Cubes

The VL SOHC boys don't have any issues running the GT35R with a 1.06 exh. a/r. They claim the .82 comes on too hard and creates too many traction issues.

Depends on the power level. Why over turbo the car? Very much like over clutching or over gearing. A lot like the 3ltr with the stock R32 gearing. It sucks, way to short. I'm getting my self a S13 3.9:1 before any more money is spent on big turbo's etc. What I would give to have a longer first and second gear so I can actually use the torque of the motor. For up to and slightly over 300rwkw you can save a few $$ by grabbing a HKS 2835ProS or 3037ProS unit from japan for just under 3k imported. It bolts directly on to the manifold. Buy a garrett item and your paying 2000 for the turbo + exh. manifold 1000 + ext. wastegate 700. 1000 for an exh. manifold.. Cheapest 'decent good quality' exh. manifolds I know of are around 1500. $1000 or slightly less is for a cast HKS item which by all means is a very good manifold. I wouldn't pay 4k for a hks item. Buy from nengun or greenline for under 3k.

Grepin managed to squeeze a shade over 300rwkw (from memory) out of his HKS 2835ProS. The trick was apparently a set of nice big cams, prior to that 280rwkw was around its limit, boost drops off. With the cams boost still drops off but obviously as a result of cams the same boost level is flowing more air. More air = more power. From memory the 2835ProS was around 2.6-3k if you import it from japland. On the RB25 I don't think anything would match it for response and outright power.

Who let tha dogs out.. woof... woof woof ... woo woof.

pnblight is on the ball. As pressure increases flow drops off. You will always get more HP out of a pump if you run larger injectors rather than run the smaller items and try to squeeze that little bit more out of them with an increase of fuel pressure.

hehe you answered your own question.

I picked up my PFC and handcontroller second hand for the R32 for $1100. I plugged it in and drove it to the shop for a cheap $100 tune. The tune is good enough for now, afr's and ign. timing at WOT is optimal.

The HKS 2540 has an internal gate.

Provided a decent weight reduction no doubt. Best I have achieved is 2kg.

Why 16" if you want to go slicks? Go 15's and some 'real' slicks.

I am able to pick one up for $70 from JMS. I'm in Adelaide so they are local. Including shipping less than that to make it worth while, not sure what shipping would be worth. I would have to grab a measurement and weigh it to be sure. No more than $20 for postage I would think. I figure its a part thats not really in demand. The previous owner decided to redrill and weld mine in an attempt to make it adjustable. lol

Hi peoples, I'm after the drivers side angled section that runs from the radiator support to the chassis rail, the radius rod bolts up to it. It simply bolts up with 2 bolts each end. Picture of the part in question.

I'm a fiddler, its as simply as that. So I wasn't scared to do a little bit of street tuning. Suprisingly the RB20DET PowerFC's base map ran quite well with the RB30DET. lol The Base map is quite safe as even with the 3ltr and making 175rwkw at 4400rpm it was pushing the injectors to 100% duty cycle at around 3000rpm. The AFR's were plenty rich. WOT ign. timing was a little advanced for the 3ltr as the small turbo and N/A RB25 cams is not a good match. Reversion due to back pressure and cams that have overlap (N/A) sucks. At peak power its only running 15degree's ign. timing vs the RB20's base map of 20degree's. Peak torque its got 17degree's for one rpm point then to 16degree's for another rpm point then 15degree's from there on. Before I put it on the dyno, I wired up the Z32 plugged it and and simply selected Z32 from the AFM option menu. This is when I noticed a slight dead spot when stone cold. I mean stone cold as I NEVER warm up my cars. However, spend 5 minutes warming the car up and there is no dead spot. I live by the rule you do more damage and waste fuel by warming up the car than simply driving it off lightly. Driving it off lightly brings water temps, piston temps and idle temps up much quicker. Upon a cold start I can hear the forgy's slapping slightly. If I idle it for 10minutes the pistons are still ever so slightly tapping. Slapping for 10minutes, thats a lot of slaps. I was told not to warm up the car but simply drive it off lighty by the engine builder. He said it keeps the bores and pistons in better condition for longer. I drive the car changing at 2000rpm and piston slap goes away within 200meters. Thats less than a minute. Water temps are up to normal operating temp within 2minutes and oil pressure down (oil temp is up) within another 5-7minutes. lol went off topic there. --- Do the R33 PFC's have the listing of RB20, Z32, VH41 (90mm)? I think this is where the AP PowerFC differs to the regular PFC's. IF I don't select Z32 from the AFM menu and try to drive around AFR's are lean. It drives nice and I can't tell but its constantly lean. A friend of mine has a Q45 90mm AFM, it runs a pod adapter that acts like a restrictor, its smaller than the afm ID. For some strange reason his car ran basically perfect with the stock AFM option selected. Possibly a problem caused by the pod adaptor being smaller than the AFM. Select the correct afm from the afm menu in the pfc and it ploomed black smoke as it ran as rich as hell.

Out of curiosity. Those that have fitted up a PFC and driven on the stock map. Did you have any issues with the warm starts? I had to dial up the fuel a little for the warm start crank as it was simply sitting there spinning over and over. Since I've fitted the Z32 I've also experienced a slight little flat spot on the accelerator when cold, bumping up the +10 and +30 water temp fuel compensation has totally got rid of the slight dead spot.

With regards to the rb20/25 items once they are done. All in all for around $550 or maybe cheaper for the rb20/25 single log, would I rather buy a stock manifold that has been extrude honed, or one of those crappy stainless autobarn/gcg specials as the price points are around the same. I know what my choice will be. Besides the point, a good quality tuned length exh. manifold is worth 3 times the price of this extrude honed manifold. It comes down to the old saying You get what you pay for. There really is no comparison.

11psi already?!?! I wonder if you are missing your cat guts. From others that I have seen with a stock exhaust there is literally zero gain by upping your boost UNTIL you fit an exhaust.

Pop the hood and boot, have a really good look under every nook and cranny. Fuel filter is in the engine bay on the drivers side, fuel pump is accessed through the boot.

Spend $35-$50 on a dyno power run for piece of mind. All my fuel filters etc have been replaced. I will check the pumps sock tomorrow i think. Its still running the stock internal pump with an external bosch so no doubt as I run it to the red every tank it will have picked up crap.

Must be a 33 thing.

I've done my calcs. 3.9 it is. A shade over 2500rpm will net 100km/h in 5th. 6000rpm shift point will grab Approx: 57km/h in first 95km/h in second 140km/h in third 183km/h in fourth 234km/h in fifth Stretch the shift to just after 6500rpm where it is likely to be once the bigger turbo is on. Approx 63km/h in first 106km/h in second 157km/h in third 204km/h in fourth 262km/h in fifth. I wouldn't want to lean on the 3ltr much more than a shade over 6500rpm. Scared it will pop.

With the RB30 mine makes all its boost easily under 2000rpm if its loaded up. Under 2000rpm I've noticed the car goes really flat then once over 2000rpm it's like a switch and clears up. Watching the PFC hand controller's O2 sensor voltage I've noticed during this time of possible surge its reading maximum lean. If I hold my foot in to it she begins to missfire and pop a little. I suspect this is what they call a lean missfire??? Unsure really. I wouldn't put it past the stock turbo on the r32 to surge at such low rpms but the lean o2 sensor reading is a concern. I'll have to get it on the dyno and check it out. I have had the Bosch 910 pump in since I bought the car 3yrs+ ago so I wouldn't be suprised if that is on its way out as 100% duty cycle only makes 176rwkw at a low ish rpm. I was under the impression the RB20DET injectors with a good fuel pump max'd out around 190rwkw or so and that is at a higher rpm where the injectors don't have as much time to push fuel in.

I'm considering a diff swap for my R32. I find the 4.363:1 diff ratio with the rb30 is simply too short + the current diff is now openwheeling slightly under acceleration. In the wet it some times spins in to a full open wheel. Apparently the S13 & S14 diff's bolt in if you use the skyline diff's back blate. The S13 being a 3.9:1 (Just what I'm looking for) and the S14 a 4.08. Following that there's the R33 & GTR 4.11:1 ratio. The GTR diff being slightly better as it is a mechanical lsd not the poxy vlsd that tends to open wheen when they get hot. The S13 VLSD isn't an issue as I will be getting the diff tightened up so to speak. I've priced around and its around $300-$350 if I remove and install. The 3.9:1 Should drop the rev's nicely for a drive interstate my other half is fantasising about.

haha.. You mean YOU have settled down.

When cold I honestly found mine shifts a little better with the VMX 80 I had in there, it also had a tube of that Nulon G70 stuff so its not really a good comparison. I have found that after a few changes it shifts like new again, no notchyness. Lightened flywheels makes a noticable difference to high rpm shifts. I will definately be going back, BUT this time, one with a replaceable insert. The ceramic will rip a molly item to pieces.

Roy, Your running that Castrol 75/90 in your box? I've used the above. I figured the slightly thicker warm oil will help my poor little rb20 box behind the rb30. For the first few hundred km's the box was actually perfectly silent again. Its gone back to its usual loud input shaft bearing noise.