Roy13

This is for you MattR and anyone elso who wants to look!

Oh yeah forgot to ask Clint is your clutch a bitch to hold down at the lights due to its huge clamping force.

Clint32 is your clutch the one RPM in adelade sell that has 100% more clamp, a full face plate with a purple pressure plate. As i now have narrowed the choice down to that one for $787 or $495 for the 6 PUC brass as PSI_GTSII has. Sounds like clints clutch is much nicer to use than a brassi. As i test drove a RX7 turbo today with a brass PUC, it was fine dont get me wrong but once on an incline and trying to go slow it just chirped the wheels and then shuddered due to the low revs!

So how is your clutch now after a bit of use as i have priced the daikin at $587 which is way more than you paid. I am considering building a RB25/30 thing it would still hold on?

Thanks guys think i'll go with the Extra heavy duty cusioned ceramic clutch i am a bit worried about the brass buttons drivability what do you think PSI_GTSII.

I love that RB 30 Guide as i'm a Motorcycle Mechanic obviously have a RB25det head, and also have a spare RB30 bottom end, a RB26dett water pump and a microtech so it looks like there will be an engine ready for my car when it lets go! Looks like i'll have to spend $750 and get the 100% increased clamping full faced ceramic heavy duty clutch!!! Then it will go straight on the RB25/30DET. The main price will be the Forged Pistons, except we deal for wisco at work!!!

The figures in the table are suposed to be Injector pulse width in Milliseconds! Do you to have an LT-12. They are the same as the maps just in Matrix form and there is also a Graph display but this is harder to read.

Hear is a timing curve i've been playing with, i posted the matrix table on the "Please someone post Microtech Matrix tables"

Roy That is some unreal feedback. These are some pics taken from the Unique Motorsports Site another option i was thinking of doing! Your's is the GTR clutch which is $695 and the other is the GTS-T which is $495 but both are 40% more clamping and 6 puc ceremetalic!

Ok next option has anyone bought a clutch from DIRECT CLUTCH PERFORMANCE Albion QLD they offer an exchange fibre kit that is suposed to handle 350rwhp?

On boost DON'T USE THESE FOR EXTENDED INTERVALS! Use at own risk till i can get more posts!

These are a starting point but not a Dyno tuned proven thing has anyone got the real thing?

Please can someone post a dyno tuned relativly STD car Matrix Tables and the other changes such as AIRMIN AIRMAX Timing map. Afew simple photos of the laptop screens could help set up an entire system! Just like Boostd did but easier!

Good idea if you have the money but second hand coils are only tops of $85. Or you could price ACA, C192 coils.

Joel you are a legend this is the clutch i was thinking of getting! I think you are right slipping isn't good for fibre's i've a R33 and i slip it at 2700rpm to launch and held it a bit too long at a set of lights 'the end'. What sort of rwkw's does you car have? Did you catch my reply in the "Still no one running LT-12's yet thread".

You could also use the Air fuel ratio kit from jaycar as an oxygen sensor also outputs 0 > 1 volt. And just invert the output so that the green end of the scale becomes the low knock end as it is now working in the oposite! Might have a chat to microtech as there tuning software has this display on the screen, i'd just read it in reverse! How sure are you that they ouput only 1volt.

I had a look in the jaycar site and couldn't find anything! Trouble it you have to get it to knock before it puts out a voltage, maybe a small ball pain hammer near the sensor.

How many of you guys can recomend me a clutch and were you got if from. Has anyone got fibre from RPM the $500 dolar job. Or a UAS 30% increased fibre for $420 or Diken sports $587.

Have you got the coil packs sorted! I too live in Newcastle and have had coil problems, i just got them from the toy shop at cardiff for $85 each. What mods has your car got done to it.

Sounds like it is working ok then as mine does the same!

This is good thinking if any one could find out the voltage spectrum they work on this could be easily done!

I'm pretty sure it may be pin 44 at least that may give you a start. Yes manuals have them as it is a indication for the computer to idle up when in gear and moving!

Not only that but its a Bosch widband sensor and i have a freind who will lend me the digial AFR screen!

Are you serious i didn't even know you could get genuine Skyline stuff. Has your RB 20 got a 3wire sensor because i'm pretty certain certain the 98 200sx sensor has the same plug as an R33 ( just going off pics in mags ) i'll have to go to a car yard and check it out BUT there sensors are $170 direct from Cessnock Nissan full price!

I think i can get the car to run very efficiently i just need something reasonable to start with so as the idle isn't driving me crazy. Having trouble with some of the screen 29 and 30 settings! I am going to purchase a $300 dollar wide ratio oxygen sensor but cannot do this and pay for dyno tuning. With this i will be able to lean off the mid range for people with std engines for day to day driving. Then they can swith back to a full power map for a track day. I would assume anyone dyno tuning would be aiming for sher performance throughout the rev range. Unless you pay for someone to do to maps for you BIG MONEY!