nfi
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Posts posted by nfi
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Apart from the fact your putting 20 inch tempe rims on a GTR... I think what they are trying to say is your missing the point... Suspension is much more than just the springs... If you just put lowered springs on it the standard shocks will be out its designed window and they also aren't valved for the heavier spring...
So basically with lowered springs and 20in rims you have made your car slower in every way than the a stock one....
People don't put coilovers in so they can go up and down, they put them in so the spring is matched to the shock absorber and its designed to work together so the car handles better....
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exactly, i was asking how they were still at off the shefl prices if they were revalved?
Valid point- I don't know the answer. I think revalving cost him bugger all with the amount of work business he was sourcing through bilstein.
I had a detailed discussion about it with him and a few other cars at the time. I also know the guy that actually builds/designs shock absorbers at heasemans who is also a member of NSCC. Jono was the suspension engineer of the autosalon drift car. He speaks very highly of Gary. He also built my coilovers- I just purchased them through Gary.
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so he revalved the R33 ones? if so how were they still at off the shelf prices?
Yeah they were. I think they were still off the shelf price or even slightly cheaper than what heasemans were charging at the time- not 100% sure though I as didn't buy a set of the 33's to know the price difference.
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Regarding SK not changing the valving... yes and no...
Yes most of the shocks in a simple spring and shock combo were off the shelf but there was quite a few models he had to revalve... eg. R33 gtst rear shocks were far to stiff off the shelf for sufficient squat.
As people have said- if you want bilsteins just go to heasemans. They built all SK's setups to his specs so obviously know them so you can just ask (where they were different to off the shelf).
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SK made a lot of claims during his time here...many of which were proven by myself and others on here to be total fiction. This is why he no longer shows his face here in SAU but has moved on to easier 'fodder' on other forums. Speak to Heasmans about what you require or ask some of the experienced suspension modifiers on here of what you require.
Keen to see your proof of disproving his theories/claims.
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Think the guys didn't have a chance to put in a 4wd controller so it was running standard torque split. Not great for track times but made it look like a LOT of fun to drive ripping it very sideways while accelerating coming onto the straight.
Well done though Russ and Mark. Car looked great, looked like fun to drive and it still worked at the end of the day- a decent feat for its first competitive outing.
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Awesome effort. That curve is impressive.
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All the power is in the ignition map which the safc can't do... This is in addition to your stock ecu having a hissy fit because its not running/responding the way its supposed to.
The car will be MUCH nicer to drive with a proper ECU and you won't have all these dumb issues.
Make sure you go to a proper tuner as well.
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^^ Not sure how my post ended up being delayed at least 5 hours after posting before showing up?!?
Pleased to hear Gary called...
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I tried to warn the forum about this guy about a year ago...only to cop a warning from mods.
He's entered at Superlap...maybe front him there...although last year he also entered and was a no-show.
Thats a harsh... He has been very good to a lot of people and earnt the reputation (including me). He is extremely knowledgeable as well.
Rowstar:
The reason you can't get hold of him is he sold superior suspension for an offer he couldn't refuse.
I would contact superior suspension (assuming you paid your money into the business account) to give you your suspension given you have receipt of payment (bank statement).
Alternatively, if your still stuck send me a PM.
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Wrong way round- pull the injector correction %'s back so that the computer puts less fuel (opens injector for a smaller period of time) to make up for the fact that your injectors are bigger.
I didn't know a gtr computer would work with a gtst. I would be surprised it hear it did. Not only is the mapping requirements massively different but your car has variable cam timing which the gtr PFC won't support as rb26's don't have VCT.
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Good show man
And cheers for sharing, the more people in the car scene looking out for the good of the many instead of their own pride - the better things will get. I had never been too sure about the R34 turbos, always under the impression they were effectively GT25Rs. On that topic I think Nissan have a few "specials", the (IHI based I think?) R33/R34 "GTSt" turbos are ball bearing and ceramic turbine/nylon compressor which is an interesting mix and I am still trying to ascertain whether facelift S14/S15 SR20DET turbos have a ceramic turbine. WHY DID THEY DO IT?
S15 turbos are without a doubt steel wheel on both the turbine and compressor. (I used to have one an s15)
R33gtst are ceramic turbine (turbine steel or ceramic?)
R34gtt are ceramic turbine, nylon compressor.
Mate, I feel for you I understand how frustrating it is when you get told something by the apparent expert only to find out is wrong. That is the problem I have with the automotive industry- its very difficult to find anyone you can trust. Hence I have just learnt myself by seeing/doing/watching things rather than listening to people. Well done for persisting though.
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"A circuit car for the track"
lol
On a more serious note, by what you've written I am guessing you haven't been to the track many times.
I would suggest going to the track lots of times and slowly modding the car in the process so its right for you...
End goal for a track car- make it as light as possible which will mean you need smaller brakes and less power to go fast than keeping it full weight. You will also chew through less R compound tyres which are very expensive.
Mods: Wide wheels with good R comp tyres, I would then probably stick a hks2835/garrett 3071R t3 with cams and supporting mods and get some proper suspension, swaybars, camber/toe/castor rods and put a good set of pads and then just keep winding in more boost until you have enough power.
I would do the suspension and brake modifications first before adding any more power at all. Its pretty hard to learn in a car that is too much better/faster than your ability. (evo exempted
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Johnny: Just for your reference stock r33 and r32 gtr turbos also had ceramic turbine wheels. They did this for response for the average joe blow given they aren't exactly a responsive motor below 4000rpm. They just refined the turbos and they slowly got larger in newer models.
3lit3 32: PM wrxhoon, he has pictures of his stock turbos from his v-spec2 and they were ceramic. Maybe he can give you a part number to check. He will also know how to check if they are ceramic too.
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Hear your pain... Clearly coming from the horses mouth but I still don't believe it only because I have seen it with my own eyes.
Maybe like ADM s15's (some came with ball bearing and some came with plain bearing turbos) there is some odd balls (like your example) with steel wheels.
I don't get it.
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To add to that. I'm about to remove the dump pipe to put a multimeter on the wheel.
**EDIT** which is a stupid idea because I just found out they are inconel. lol.
I have run a scribe over the blade, though, and it is shiny underneath.
I rang Garrett back with my concern of possibly not being steel wheel and they confirmed again that it is 150% steel wheeled and that the inconel is non-magnetic and I will not get a resistance across it.
I hope this information is useful to everyone.
Also, if you have a different part number on your R34 turbo, then PM me the number and I will have it checked. Don't use the 144 number, use the 702 number as this is how Garrett number them.
You are being informed by idiots... TRUST ME I have seen it with my own eyes and so have others that they are ceramic on the exhaust side (not inlet). The way it destroys your motor is when the turbine wheels flies apart your instant reaction is to back off since it makes a bad noise and creates a bit of vacuum inconjunction with a turbine blade that has just literally disintegrated at 100,000rpm. The result is the bits go back into the bore and scratch the hell out your bore.
We are only saying this so you don't end up getting punished with an engine rebuild because you have been told the wrong thing. You can choose not to believe us if you want- your call.
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you really shouldnt be offering 45 for a car like this. If i were you i wouldnt sell lower than 50k
you can buy an import r34 gtr for 45k or less and i can assure you it will be a pig.
i say let them buy a pig. Dont budge. Your car looks the goods
Your right, however your forgetting we are in a fast declining economy. That affects everyone and the price of normally appreciating assets like houses, let alone depreciating assets like cars.
The trouble is finding any buyers in this sort of market. The result is more supply than demand which creates competition amongst sellers driving the price down. Unfortunately, I know this first hand.
Its a double edged sword... you either sell now and wait for a buyer or hold out to the economy recovers which is minimum 18 months away but when this happens the aus dollar will also likely recover against the yen meaning r34gtr's will be the bargain of the century. That said when that does occur it will likely slightly drive the price up of r34 gtrs in japan as they have dropped significantly with the reduced demand. Although they are never going to even be what they were 12 months ago given they're getting older. They obviously feel the laws of supply, demand and depreciation as well.
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All sorted and injectors sold.
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As per topic- bringing my car back to standard and looking for some s2 injectors (s1 may well be exactly the same?). Have Nismo 555cc's if somebody is interested in swapping with cash my way.
The nismo's have only travelled 20,000kms.
Price
Nismo's on their own: $650
Nismo's if stock injectors provided: $500
If somebody is interested in just providing the stock injectors then please PM the price you're after.
I know this is technically in the wrong section as I am looking for stock injectors but given I am selling the Nismo's here I think its justified as this may save someone money as they don't need their stock injectors once Nismo's are installed.
Contact details: 0407 766 805 or via PM.
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DO NOT get a microtech... They are sh*t... THe car will never run properly. AFM's are VERY good for a street driven car. When tuning with one you can make it drive much nicer. You have no need to remove the afm particulary with the little power you have.
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Royal Purple is very good oil.. on par with the Motul. I run the RP10/40 in my forged engine no worries. As already said though, your engine builder should know what oil best suits your application.
Actually the Royal purple is a great oil but more on par with motul 8100. 300v is a clear step up in terms of ester content. Hence it is a lot more expensive.
i have just rebuilt my engine with acl 87mm pistons, tomei cams etcwhat first oil should i put threw the motor? motul 10w40 synthetic? is this right?
Woah definitely not... Check with your engine builder but chances are he is going to tell you to run a mineral oil. Reason being is that he wants the rings to bed in. This won't happen very well with a fully synthetic oil and the engine will burn oil badly for the rest of its life.
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They will be sunken into the guards a fair bit. I would suggest a +12 at the very minimum which will space them out even further from the brakes and fill the guards better. I still think they even look a bit sunken and personally would go for a 10.5 +12-15. They will be near flush with the guards on a r33gtr.
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You might want to fix up the price... $340k is a fair bit for an r33 gtr
Same with klms- 300k kms is pretty high...!
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What a 'tard - sorry about that, that's what I meant. with the 10.5" being slightly wider than mine he might need more positive offset.
What tyre width would you recommend ? For a 10", 265? 275?
Easily done...!
275 would sit really nicely on a 10.5 inch rim. 265 would be slightly stretched.
And cheers for sharing, the more people in the car scene looking out for the good of the many instead of their own pride - the better things will get. I had never been too sure about the R34 turbos, always under the impression they were effectively GT25Rs. 
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Gtr R35
in New South Wales
Posted
r35 GTR only had approval to import as a brand new car.. which means the window is now closed permanently.. With the yen the way it is the aussie ones are cheaper anyway.