to load points 15-16 with no boost from as low as 1200rpm. --- The PFC assumes you have matched the timing to the value in the pfc.

If I had the extra cash at the time I definitely would have gone forged rods.

Why would it be 14.7:1 off boost anyway? When you drop out of closed loop mode due to pushing your foot on the accelerator too hard the afr will drop to anywhere from 13:1 to 12:1, then you push on the accelerator a little harder again and it comes on to boost, the afr's then drop to 11.5 or 12:1. I'm not interestered in the pfc's common idle hunt issues, I'm more so interested in the transition from off to on throttle at low rpm, i.e decelerating in to a corner off the throttle then rolling back on the throttle at low rpm. With the R32/R33 values I found mine bogged at low rpm a little. I've always had the odd idle hunt, with the stock ecu and the pfc, the pfc for myself provides a much more stable idle. However, It didn't until I adjusted the idle screw to the rpm idle set in the pfc. Then did an init and idle learn for the next 30mins. I've just clocked 246km's to half a tank of juice, this bigger turbo is helping the 3ltr keep off boost and suck less juice at light throttle. I had a good look at the exhaust today, usually I would see a small stream of black fuel smoke trailing from the exhaust on a cold start, I now see nothing. Apart from a bit of water due to condensation.

I've used stock as I'm only after up to 300rwkw. Sky30 is running a complete stock bottom end and has been running slightly over 300rwkw for some time now. Also.. With regards to strut tower braces, I was looking at a cusco that very well may do the job.

Well my guinea pig.. GET TO IT! You gotta walk the walk if your gonna talk the talk.

I have R34 GTR injectors, the only difference is the body is silver vs the R32/R33's black.

Randy, I'd say the turbo had been rebuilt with a bush core some time during its life.

You can tune it so that when it drops out of closed loop you run 11-12:1 afr's in order to pick up some off boost torque. Tune it to 14.7:1 off boost if you are after economy. You can go furthur and tune up to ~2psi with an afr of 14:1, helps a little with economy. It really depends on the turbo setup and how quickly it boosts, if it boosts quickly you may see an improvement in economy by tuning as such, if it doesn't make that 2psi until 3500rpm with 1/2 throttle then its pointless.

Yes thats correct, mine gets to operating temp just as quick, you will find without as much injector correction the car will jump in to closed loop ever so slightly earlier than with a lot of inj. correction. Every little bit counts. Do you simply start and drive or let it idle for a min or two? How did you find drivability? After I fitted the Z32 I found the car felt a little dead, it appears the z32 ever so slightly richens everything up. Using this table in mine has made it much better, no more dead feeling.

Yes thats correct, mine gets to operating temp just as quick, you will find without as much injector correction the car will jump in to closed loop ever so slightly earlier than with a lot of inj. correction. Every little bit counts. How did you find drivability? Do you simply start and drive or let it idle for a min or two?

160rwkw... hrmm sounds like a bit I guess but its still fairly slow. 160rwkw won't have you reeling past cars as quick as you think it would, 200rwkw doesn't even really reel past cars that quick. 250rwkw+ is where it starts to look quick. You don't want the turbo kicking in any earlier than say just under 3000rpm, it will be wasted and much better off having that little bit extra power at higher rpm's. Watch the tacho next time your selecting a gear and ready to accelerate out of a corner through the hills.

hrmmm .6 you say disco. I would still prefer the .5, you will need all the response you can get with the 1.06. The XR6 boys don't seem to have trouble cracking 320-340rwkw on the .5 comp cover. More than enough for the stock rod rb30. Then again... The .7 comp gt35r 1.06 turbine will still have better response and spool time than an rb20det with a highflow or 2530 on it.

Go the 8. If I remember correctly Roy's starts to boogie (as well as an rb20det can hehe) around 4k or so.

I run a extreme 9puck ceramic. Its done ~22,000km's in whats nearing a year of driving. It is fairly bitey, often causes a bit of driveline backlash when reversing. Taking off can be done smoothly without chirps. I'm a little paranoid about riding it though, they absolutely chew stock flywheels to bits. A ceramic clutch mated to a stock flywheel will tend to be a little more bitey, molly flywheels are harder as a result less bitey. I do run quite a heavy pressure plate, some where around 1tonne. Its the HD. Next time around I will try the same weight pressure plate with an organic full face, if it ends up slipping I will go back to the 9puk. Mainly because riding ceramic clutches is a no no.

Platinum, For my own curiosity, who are you getting to build the motor in Adelaide?

Remember to blank out those number plates if your going to take pics and make them available for viewing.