GT-RZ

IMO when you have the block sat there you may as well hone it and fit new rings. minimum. i wouldn't want to use a worn 200,000k+ RB30 for my build. But +1 on using the stock rods and pistons rather than aftermarket casties. You would be better off doing what bubba said too and fitting new bearings across the board while your at it.

Got any favorite for 26/30??? what would you choose if you were using it primarily for drift? turbo selection sends my head spinning around and round!! I think i need to buy one and be done with it!

^^ i'm fairly sure lewisengines do offer cnc porting for the 25 heads?

aha thank you very much! 'Divided T4 flanged turbine inlet with 3" v band (1.06 only)' i shall show them that!

Where are these available from? I still think the best fix would be a splined collar/gear.

Well apparently the gt35r with 1.06 TS housing is not available according to lewisengines? But maybe the GT30 with the 1.06 rear is, so i may be going down that road! ah well. really this car is going to be built for drift and maybe some circuit/hill climb work so response is paramount. will probably never see a drag strip. But if anyone knows of a place i can get the GT35 TS from let me know! cheers.

i'm satying tuned in for a while

Nice read. So you did mention that the gt35 with the 1.06 twin scroll rear housing is a good thing? Or do you think for my target power 350kw+ a GT30 with the 1.06 housing is a better option (is that available in twin scroll too?) i dido't quite understand if it's exactly the same rear housing that the gt35 uses. cheers

I think it was your post i was referring too. Wouldn't you be interested in not going back down that road? How big was the leak? making the pump work overtime you must have had a hole with your oil pouring out. just a thought.

ask him how much for a built rb30

i think the 1.06 twin scroll GT35 may be the goer then... i just need to find a lowmount split pulse manifold for rb26 now! did i see once that HKS made a cast one? that would be perfect!

Best way to block the stock BOV imo... beer can, coke can whatever you like... trace it out then cut it out with scissors and a hole punch and bolt it back up. perfect. I wouldn't bother with the holes in it though. have the BOV or don't have it.

i'm not buying an n1 that's for sure. another fail thread came up yesterday. seems too risky. Don't like the idea of 2k+ for a pump though!!! someone must make some special collars and pump gears

+1 on the written quote. the "oh that didn't include this, that and labor... is many garages favorite trick"

yea if i go gt35 i think i'll give the 1.0 rear housing a whirl and make the most of it. i'll have to look see what's available in twin scroll.

i would take the offer then, why not it's what you wanted and someone else does all the hard work for you.

turbo's or turbo? you do a pair for that price or each?

Higher boost would simply create higher intake speeds for the air, effectively making the mesh work even better. And really when you have such a strong vacuum pulling from the turbocharger what can't be made up in volume is made up in air speed. IMO i can't see the mesh creating any noticeable restriction especially when you have a filter of some kind beforehand.

i think we are getting too deep. it's not worth buying a new AFM if you hurt the mesh. But if you have one then don't take it off thinking you will benefit. Despite what some think the mesh is not there to keep fingers away. stupid thinking. It is most definitely there to distribute airflow so the sensor in the AFM has a mean reading and can adjust correctly. The mesh clearly does this by becoming an obstruction to the air so as the air collides with the mesh it changes direction inducing turbulent airflow effectively 'spreading' the air evenly inside. Like i said before though IMO a pod infront of the AFM will replicate the same thing to a degree so i would not be worried about not having it (and those who say i don't have a mesh, i bet you have a pod or filter in front? correct?) If you need an anology think of a high pressure water gun and you can fiddle with the nozzle, just by introducing different forms of resistance for the stream of water you can physically see the difference in sparay patterns. If there was no mesh in the intake (or filter) the air would most likely just travel the quickest path of least resistance which would most likely result in the AFM missing a great deal of air molecules resulting in a potentially lean running engine. You would be foolise to think otherwise, It's exactly the same reason why the intake ports of an engine head/ plenum should not be polished they should always have surface resistance to create turbulent airflow upon entry of the cylinders which in turn leads to easier ignition. sorry, i wabble on.

what do you guys think about this turbo with the .82 rear on a 26/30??? only want about 350rwkw and was originally going to go 35r but if this can provide the same and with more response i'm leaning towards it... twin scroll t04z is still in the mist though.

doh, why didn't nissan realise this! they need more people with your basic thinking on there development team. 'uneven' ariflow is a laymans term i used to describe laminar airflow.

I would think it needs the mesh. The mesh simply attempts to even the density of the air through the passage. With air going through uneven the AFM could quite easily misread how much volume of air is actually going through the intake and as a result apply the wrong fuel... That said, none of the above matters when on WOT. But anywhere before then you could and most likely would be running lean. plus i hate to make judgment without doing any tests myself but i cannot see how removing the mesh would allow more air the flow through really... if it's made it through the filter a mesh of this density is hardly going to do much damage.

the mesh is only really needed at the intake side. All it does it attempt to disrupt laminar airflow and create evenly distributed turbulent airflow which can be measured more accurately. Any mesh would in effect create the same pattern however you would want a mesh around the same grade as not to upset airflow to drastically. Interestingly enough i wonder if you have your pod connected directly to the AFM the mesh would even be needed as the pod's filter will indeed create a similar turbulent effect anyway. GL, be more careful next time!

that's pretty much what i got told too. to change the exhaust you gotta change the whole core which is pretty much the most expensive part of a turbo... so you may as well buy a new turbo.

Don't know where you are located but if you look at them parts it is simply carbon wrap (original plastic is under). can do it yourself. carbon sheet is about $70 a square meter then you need some resin and patience. Or you can buy the fibreglass sheeting that has the same weave as carbon and dye it black then use it (about $7 a square meter) it looks cool but unless you are going to make a mould and make a part completely out of carbon there is no actual benefit to be had apart from the looks...