nfi
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Posts posted by nfi
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I think this guy gives a pretty fair, reasonable and unbiased view of Lucas pads:
http://soarer.ace.net.au/lucas_trw.html
And a Soarer isn't exactly the light car. Maybe they're not suitable for your particular application, but for 99% of people Lucas are more than enough for daily and light track duties. Definitely a far better pad than a Bendix Ultimate, nothing I see posted on an internet forum will ever change my opinion of that...
Further to SiksII's post....
"I ended up using two feet on the brake pedal"
ROFL!!! Clearly everyone can see this is the definition of 'brake fade'!!!
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hmmm
correct me if im wrong, but if my max torque figure is starting at 3800rpm wouldnt that mean that they are running at full boost?
robbie
Absolutely... I would suggest the scaling on the dyno graph is incorrect or the ramp speed of the dyno was set very slow.
Next time you drive the car watch the tacho in say 3rd gear when you can actually watch the transition and see when it hits full boost and when it starts really going. That will be the point its actually making peak torque.
Wherever peak torque is, you'll have bucket loads of pull. I would be very surprised if -5's were pulling at 3800rpm.
Let me know when you have a chance to feel on the road where it actually picks up.
Remember on the dyno you can create excessive load that you would never see on the road making boost ramp up far quicker than it could on the road.
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The 2860-7's are more responsive than the 2860-5's yeah? Aren't the 7's a smaller turbo?
I'd like to see a bar of boost by mid three's... Who know's if I'll get it lol.
Yep the -7's are smaller. Hence they come on boost earlier but make less than the -5's in the top end.
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Sounds good donkey.
For those interested this has been my experience on r33 gtr's.
Standard turbos are all in by ~3500rpm
GTSS- ~3700rpm
2860-7 ~4000rpm
2860-5 ~4600rpm
These figures are when the car starts really moving, not just when full boost is just reached as there is usually a slight delay.
Some people may have made them slightly more responsive with tuning.
Anyone managed to better these? If so, with what supporting mods/cam timing etc?
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They look familar... Can I guess you bought them from a guy in qld? If so then I think you will find they are about 14kg/mm.
You can just get some lighter spring rates and have them revalved to suit providing the internals are still in good nick.
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I assume with 10.5" you might well need the +12 over the +15 I suppose to 'tuck' the wheel in closer to the well, as opposed to +15 being more ideal on 10" perhaps
Mate let us all know how you go, and I'll do likewise when my rims arrive (can't wait, it's been months since ordering them, they're being manufactured and then shipped here)...
Matt
You are getting the numbers round the wrong way! The lower the offset the more they stick out. The wider the rim the more they stick out so the higher the offset for them to sit at the same point relative to the guard.
18x10.5 +15 is perfect on an r33gtr.
Your 18x10 +12 will sit really nicely I think.
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Havnt used any other pads but these were excellent they are rated to 650 degrees I did have some brake fade when I fist put them in with new rotors but then changed the brake fluid and found that was a massive help infact totally different worked so much better no brake fade but I think that braided lines will also make a big difference as well to peddle feel .....
To help put in context, what times are you doing round Mallala?
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Of those people that have used cams what have you found with 300-330akw? I read that some of the guys in VIC actually went back to stock while still making decent power. Its hard to comprehend cams with similar duration and only more lift not helping the drivability but I am keen to hear from those that have actually done/been through it.
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http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm
r32 N1's are rubbish compared to the newer 33 N1's and even better the 34n1's. Link above will show you the size difference between all the common gtr twins.
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Any news Dazmo? This looks like it will be a nicely set up car when its complete.
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I thought all police looked for in Aus was for DOT approval. Thats why we can't use Neova's in Aus even though they are a great street tyre- no DOT approval. At least thats my understanding.
If there is indicators and the tread depth is above it, and the tyres are DOT approved, from my understanding the cops have to accept it.
Re Hoosiers- I am guessing the reason they had to put 'race use only' on them is because the sidewalls are so soft they may roll off the rims if you had to swerve hard on them...
The kumho's in questions certaintly don't have that problem, however, they may have some slight issues in the wet.
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I just got a quote from these guys http://www.revzone.com.au for that exact clutch. Comes with flywheel etc. $1280 for the full kit.
That will be for the single plate not the twin plate.
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I would first look at getting the swaybars as you can then change the characteristics of the chassis and they will make the biggest difference as they will also reduce body roll.
When money permits I would go as wide as you can with wheels ie. 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.
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I presume you're not talking about brokers, because we still make our broker's fee whether someone pays $40K or $80K for a GT-R.
If I wasn't worried about the quality of the cars I was sending to my customers, I'd be sending in 120,000km + R34 GT-R shitboxes for mid-high $30Ks all week long. The point is, if you're actually buying an R34 GT-R as a car to own and drive rather than something to make a profit on, then spending less than 3 million FOB in Japan is false economy, in my opinion. What's the point in spending a few thousand dollars less on the car itself only to end up spending an extra $5K just keeping the thing on the road?
There are a number of cars that are fast becoming cheaper to buy in Australia than they are to import from Japan - anyone tried buying a Soarer lately? Yet I still get enquiries about certain models, where people actually want to import something new to Oz and pay the extra money. Some people just prefer it that way.
Part of the reason low-km V Spec II Nurs, for example, will hold their value is because if prices keep going the way they are, the owners will be able to sell them back to Japan in a few years time and make more than they would selling locally, a bit like old Zeds have been going back their in their droves in recent years. Check how hard it is to buy one here these days, and now you'll understand why.
I'm interested that you say above $3m is enough to get an ok 34. Most importers seem to quote about 10k on a car that expensive to have on the road, so I would assume that, that would still suggest 45k is enough to get an ok one.
A friend of mine is picking his r34 gtr today that he imported himself. Its a 99 v-spec with ~80k bayside blue, he claims its in good condition and is a perfectionist and it cost him just under 3m yen. I recognise this is not the norm though.
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Hi, most of the Rays wheels seem to be 19x9.5 or 19x10.5
The 10.5 inch wide ones are NOT street legal in NSW (more than 1 inch wicder than stock wheel)
So, do the 9.5 inch ones sit wide enough, ie: flush with the guard or do they sit too far in? Can you get an offset to sit wide enough in 9.5 inch?
Thanks
I wouldn't worry about legality and rim width. Technically 19x9.5 +12 aren't legal either because they increase the track (outer measurement from the edge of the two rear tyres). You are definitely not likely to get busted for either because its too difficult for cops to remember and also its not 'top of mind' when defecting someone.
The only way to be legal is to have sunken battle ship offset which looks really crap (like stock) and 1inch wider and bigger rims. In which case you will look like you bought your rims from tempe!
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This is a clean car I looked at it, when owned by the previous owner.
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The knocking noise I would put money on it being lifter noise in the head which goes away once the hydralic lifters pump up and the oil thins a little.
The smoke can be a worry. If its blue or white then its a sign of either the turbo seals, valve stems or headgasket being on its way out. If its black or brown then its just fuel.
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I think you will find that they are a K20 front wheel drive engine and gearbox as found in Integra and Civic Type R's.
Cheers
Gary
That would be it
Thanks Gary.Especially given the standard engine orientation (east west).
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All three Elise models on the Lotus website (Elise S, Elise R and Elise SC) are specced with 1.8L engines...
I saw at lotus that sounds similar to this at wakefield late last year. It had an s2000 motor supercharged.
Do they qualify for superlap given they have had a transplant?
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FWIW
Revving an rb25 to 9krpm is not a good idea... It will screw your head (bend a valve due to valve float) and wear out your rings... The engine just isn't designed to rev that hard.
Also, if you still have the stock turbo the car would be faster if you actually changed gear at the redline because the power curve will peak at about 6000rpm and well and truly tapering off at 7krpm let alone 9krpm.
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FWIW- The rims in your first post are different to the ones in the picture on the car. The ones at the top are 57f while the second pic on the car are 57F pro's.
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There are a few journalists in the states criticizing the new GTR as lacking in character because its just too easy to drive fast around a circuit. They complain that all the electronics is taking the fun and scariness out of driving. I think it's just a load of bull. I mean C'mon, do these dim wits even don't know that the GTR actually has traction control and stability control switches? If they do, then they would know that if you turn the TC an SC off, then the car would be a hell of a lot scarier to drive and hence have more 'character'?
Really, i can't see the logic in people who say that this car or that car has a soul. For gods sake, its just a machine - how can it have a soul? The only explanation is that these people are just making up excuses for the car's imperfection by saying that it has soul. The GTR has no soul because- it's Perfect.
Watch every season of top gear and you will understand the 'soul' a car can or cannot have. Imagine, having driven all the supercars the world has produced. Then try to imagine the varying engine notes, handling characteristics, differences in 'feel', turn in, power delivery, torque delivery, brakes in addition to the asthetics. Any these factors can completely change your perception of a car. With supercars it is even more extreme because the whole car is so extreme and often compromised.
When you have driven all the best super cars you will start to want more... the x factor. Sort of like how some women all the guys want. There is nothing you can put your finger on as to why... She might not even be the prettiest girl around. They just have an appeal.
For cars that is the engine note, the way you sit, the way the power is delivered, how the car makes you feel, what it looks like. These factors all give it a 'soul'.
The new GTR I have only sat in and while I would really like one it is currently a bit too refined which causes it to lack soul. Think about a heavily modified GTR vs a standard one. The modified one: The engine note, the look, the lumpy idle, the presence all give it soul. The standard one: All quiet, refined, well behaved and comfortable.
I think that sums it up. If you don't get it now your probably not going to get it.
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White smoke= burning coolant/water
Blue smoke= burning oil
Brown/black smoke= running rich
btw 12:1 I wouldn't call on the rich side. 12.5:1 is the ideal mixture for power and leaves no headroom for a bad batch of fuel or a sticky injector. I prefer to run high 11's. Lose a couple of kw and save the bottom end while still having an engine that is efficient.
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For what its worth, r34 gtr suspension should not really be fitted to r33 gtr's even though it fits. The valving is very different due to the weight, wheelbase and track differences...
Thanks Gary.
Too Hard
in Suspension, braking and tyres
Posted
springs will cost around 300 for two to get eibachs.
make sure you get the shocks revalved to suit or it will still be horrible and either under but more likely overdamped.