Cubes

'leaner' at cruising rev's is fine but you still have to setup the AFR's and ignition at light load. Care to throw your ignition/fuel map up to see exactly what he has modified? I have a R33 RB26DETT PowerFC base map to compare it to.

Leaning out? After mods you are always worth while getting a power run done to see if there are any problems.

Generally a 3.5" is required up over 300rwkw to be 'optimal'. I want to keep the noise down so I will be going a 3.5" dump in to a 3.5" cat, then a 3.5" pipe in to a intermediate muffler that splits the 3.5" in to 2 x 2.5" pipes, 2.5" pipes to the rear of the car where there is another large muffler, 2x 2.5" tips out of the muffler. It will flow really well, not drone and sound quite nice. Its very similiar to the XR6 APS exhaust system.

Any one who has changed thier turbo to a larger item will know how the exhaust becomes louder and more angry sounding. I've heard RB25's that sound mighty tough. It simply comes down to the exhaust. The RB30 sounds a little deeper than the rb20, it does sound nicer, especially if I jam the wastegate open it becomes much louder and brup brup sounding.

Clean those damn oil leaks up in your sig Meggala. They always catch my eye and I end up looking at them. lol

I had a VS V8 commodore previously that was remapped and leaned out close to 17:1. The problem with this is if EGT's arn't monitored and you can't get enough ign. timing in to it the EGT's will kill the cat really quick. The VS 5ltrs are fine with 17:1. But thats no good to us! SK's base map appears to be a modified map, I used the Apexi Software's base map. Yours UNFORTUNATELY I couldn't read too well Can you possibly email me a good copy that I can read the numbers? I'm going to have a chat to my tuner that has the PFC software. I did have a cheap tune done by a local bloke which is good for now. Until I stick the bigger turbo on.

The pineapples don't actually replace the bush concerned. I have noticed my subframe bushes in front of the wheels leaking what looks like silicon, tinny little drops on the ground. Apparently the only options I have are Genuine Nissan Items or the Solid Alloy Bushes. I'm not too keen on the solid jobbies as they may transmit vibrations and harshness to the ride. But they are cheap. I don't really get a creek but more of a clunk every now and again. On the dyno I noticed the wheel really pulling in, closer inspection showed quite a bit of movement in the subframe.

Timmays old R31 5speed GTS stocker ran a 15.1 sec 1/4. Not a bad effort, watching the run was quite funny, really hard chirps in to 2nd and 3rd. Almost as if he was going to rip the shifter out. Don't let peak power fool you ppls. Its the area under the curve and torque that accelerates a car.

No I didn't see it The link went dead before I was able to check it out.

The Manual mode is unable to display the setting in PSI or any value as it represents maximum boost possible i.e 100 has the actuator see zero boost pressure. In other words the figure represents duty cycle of the solanoid. 100% closed. This is what it states in the manual anyhow. The Auto mode learns the boost curve and adjusts the 'duty cycle' to suit the rpm to obtain the boost you want. This is handy when you have a smallish turbo that tends to drop boost or an exhaust that is crap causing the turbo to drop boost in the higher rpm. The EBC see's boost dropping below the preset boost level and raises the duty cycle in an attempt to hold boost up. I had the Blitz SBC-iD in manual mode dropping boost (as did every other ebc that uses the duty cycle manual preset), flick it to manual and it held boost 1bar or what ever I dialed in with the rb20det turbo. However Auto mode can play funny buggers with low rpm and load up hills.

hhhhrmmm You will find a R32 with a turbo back exhaust and a bit of boost is quicker than a R33 with a turbo back exhaust. Add a FMIC and wind the boost up a little on both of them and the R32 is still quicker. BUT do the ECU in the R33 and it will tromp all over the R32 with its low 13's and sometimes high 12's. Stock R32 or 33's with only an exhaust on stock boost are slooow. They need boost in them. Thats my experience anyhow. BUT I do think the 297kw LS2 is quicker than my old R32. Only marginally but I do have a sneaky suspicion its third gear will kill the R32's. Have you got any vids of a 3rd gear little run?

Yep thats right mine has always used the complete map. On a cool night it will hit load point 20 from as low as 2400rpm with 12psi and the stock rb20det turbo. Generally it sits around load point 19 on WOT. Light general traffic driving (only touching the accelerator off boost) see's load point 13-15. Cruise at 100km/h seels load 7. I've moved to a Z32 AFM and found the map not to show any difference with regards to load points at all. The only difference is now instead of hitting just under 5v it now only just hits 4v. I'm not completely sure what is going on as I've heard a few others stating they too only hit 15 or 16, some even only 11 at WOT. I assume it has some thing to do with the stock 'BASE' RB20DET, After all in the PFC manual for major cam mods etc it states you will have to use the software to modify the real map. I think that is refering to the fuel map though. i.e 100 = 14.7afr apparently. Suprisingly the RB20DET PFC base maps fueling was almost perfect, no lean spots however it was slightly rich through the low and mid, it then goes lean over ~6000rpm, max duty cycle is seen at around 5300rpm. --------- I kept the WOT modified part of the map and integrated the RB25 ign. map. It actually appears smoother at low rev's when initially letting out the clutch and idling around car parks.

Popeye, A pod does shit.. Why waste the money on it. Where have you got your car tuned? I may know it? More power doesn't always = faster times Popeye. If your car has a genuine 300rwkw then you will know he will kick your ass to 100km/h UNLESS you are running 265 Drag spec Nittos' or the like. I would like to see the LS2 get up and go once it is in third. My guess is that it will have some nice top end pickup that will have the speedo flicking as if it were doing 0-80km/h. I've had a little play with an LS2 before I had the rb30 tuned. It definitely got up and moved, suprisingly the rb30 didn't have any troubles keeping up with the initial jump, after that i couldn't rev 3000rpm fuel cut , upon gear changes it looked as if the spring rates and chassis was a little too sloppy for the power being delivered. But none the less it did look fast and probably what helped it look fast as it was accelerating away. The LS2 is consistant. Pop the clutch and accelerate away. If the gear ratio's were setup as 'sports' and not so much the daily family beast my gut feeling is it would be rather dangerous. 0-80km/h in first is way too much, lots of potential there.

Here are the R33 RB26DETT & R33 Rb25DET PowerFC Base Ignition Maps. I grabbed them from the Apexi PowerFC Software, They appear to be spot on as the RB20DET base map in it is exactly the same as the one in my PFC. Note the 2000rpm Highload ignition in the rb26 map. 26degree's lol.

It would be nice to see an incar cam of an Auto.

The before after of my tune. Modifications marked in red with the rb20 base map on a different sheet so comparing is easy. Sorry for being slightly off topic.

I've driven an RB25DET making around 180rwkw. To be honest it felt slower than my rb20det making 164rwkw. It didn't have that revy/snappy feeling and appeared not to have the keep on reving feel. Now I have the rb30det making close to 180rwkw in the R32 it definitely has that rev snappy feeling, just at a lower rpm that all. It must be a combination of the r32's lighter weight, lower diff ratio, slightly short gearbox ratio's andthe R33 having vct that may smooth out the power delivery. The r33 to me wasn't really 'fun' to drive. I jumped back in to my r32 and had a smile on my face thinking thank god. Sure the off boost torque of the rb25 was nice but the overall package didn't have that racey feel. Must just be the R32's, fun to drive.

I'm not so sure it would work too well for low rpm as AFM's are calibrated non-linear. What I have observed is that the RB20 and Z32 AFM's are calibrated so low airflow levels have a high resolution. The difference between the resolution with the RB20 and Z32 afm was at the higher airflow levels. However, there is a very slight difference in the start of where x amount of air begins to read y volts, I put this down to the z32 coming from a 3ltr hence it does not need the lower airflow resolution as the larger motor never sucks so little air. In other words, I don't think your setup would work well for low rpm potting around, fuel economy and light throttle or even full throttle @ low rpm (not sucking much air) may suffer. I really have no idea but thats what logic tells me. In my web travels I remember coming across a little trinket that converts a MAP signal to an AFM signal for the ecu to understand. Maybe worth a look in to.

Thats exactly my line of thought, however, is this method really definitely true when determining low to moderate load levels? After all the goal is still the same, obtain as much power/torque as you can from x air and y fuel? Please say yes so I can go out for a drive and dial in 40+ degree's ign timing lol. For example, on idle the car won't knock it will simply run rough as it struggles to spin over. Maybe in this instance slight load would have it detonation, I don't know. The RB30DET really doesn't have any problems accelerating from 1500rpm in a high gear, to get the ign. timing optimal at this point would obviously improve fuel economy. The RB20 pfc map at these moderate load points are only running 16-25degree's of ign. timing. The reason I ask is I've played. I admit it, I'm a fiddler. I jammed the wastegate right open and cranked the ignition timing in to it. At low engine speeds with full throttle load it is still able to handle 37degree's advance without any knock, well I can't hear knock and the pfc knock sensor is not showing any. MAYBE?!?!?!? the lowish comp ratio will allow it to take even more than 37degree's. I don't want to push in to it any more than 37degree's with a high low or moderate load as I fear it may damage something, UNTIL I understand how a motor responds to too much ign timing at low/moderate loads. Is it possible to not detonate at low engine speeds yet still damage the motor due to it working against its self. I do change back to the origional map after my fiddlings, I wouldn't want any long term damage caused by driving around hundreds of kays running way to high ign timing. UNLESS this is the PowerFC's 'conservative' ign. I've heard you speak of previously. I do remember watching the rb20det's stock ecu run 28degree's ign timing as it was on boost, knock was detected and timing pulled to 8 degree's. Would it be correct to assume the stock ecu's run much more low/mid load ign. timing? The RB20det stock ecu DID feel like the car had more torque off boost and got on to boost a little quicker/easier, the pfc felt noticeably flatter. I need a rolling road in my shed. I would love to play and fiddle to fully understand 'cause' and 'effect'. :confused: EDIT: Any one care to post their Ign map? Preferably a fully worked over map not just a slightly modifed WOT map.

First.. Have a look at your exhaust. Make sure its flowing well. The RB30DET on 12psi with peak torque at ~2000rpm was only able to take 17degree's. Apparently the motor has an 8.2-8.3:1 comp ratio, my calcs give higher comp but who knows. Through the mid it drops down to 16degree's then picks back up to 17degree's by 5000rpm. It was really only a rough tune with a small restrictive hotside with N/A cams that have a little more overlap than T cams. The rb20's stock map runs around 19-20degree's through the WOT load points. What interests me is the low/mid load ignition curve, how a longer stroke affects the ign. timing. I'm still running around with the rb20's low/mid load ignition curve. How does one determine how to set this up on a dyno? I would think its impossible to get it right. Or does the EGT tell a story with low/mid loads? If only I could grab hold of a VG30DET's low/mid load ign. curve as they run an almost identical bore, stroke & comp combo. or possibly an early SR20det ign curve.. Would be interestering to compare.

Whats the little pic after it states to change gear?? Is it a little dude or a pic of a car laying some twin rubber?

Checking out the gearing of the LS2... If only first gear was a little shorter second gear would have some time to do real damage.

Yours would spank it Roy. Maybe not through first but definitely through second. Its definitely the RB20, RB30 doesn't rev like that. It was taken 10,000km's before I pulled the motor out, still had excellent compression with no oil in the intake pipes, the inlet ports were still clean with no muck coating. I noticed it looked as if the inlet ports had a coating of some sorts. Not so much shinny silver but a whiteish rough colour. Didn't really look like alloy. Here's a little cleaner launch. Roughly 5.5secs to 100 also.

Probably a $100 WOT tune like mine. We have a tuning shop here in SA that has the PFC software. I'll be making sure they do not lock the maps. I'm even going to go as far as bringing along my trust USB drive and 'tell' them to copy a set of the maps to it.

Vuster, Here's a little vid of an R32 GTST Rb20DET running 1bar, 3" turbo back exhaust & FMIC. Stock ECU, Stock Airbox & filter it made 164rwkw. The launch isn't the best as it bogs down a little, best 0-100 I was able to achieve was 5.2secs with a 4000rpm launch & clutch slip. Often than not it was around the 5.5secs, if it wheel spun up around the 6sec mark. Compared to the 6ltr the RB20DET sounds a little Asmatic. Damn LS2 6500rpm, thats pretty damn nice rev's. The R32 previously had a little play with a 280kw 6speed Clubsport rolling from around 30km/h, the LS1 was slightly quicker around the 60km/h mark however the R32's mid range through second and third was a tinny tinny quicker, by the time 4th was selected around 150km/h the LS1 was sitting level with the rear bumper. None the less its a pretty damn good effort from such a mildly modified R32. I can sympathise with you with regards to the off the line acceleration. I ditched the Rb20DET for this reason and dropped in a RB30DET that is much much better, stock turbo it currently makes 100rwkw at 2000rpm but runs out of legs by 5000rpm. I'm a V8 bogan at heart, love the sound and previously owned a VS 5ltr 5speed that had full suspension, mild mods that brought the power up to around 220kw at the flywheel. My conclusion, in a not so perfect world the LS2 would 9 times out of 10 have it over the mild R32 or R33. Its obvious in how easy the LS2 is to get off the line clean compared to the vid of the R32.