d-ranged

Depends what condition, how many miles etc.

BUMP! Surely someone has one for sale?

I have managed to get the brakes on properly. There was a metal nipple that was touching the mounting bracket a tiny bit which was stopping it from sitting flat against the hub. It was quite hard to see that it was touching as it was so minmal but it kept catching my eye and I had a feeling it was because of that. I ground it down and refit the mounts, disk and calipers and they all line up perfectly!

Bump!

Thanks for the replies guys I will have another look tomorrow and give the mounting surfaces a good clean up.

OK thanks for that mate. I dont drive the car much so wear is not a huge issue, it probably does about 1000 miles a year. Although i would like it to be fitted correctly really! Yeah, the shims will just push the caliper even closer to the pad. I am sure all mounting surfaces are flat, I will check again tomorrow though. I am in talks with the company i bought them from who are talking to the factory that make them so will see what they say. I cant really send them back though, i have sold my brembos

Yeah the pistons are all the way in, the whole kit is brand new. I also had a look at the passenger side and that is pretty similar. I have just been trying to get it straight for the last 4 hours with no luck. I have tried swapping the brackets. I have tried fitting the brackets in every way possible, you can only bolt the calipers with them one way which is the original way i put them on. They only need to move over a tiny bit. I really don't know what else to do now.

Left pad is closest to disk.

I am in the middle of fitting my D2 6 pots to the front of my 33 GTR. I have the drivers side on, no problem. Passenger side, i have put the disk on, held it on with wheel nuts then fitted the caliper. The disk is extremely close to the inside brake pad. When i spin the disk it spins freely until a certain point then gets stiff. I can still push it through by hand with a little bit of force then it loosens up again. Is it going to be OK like this? If i drive it will it just wear the pad enough to stop it from rubbing? I really don't know what else to do. The washers that come with it to space it are no good as they just push the pad even closer to the rotor. Any ideas?

I'm after a forged RB30. Does anyone have one for sale? I am in the UK so must be able to post overseas.

Wired it up and set it to Test(PWM) and it works. Thanks for all the help guys!!

Where can i do that on the software? What section it under? Auxilary Output??

Yeah they are both black, just wanted to double check. Thanks for the help mate :-)

So it doesnt matter which wire goes where?

I am fitting a MAC boost solenoid to my car and was told i can use the standard solenoid wiring, is that true? If so, what colour wire goes to what on the MAC valve from the original loom? What setting do i turn on in the Link software to check its working etc??

Thanks for the info guys, i will stick with stock then

Its a street car wont ever be dragged or tracked. I wont be revving it more than 7500-7800. It hasnt been mapped with the turbo yet so i dont know what sort of boost it would come in on. I dont really know much about cams so just need some help and advice.

need some cams to match my turbo which is a Precision 6266 Dual Ball Bearing. I would like to gain some low down torque. Is 264/272 a good setup for this? If so that's what i would be looking for but other options welcome.

I ended up using a gas soldering irons blow torch function and melted the solder and quickly undid the screws.

I have taken the top and bottom lids off and now underneath the ecu there is about 6 (3 each side) silver nipple looking things which look like they may have screws underneath them but they are glued on. I tried pulling one off but didnt want to damage the ECU. How do you remove the R33 GTR ECU from the case?

Yes i will be using the map sensor. So how do i set the Link to recognise them through those wires? Thanks so much mate, really appreciate it! Merry Christmas!

No i don't have the expansion harness. So I can wire in the wideband sensor to tthe 29 on the ecu and egt to 55? Or do you mean the actual wire from the plug?

I need to wire in my PLX Devices SM-EGT and SM-AFR into my Link G4. I THINK you need to wire them into the ECU wiring loom and set the link to recognise them but i'm not sure and a bit of a twat when it comes to this stuff. Could someone have a look at theses manuals for me and let me know which wires i need to cut and wire the sensor into please? SM-AFR (Wideband) - http://www.plxdevices.com/support/manuals/SM-AFRGen2UsersGuide.pdf SM-EGT (Exhaust Temp) - http://www.plxdevices.com/support/manuals/SM-EGTUsersGuide.pdf ECU Wiring Diagram - http://img.docstoccdn.com/thumb/orig/101652534.png From that diagram there is obviously two pinouts for the two lamdas but i only need one i think, but which one??? I cant see anywhere that the EGT would wire into though? Really appreciate any help

I just tried moving the car out the garage and it cut out. Changed the ignition and fueling settings to the ones that come with the base map and the car started idling alot nicer but when i rev it, it miss fires pretty bad now. Can someone please send me a base map so i can get the car out the garage so i can get the car taken to the farbricators??? Someone must have one

Does anyone know the right injector settings for stock 444cc injectors for a Link G4?