WHITEBEAST
-
Posts
123 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by WHITEBEAST
-
-
Anyone got any information for me? Please check my blog entry.
Thanks.
Whitebeast.
P.S Anyone know if there gonna be a skyline meet soon at Winton Raceway?
-
Might be intrested, if your up for bargaining. I'll give ya $700 tops if I bring my car (R32 GTR) up from Bendigo and plug it in, if she works straight away. No problems. Ring me 0438 55 66 42.
-
if you search the forced induction section lots of this has been covered
imo the 2860 -5 are great turbos , good mixture of power and response . possibly a little small to take advantage of a full rebuilt but its there for later if you need more
forget the wolf and get a power fc djetro for cheaper and easier to install and tune
Suppose to be capable of over 25 PSI.
I'll do a search on power fc djetro, see what I can find.
Thankyou.
WHITEBEAST
-
Hi, it is a slow process but it looks like it going to cost me about $12,000+ for this motor rebuild + extras.
I had a look at the no.1 piston when they got the motor apart and had cracked ring landing. Scored the bore, hopefully machinable to 20 thou, cause from old motor, or maybe over boosting it without tuning. (My bad). Either way it was needing a rebuild in time to come.
I found I had a nismo single spring button clutch in the car, so just going to reco that. - $800+
The type of pistons that I'm going to use are called Arie's/Aeries something like that. (Forged Pistons)
The turbos I'm going to use are called 2830 -5 twins I think. Can anyone tell me anything about them?
And the P.F.C I was thinking about using is called WOLF. Does anyone know of these computers?
Thankyou
WHITEBEAST
-
Hi, it is a slow process but it looks like it going to cost me about $12,000+ for this motor rebuild + extras.
I had a look at the no.1 piston when they got the motor apart and had cracked ring landing. Scored the bore, hopefully machinable to 20 thou, cause from old motor, or more my over boosting it without tunning. (My bad). Either way it was needing a rebuild in time.
I found I had a nismo single spring button clutch in the car, so just going to reco that. - $800+
The type of pistons that im going to use are called airies/earies something like that. (Forged Pistons)
The turbos that I am looking at are 2830 -5 twins. Can anyone tell me more about them?
The P.F.C I was thinking of using was a WOLF. Anyone using one?
-
Who is doing the motor building for you?
Also, no point with sump baffles if you are on a budget.
Circuit GTR's can use the stock sump (running RE55's/350rwkw), then for street you certainly dont need them.
As for motor running in, bed it on the dyno and thats it. Tune it up.
Thats all there is to it really.
EAS Performance is doing the work (Melbourne).
-
Hi all, anyone recommend a type of clutch for my R32 GTR to go with my rebuild? Was going to get a $1200 cushioned button clutch.
-
Thanks all for your comments, regarding this rebuild.
I’m working fulltime so it is hard to find time for information research.
In regards to Ron’s question “what I will be using my car for”.
It’s just my greatest toy. I use it for trips and daily driving since I have owned it, But the main objective is to be able to take it around Winton Raceway for a few laps (It should be able to do this now). I like to drive it hard because that is what the RB26 was built for, not looking forward to running the motor in.
In regards to other questions, I can’t remember the name of the turbos that he told me, but I know there twins, equivalent to the HKS twins, capable of 25 PSI, around $2400 and were made in Australia. (I will post more information about them at the end of this week).
The pistons type were forged pistons, a little less quality and heavier than those of the CP Pistons (I will post more information about them at the end of this week).
The $6000 price was just for parts mentioned, labour was at least another $1000
As for doing water pump, sounds like a good idea. I’ll have a talk to the mechanic about it. I have always thought the oil-cooler set was a good idea, But was told it was of little value unless your track driving (racing) or drags. I was going to spend the extra cash on PFC, high quality coils, and injectors, and maybe a new think intercooler. Oh yeah and he priced me a new cushioned button clutch for $1200
Any ideas on what sort of clutch I should use?
And does anyone know if should just use the CP pistons which I think he quoted me about $1500 ($250 more) with or without rings, without I think was the price
-
Hi, if you could contact me in regards to those R32 GTR clear indicators, I will happily buy them if they are in good condition,
Thankyou
WHITEBEAST
(03)54 467 104
0438 55 66 42
-
Hello all, I have just join your forum in interest of looking for any information on engine rebuilding and working of my recently blown up GTR, I blew a hole in my no.1 piston my RB26. I only bought this car from a dealer about 11 months ago, and have spent that much money on my car it is starting to cripple me slowly (but that is the price of owning a GTR.) I found this car after looking for a Nissan Skyline for around 3 months, I was thinking of buying a R34 GTS-T '99 model. That was until I drove a GTR, I couldn't believe the difference in power it had. And it was cheaper AU$23,000 complianced, registered, 88,000 km, though it was 8-9 years older. Now this car was stock apart from exhaust and air-pods. I also had my mechanic check over it and check the compression which was good, 165 PSI - 170 PSI all the way through. I was also thinking of getting the bores scope tested to make sure I didn’t have to replace a AU$5000 minimum motor but I never did.
After I bought the car I removed the valve from the turbo boost solenoid vacuum line, in turn creating more boost, around 12 PSI (1 BAR) boost. Which all sounds fun and easy to do and nearly doubles your boost from 7 PSI to 12 PSI (makes a difference). But... As I said before I’ve recently blown up my motor, was it because I over boosted it, NO! I’ve heard that the RB26 stock motor is good for 15 pound of boost, so it leaves me to think of possible ways it could of happened;
- Motor finally letting go since it was last driven hard in Japan, or;
- Timing was out and allow motor to ping, or;
- Bad batch of fuel in car (only used expensive high octane fuel).
Either way I am rebuilding my RB26 engine, it is currently at the mechanics having the motor removed, He has given me a price for a good rebuild which includes;
- Forged Racing Piston
- Racing Rods
- Studs
- Bearings
- Crank Collar
- N1 Oil Pump
- Tomei - Sump Baffle Kit
- Metal Gaskets
- Head Reco’d
- Machining & Blue Printing
AU$6000
He has also offered me the equivalent to the HKS twin turbo’s and there AU$1000 cheaper, which are suppose to be capable of 25 PSI of boost. Which means more money on things like intercooler, injectors and most importantly the aftermarket computer, which is just needed for a GTR skyline. He was telling me that he had just put a motor the same together, which recorded a dyno measurement of 350kw@wheels. If anyone has any information on engine rebuilding please post any comments even any Skyline enthusiast comments will be appreciated. Thankyou WHITEBEAST
My Rb26 Rebuilt, But..!
in General Maintenance
Posted
Hi all,
Been a while since I got my baby back now, done 2000 khms, got my clutch reco'd (twin plate nismo spring button spring), and been having issues with it since. Been on the path of many different things, still not coming up with options to resolve the matter fully. Apart from the obvious and spending a huge some of money on upgrading. Which is most probably path i'll have to choose.
First off all, the workshop that rebuilt it, has rushed the job out the door half done I believe. Found a vacuum line from a factory unit (unknown, mounted on the left hand side of upper fire wall) to the back of the intake manifold broken (reconnected now), boost control valve solenoid vacuum lines blocked off due to a faulty solenoid. I have reconnected the boost control vacuum lines with a tap control which is now allowing the waste gate actuator to work properly now I guess. The original one uses a diode built in the solenoid to protect the ECU, I am waiting on a N/C 12v vacuum control solenoid and I will wire in a diode. Does anyone know if that solenoid is N/C solenoid, I gathered it is. Does the original R32 GTR ECU require this signal for the ECU.
I’ve got a surging issue under light load to full load, from about 2000 rpm and then under no throttle that has slowly been growing from intermittent, to constant (maybe C.A.S, P.T.U, T.P.S, M.A.F's, or even the O2 sensor), been running very rich as well. I recently also replaced the original ignition coil packs with spitfire ones, gathering it may have also been a coils insulation breaking down when engine temperature warmed up. Which hasn't made much difference? Also thinking problem might be coming from air + fuel mixtures + timing. Since a have started reconnecting sensors and vacuum lines, the tuning seems to be getting worse. Was thinking about getting a 2nd hand Apexi Power FC 'PRO' drag use one, with ignition cut instead of fuel cut, has better launch control and rev limiter settings as well. Think it's easier to setup a M.A.P intake, If I ever decide to go this path with the Z32 pods or Apexi or another aftermarket setup.
Has anyone used this ECU for street use and track day use?
Has anyone used a AVC–R boost controller with this setup?
Has anyone used M.A.P's with these two setups?
Also have had bearing noise coming from cam belt cover I thought, which I was told it was from the over tensioning of a new belt he put on, told me it should go away. In fact the pulleys were stuffed, replaced the pulleys and it still hasn’t fixed the noise. Should of replaced belt as well damn it. It looks good though. Can’t understand how a mechanic could even warranty such a expensive motor with old pulleys that where about to seize. Oh well, never shall return to him. Been looking for other tuning specialist, not at a real expensive price.
I have contacted Dr Drift in Sunbury, Melbourne. As this is the side of Melbourne closest to me (Bendigo). He was telling me not to worry about upgrading my ECU just yet, till I really wanted to. I need new turbo’s now (oil seals in turbo’s are starting to let go. Found a little oil in intake side of turbo’s, after and MAF’s.
The turbo’s of choice are the Garrett GTSS 2830’s -7. Heard they are good for track use. Anyone using them?
Just reading about MAF’s and supposedly the RB25 MAF’s are a good upgrade for the GTR. Does anyone know about this?
Will be looking at getting upgraded fuel system very soon, what kind of flow rate would be good for street/track car running 25 PSI tops, using SARD injectors (600–700 hp)? Also wondering about what fuel line size I should use, thinking the standard lines should be good for the pressure? I was under the impression that I just needed to add another high flow fuel pump after a surge tank, is this correct?
I have got it booked in for a dyno run to make sure it isn’t leaning out at the best mechanic I could find in my home town/city, so I can drive it to Melbourne for further tuning, hopefully on the day it might fix some of issue (intermittent surging that has been getting worse). Don’t think it is the cam timing. Belt was that tight, it couldn’t slip and it didn’t have the issue when I first got the car back. So I am still thinking it is a sensor. Shall find it eventually…..,
any input on this topic would be much appreciated.
Thankyou.
WHITEBEAST.