Cubes

Are you sure the GTR pedal box is different? Bl4ck32 picked one up and said it was the same?!?!

The stock IC does jack, possibly with a little bit of boxing off it may work well. When my r32 was stock I took it up a 2km or so hill that is damn steep and is 100km/h. I sat on just over 100km/h with boost bleeding off slightly not quite on 11psi but almost. At the top of the hill the stock IC was pretty damn hot. Nothing like the fmic where the inlet side tanks are hot but the oulet are stone cold. My guess at the time was is the air isn't actually moving through the stock IC rather around it and out the vents in the wheel arch.

I've had both a organic and current have a 9puk. The organic was nice in traffic but I found it to slip after hard launches, my lauches rode the clutch a lot to get off the line clean. Clicking second had it some times slipping and it would stink. I have now gone to a 9puk but with a 1tonne clutch. The pressure plate is quite heavy but I do like the no-slip feel of the 9puk. Paired up with a 800kg pressure plate it would be quite nice. I recently replaced my slave cylinder and have noticed the clutch no longer shudders when reversing, its easier to ride and all over appears much smoother. Unsure why that is. My vote is with the 9puk. Nothing quite like a nice grabby clutch.

100%. I used one on my RB20DET.

For track days I wouldn't think twice about getting the FMIC first.

I don't believe too hard = axle tramp. If anything thats caused by lack of shocker control and suspension bush movement.

No need for part numbers. Walk in and grab a VL one. The better quality aftermarkets come with a gasket.

I assumed you said your idle was reading higher than 15degree's via the consult hence the ecu's map. ??? The timing light you are using could be dodgy. Some RB's double pulse showing strange readings on the harmonic balancer.

7000rpm in first in the R32 is around 50-55km/h.. Imagine changing up at 5500rpm. lol.

Simark, I sent you an email regarding the ball rusting ever so slightly. I honestly think it was partially my fault, I screwed it in and out then blowed through it. My exhaled air is what I think started to rust the ball where the spring pushes against it. Rust is a bad word, its a real slight surface rust that is scratched off easily. For the price, they are a bargain regardless, in the engine bay with the nice hot air any moisture will evaporate quick smart. I'll pull mine out in a week or so and see how its going.

Simark, I sent you an email regarding the ball rusting ever so slightly. I honestly think it was partially my fault, I screwed it in and out then blowed through it. My exhaled air is what I think started to rust the ball where the spring pushes against it. Rust is a bad word, its a real slight surface rust that is scratched off easily. Ball all in all for the price they are they are a bargain, in the engine bay with the nice hot air any moisture will evaporate quick smart. I'll pull mine out in a week or so and see how its going.

Damn.. I seriously would cry if I hit 3/4 with only 240km's. I've just used 1/4 of a tank and clocked 117km's. Fuel economy can be affected by a few things. Tuning (AFR's and Ign. Timing) Injectors.. What injectors are you using?

It comes with instructions. Very easy to follow.

I'm going to check out Bl4ck32's take a few pictures, pull mine out and reinforce it. Possibly even do a DIY guide for the Maint. section.

Maybe he's now using Stainless Steel ball bearings now?!?!? Even though he should have been before as it did state that it had s/steel internals but infact it doesn't Every 1 drop him a question about it.. I have.. He hasn't replied yet.

hehe

Thats impossible the O2 sensor has made any difference. The Microtech ECU's DO NOT USE THEM, 100%, my old tuner Tim Possingham was the bloke who was in bed with Microtech and setup and tested the very first R32/R33 'Plugin' Microtech's. They are NOT 02 closed loop capable, 100% of that. The tuner 'may' have leaned the car out a little or done a little more dyno work + the freeway driving which does make a nice difference to fuel consumption.

What was every ones tell tale signs before it popped. Mine has started clicking in the first 1/4 that I press the pedal down. Unsure if its related or simply wear and tear on the pivot.

Prior to installing it I pulled it apart again, I found the ball bearing is indeed NOT stainless steel, as I blew through it prior it had begun rusting the ball bearing. I cleaned it up and threw it in anyhow, appears to work well HOWEVER I am unable to wind any boost in as the cars been tuned with 12:1 afr's. So more boost will = lean. The stock rb20det turbo is crap anyhow, I might throw a cheapo VG30DET turbo on it until I get the money for the new turbo.

The VG30DET turbo is capable of 200rwkw. Are the rotary turbo compressors capable of flowing this much air? I had a mate with a 13B T in a little RX3 many years ago. 200rwkw was made with a highflowed turbo. The exhaust side may be capable but is the compressor side?

From memory gearbox ratios are fairly close between the rb30/25/20 box's. I've always toyed with the idea of a 3.7 or 3.9:1 diff ratio. What diff ratio do the GTR's run? 3.9? It rings a bell for some reason.

Looks like you were taken for a ride. The Microtech MTX12 does not use the O2 sensor. It is not Closed loop capable. What will affect your fuel economy is light load ignition timing your afr's through light load. Theoretically you should be able to tune a non-o2 sensor car as good as an o2 sensor equiped. Simply light load up to ~30rwkw and set afr's to 15-16:1. If the tuner doesn't know what he is doing here you will get shiet fuel economy. I still don't understand how to find the optimal light load ign. timing. I'm unsure if you can do it via an EGT guage, possibly advance until the EGT drops to its lowest value then pull it back a degree, you then have the optimum advance for that rpm/load??? Possibly returning the best fuel economy as it 'should' be returning the best torque for that rom/load. Advance too much and the motor will be working against its self resulting in less torque, too little and the flame front in the cylinder will be chasing the piston down the bore not actually pushing it the best it could if it were ignited slightly earlier. I've got an RB20DET PowerFC on my R32 RB30DET, fiddling with light load picked me up from 430km's to 470-480 to a tank of petrol. ~50litres of fuel. Its now returning fuel economy very similiar to the rb20det but with much more poke at low rpm.

Bl4ck32's has recently broke. Apparently it popped a weld and tore the metal in another place.

I went for a spin in a friends VLT and vice versa today. I actually quite liked the power delivery, gearing and turbo matching of a VLT running a 2.5" exhaust, FMIC & 13psi. Turbo spool differences.. High gear 1500rpm full throttle mine will make 12psi pretty quick. The VLT didn't. It required around 2000rpm on board to get boost being made. On the road I noticed the VLT started pulling hard from around 3500rpm and actually went pretty well. Taking the VLT man for a spin first thing he said was. "It doesn't have time to 'Use' the torque" I feel he hit the nail on the head. The stock turbo made peak torque at 2000rpm. Giving the car a little stick its always up over 3500rpm, simply because of road speed. Power drops off after 4950rpm and really there is no point reving past as the short gears have you selecting the gear at peak power then accelerating with power dropping rather than gaining like it should. In other words, a stock rb20, 25 or even RB30et turbo is really a bad match for the RB30DET with the Skylines gearing. Open up the hot side as to improve top end (over 5000rpm) VE and have the 3ltr reving to 6000-7000rpm and the gearing will be a good thing. Possibly a new gen VG30DET turbo? As I am a full time student I make the money to 'waste' on the car during holidays. I may pick up a cheapy Vg30DET turbo, throw it on and see how it goes until I get the big mofo turbo on. It was nice to be in a car that you can actually wind out the gears a little. Something I haven't felt for a long time. The RB30DET with the stock turbo's on it really does feel like Diesel Powahhhh. lol Very much like my parents 2003 Nissan Patrol 3.0TDI. They have since traded it in for a Landcruiser V8 auto, which suprisingly goes damn hard. Very punchy off the line.

Not on the Davis Craig clutch fans. It lists the VLT, R32, R33 and R31 as the same. The VL is under a different part number.